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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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While I had one of my door cards off recently, I had just sprayed this area with Waxoyl.  I thought I was pretty clever doing so.  But after reading some of the extents some are going to, I wonder if I could have done more.  Fortunately, my doors do not look too rusty - just a hint of surface tinge.

Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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3 hours ago, autokunst said:

While I had one of my door cards off recently, I had just sprayed this area with Waxoyl.  I thought I was pretty clever doing so.  But after reading some of the extents some are going to, I wonder if I could have done more.  Fortunately, my doors do not look too rusty - just a hint of surface tinge.

From memory waxoyl will also seep in the seams, it may not have such a strong anti rust agent as others but it would still work.

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On 4/9/2023 at 2:04 PM, kbmb02 said:

 

He’s correct, easy fix.

 

I see that issue on 15-20% of the ‘02’s which come into the shop; the most common symptom is steering wheel not returning to center, difficult steering, and ‘grind-y’ feel sometimes. Similar issue/symptoms when using the IE fixed camber plates, because the bottom-side hardware rubs on the hat. -KB

@kbmb02 I have these exact symptoms and have IE fixed camber plates. The symptoms didn't start exactly when I put the camber plates in, but have gotten steadily worse, to the point now where the return-to-center issue is super annoying. And when I hit a bump or a crack in the pavement it centers up. 

 

Are you aware of any solve to avoid this but still use these fixed camber plates? Or is the solution simply "don't use IE fixed camber plates"? 

Edited by Dug Nichols

--

'73 Sahara numbers matching 

'74 Mintgrun sunroof car w/ oem Golde deflector, euro bumpers, 5spd, owned since 2002

 

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When I put my camber plates on they made an existing problem more obvious.

In my case I found that the upper spring perch (hat) was bent up.

I simply re-formed the perch to correct shape.

There was a post/topic on this I made years ago ( I doubt the pictures are still there though.)

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I don't give a fird gen, carbretted, alyoominiuhm, tickity boo!... wiff an ole in the boot!

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Replaced diff and trans fluid for the first time in a few years. Was actually fairly clean considering what came out of it last time. Also picked up a huge pile of OEM LS coils, wires, and pigtails at the junkyard for cheap cheap. Going to switch my current 4 post coil setup to coil per plug. I personally think it looks really cool too. Just, like, my opinion, man. The LS wire boots fit pretty good in the head holes too. But probably I will eventually switch the boots back to my current 2000-2004 ford focus boots. Those things are an absolute perfect fit.

76EF7E11-70BD-49C0-98B1-503A4D7FCE88.jpeg

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'74 Verona

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35 minutes ago, JohnS said:

Spring time is subframe rebuild time it seems.  I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel 🙂

 

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I just finished the rear sub-frame and now in the middle of the front.  Of course these will sit to the side while I attack the underside, the engine compartment and the body...  You know, every damn thing.  But these projects make me feel like I'm making progress.

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Thankfully I was able to glean a lot of information from the FAQ.  Here's how I installed the new front subframe bushings.  It was easy once I collected the parts.  Ace Hardware is my friend 😄  And use lots of silicone based lube that doesn't destroy the rubber bushing

 

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Edited by JohnS
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'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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The idler arms bushings were a little harder.  Again, I gleaned some sage advise from the FAQ.  My advise:

 

(1) separate the inner bearing from the outer blue plastic shell.

(2) shave/taper that blue plastic shell edge so that it fits within the opening.  Make sure the opening is clean and lubed.  Drive those tapered bushings in with a rubber mallet.

(3) Pull the inner bearing in using threaded rod, washers, bolts,

 

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'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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Not much.  But I did take delivery of this4ECD41A2-F34E-4082-ADBE-770ABE216DCB.thumb.jpeg.714de3d6488c4d8626692eb2ae61c706.jpeg

As faq’er labors of love go, DLacey’s WUR repair kit is right near the top.  Really looking forward to reworking my old regulator.  Hope others doing it will relate their stories of what to do and not to do.  First tip I have: use a circlip-type wrench to loosen the collar nut.  That metal is so soft that if you tap it loose with a punch you risk distorting the inner edge.

 

Other than that, I took delivery of my Eberspacher muffler from BMW NA yesterday.  Put it on the bench and smoke-tested it.  Result?

Leaks all along that seam (and a couple of others).  My local dealer has been great about this and is following up with BMW about getting me still another one, but I’m beginning to wonder if such leaks are considered to be in-spec?

 

Edited by 0257
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‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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