What did you do to your 2002 today !

[M4202]

Spotted in the wild today .

Not mine but damn it was pretty . If someone knows the owner please ask them to say Hi . 

[OldRoller]

Glass, vent window and door adjustments done, 8 mil plastic sealed the cavity, time for the door cards. Finally.  

 

 

 

Pleased with the result. After being in boxes and totes for a year plus the only part I lost was the plastic cup behind one of the vent window handles... that will bother me for a bit, but with my memory it won't be long....

 

 

 

[pd_55]

@OldRoller Doors look great and love the color combo. My car will be done paint next month and the door glass and vent windows need to go back in. How much trouble did you have getting all of the glass lined up and was there a specific order of installation that you found worked best? Thanks.

[OldRoller]

In a nutshell: Glass first into the cavity, then vent window assembly, then glass rails etc. Lots of posts here that addresses the procedures. If your doors are off, align them first with the body before installing the glass, obviously.

A lot of members have been here before us and provided insight into all the methods and pitfalls. Use the search engine for posts and articles.

One point: examine and clean all the components before asembly. I cleaned and lubed both vent window mechanisms, front and rear window rails, regulator, glass carrier and its rollers. etc. Nothing gives you a headache more than assembling something only to find out its buggered. 

Good luck with your newly painted ride!

 

 

Edited May 29 by OldRoller

[Leucadian]

I love my wheels, but I've never been the biggest fan of the Limmerfelgen logo.  So I picked up some roundels to cover them up.

 

 

 

Much better.  

 

 

[Mark92131]

While I continue to fit Kilmat on the interior for the 1600, I took a break to work on my S14 TPS mounting.  I always planned to run this motor with an aftermarket ECU.  As part of that transition, I needed to replace the OEM TPS (on/off switch) with a TPS that provides variable ohm output that the ECU understands as closed to 100% open.  So I removed the OEM TPS and bought a spacer from Massive that allows one to mount a variable TPS from an E39 M5 on the front "D" shaft of the throttle bodies.

 

The issue with this approach after starting the car is that in Alpha/N tuning, the TPS controls the ignition, fuel and AFR target maps and there is a wide gap between the low ohm reading on the TPS at 0% position and the ohm reading a 100% WOT.  This means that the throttle needs to move more to produce the what ECU thinks is 5% (the second row in my ignition, fuel and AFR tables).  This was causing issues because the throttle bodies were opening letting in more air, but the ECU wasn't recognizing the change in throttle position as the RPM climbed.  So I order to correct this, I had to modify the tables to add fuel, timing to the 0% TPS row for RPMs over 1200.  Not ideal, so I looked for other solutions.

 

I found a throttle position sensor mounting solution for the S14 from VAC that claimed it solves this issue by allows some adjustment of the TPS to close the ohm sweep gap between 0% and 100%.  I didn't understand how that was accomplished looking at the part online, and VAC wasn't able to provide any installation instructions or much in the way of technical support.  To be fair, they were in the process of moving to a new facility.

 

I ordered it anyway and when it arrived, I took it out of the box and scratched my head.  How does this work, it is half the thickness of my original spacer, something must be missing?  RealOEM to the rescue.  On the OEM TPS, there is a NLA part called the Flange that the actual TPS on/off switch is bolted to and it provides some adjustment to set the "on" position of the TPS switch in relation to the position of the throttle bodies.  So I need the flange to install the VAC adapter.  Well, it took most of the day, but I finally found the original OEM TPS with the flange attached in the last box of spare parts I looked in.  Moral of the story, Hoarding is good.

 

I removed the Massive adapter, loosely attached the flange to the throttle bodies so I could adjust its position and then attached my new E39 M5 TPS to the flange.  Turned on TunerStudio and pulled up the tool for calibrating the TPS sensor.  By rotating the flange, I could vary the ohms at 0% position from 66 to 105.  I pulled everything apart, tighten the flange at the 105 ohm position, reinstalled the TPS, and recalibrated it.  With that change, I am able to take the lag out between when the throttle plates begin to open and when the ECU senses the throttle position has changed.  Now the Tables behave correctly and the throttle response is on point.  Back to the interior.

 

Mark92131

 

 

Edited May 31 by Mark92131
duplicate

[JohnS]

sealed her up... And added an "S"

 

E21 3.64 Diff with late e36 pumpkin LSD transplant.

 

Thanks @RussTii

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 31 by JohnS

[0257]

4 hours ago, JohnS said:

sealed her up... And added an "S"

 

E21 3.64 Diff with late e36 pumpkin LSD transplant.

 

Thanks @RussTii

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m overdue adding that I’m running a Russtii 3.64:1 LSD with an e30 gearset, and very satisfied so far.  Hard curves are pretty rare in this part of the world but it feels like I’m driving a snake whenever I push into one.  I need to get the decal!

['76mintgrün'02]

1 hour ago, 0257 said:

 I need to get the decal!

 

 

[jimk]

19 hours ago, Mark92131 said:

This means that the throttle needs to move more to produce the what ECU thinks is 5% (the second row in my ignition, fuel and AFR tables).

Adding 1 % and 3 % columns to the throttle % axis solves the issue (if the software allows table building).

[JohnS]

12 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

 

Yes, I used one of the stencils from Mo to paint that "S" on my diff.  I found the stencils to not be the easiest to use.  I bought two of them.  I completely botched the first one, only partially botched the second one.  I ended up sort of freehanding the second one using a small brush to make it look acceptable (as shown in the pics).  Turned out OK.  I wish they were a decal, that would be much easier to apply.

Edited June 1 by JohnS

['76mintgrün'02]

I have not tried this.  I just remembered the offering, so I shared the link.  (My differential is open).

 

The S was painted on by the factory, as opposed to using a sticker.  The rough surface on the casting seems like it might make it hard to get a crisp line. 

 

Tom

[JohnS]

I have a couple of original E21 LSD and it appears like the factory used a rubber stamp to apply the "S".  Here's a picture from one of mine.  I added the "S" on that e36 transplant just so some dumbass (like myself) doesn't fill it with the wrong fluid in the future ☺️

 

Edited June 1 by JohnS

[Mark92131]

2 hours ago, jimk said:

Adding 1 % and 3 % columns to the throttle % axis solves the issue (if the software allows table building).

 

I tried that, but I would get a significant increase in RPM (the ECU would stay in the 0% row >2000 RPM) from the throttles opening before it jumped from 0% to the 1% row.  With this fix, I was able to modify my table so the first three throttle % rows are 0%, 2% and 5% and the ECU recognizes 2% throttle at around 1500 RPM.

 

Mark92131

[bottlecaps]

Proud new owner of this 71 02 I just won on Bring a Trailer.  I love it!  I daily drove a 76 back in my college days. It’s great to finally be back in the saddle.  So far I have only put in a new battery and lubricated the manual choke on the Solex.  It’s very original. It came with the owners manual, dealer service book,  and Huf folding ignition key.