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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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On Friday I experienced a sinking brake pedal and found the fluid level had dropped in the reservoir, but no obvious leaks by the wheels. Since I had a new master cylinder, reservoir hoses and elbows among my spare parts, I installed it yesterday. A little oil in the booster, but no brake fluid... 

 

Then after bleeding the clutch, I found that the junction at the left rear brake hose above the subframe was wet, with a wet spot on the subframe below. I tightened it as well as I could, but it's still weeping. I have flare crow's foot wrenches on order to try to get it tighter. The braided stainless hoses were installed a couple years ago when I had the subframe out; guess it loosened up. 

 

The new master sure is shiny, though! 20240617_21162301.thumb.jpg.d8270cb15726bb8267c4cc7c84470ed7.jpg

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Colorado '71 2002

'17 VW GTI Sport
'10 Honda Odyssey Family & Stuff Hauler

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My daughter gave me this B&W photo for Father's Day.  I was stoked!!

She wanted to make it RETRO... I love it.  She said you can only see your hand... That's good 😊

 

She also called the .JPG Beamer.jpg   we've still got some edumacations to do..

 

This is film for those who remember that..

 

Beamer.jpg

Edited by JohnS
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'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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1 hour ago, JohnS said:

My daughter gave me this B&W photo for Father's Day.  I was stoked!!

She wanted to make it RETRO... I love it.  She said you can only see your hand... That's good 😊

 

She also called the .JPG Beamer.jpg   we've still got some edumacations to do..

 

This is film for those who remember that..

 

Beamer.jpg

Daughters rock!  Mine gave me these:

IMG_3242.jpeg

IMG_3244.jpeg

  • Like 10

John

1973 Nevada 2002 - 2023 CCA Classic Car Raffle car

Other - 2022 V60CC, 2014 B8.5 S4, 2003 TJ

Past - 1996 318ti, 1999 323i, 2004 X3 (with 6-spd manual), 2007 328i (spt pkg), 2015 XC70, and a whole mess of GTIs in the old days.

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Finally got the rear bumper mounted, not a bolt'n'go project. There was some grinding, tweaking, paint touch-up, spacer fabrication, etc... but now it's solid, and happy with the appearance. Suspension next, looking at the 'bread n butter' setup for the 02 from Ground Control, or maybe some items from IE. Could definitely use some camber/caster....

And an exhaust tip....

 

Rearbumper.thumb.jpg.38afb5e64bb0c289c41ce1d6aefd3c25.jpg

Edited by OldRoller
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Hacker of many things... master of none.

 

Gunther March 19, 1974. Hoffman Motors march 22 1974 NYC

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3 hours ago, OldRoller said:

Finally got the rear bumper mounted, not a bolt'n'go project. There was some grinding, tweaking, paint touch-up, spacer fabrication, etc... but now it's solid, and happy with the appearance. Suspension next, looking at the 'bread n butter' setup for the 02 from Ground Control, or maybe some items from IE. Could definitely use some camber/caster....

And an exhaust tip....

 

Rearbumper.thumb.jpg.38afb5e64bb0c289c41ce1d6aefd3c25.jpg

Very nice 👍🏼 I hear you on some trimming required:) I bought one of the bumpers from Blunt a couple years ago and I finally spent and afternoon trimming and mounting it. 
 

That bread and butter GC setup looks like the way to go if you’re doing coil overs👌🏼

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Last summer I replaced the door skin on my drivers door but didn’t put any sound deadening on the backside. I got tired of hearing the empty hallow sound every time I closed the door. I applied some kilmat on the inside door skin and what a difference it made. The door sounds solid again.  Wish I had done that sooner. 

IMG_1930.jpeg

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I’ve been under the weather so I’ve only had the energy to spend a few minutes wrenching every night. That means this is the third night of trying to remove the bastard of a starter nut that’s up against the block. Used all my extensions, wobble attachments, pivot wrenches, whathaveyou but then I read a post on here that said you can just jam a screw driver in there and lever it against the nut to hold it still. Success! Removed both bolts, got tired, and left the starter laying against the bottom of the block. Definitely going to replace that nut with a hex cap bolt (also a tip from here, of course) when I put the new starter in.

 

IMG_3858.thumb.jpeg.2d07e8914dd2ed166fd263e85e7abf4d.jpeg

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When you go to put it back ,Try putting Some mechanic's wire around the outside of the nut with enough of the end of the wire to come out long enough for you to comfortably hold onto the nut to guide it onto the bolt, then finish off with the screwdriver trick 

 

Thanks Rick

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On 6/17/2024 at 9:36 PM, dlhoovler said:

On Friday I experienced a sinking brake pedal and found the fluid level had dropped in the reservoir, but no obvious leaks by the wheels. Since I had a new master cylinder, reservoir hoses and elbows among my spare parts, I installed it yesterday. A little oil in the booster, but no brake fluid... 

 

Then after bleeding the clutch, I found that the junction at the left rear brake hose above the subframe was wet, with a wet spot on the subframe below. I tightened it as well as I could, but it's still weeping. I have flare crow's foot wrenches on order to try to get it tighter. The braided stainless hoses were installed a couple years ago when I had the subframe out; guess it loosened up. 

 

The new master sure is shiny, though! 

 

Update: The flare nut crow's foot wrenches came in, and yesterday I was able to work on tightening the fitting. The new wrenches allowed me to get another quarter turn or so, and after a short drive the fitting is still dry.

 

I think my wife is onto me, though: "So this was an excuse to buy a new tool, huh?" 

 

And it took me a minute to realize why Amazon suddenly started showing me ads for skin rejuvenating creams after ordering those wrenches... 

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  • Haha 5

Colorado '71 2002

'17 VW GTI Sport
'10 Honda Odyssey Family & Stuff Hauler

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6 hours ago, popovm said:

I’ve been under the weather so I’ve only had the energy to spend a few minutes wrenching every night. That means this is the third night of trying to remove the bastard of a starter nut that’s up against the block. Used all my extensions, wobble attachments, pivot wrenches, whathaveyou but then I read a post on here that said you can just jam a screw driver in there and lever it against the nut to hold it still. Success! Removed both bolts, got tired, and left the starter laying against the bottom of the block. Definitely going to replace that nut with a hex cap bolt (also a tip from here, of course) when I put the new starter in.

 

IMG_3858.thumb.jpeg.2d07e8914dd2ed166fd263e85e7abf4d.jpeg

I put the bolt on the starter side as I mount the starter and the nut/washer on the transmission side.   No grief.  No use making life miserable.

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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16 hours ago, sczapiga said:

That bread and butter GC setup looks like the way to go if you’re doing coil overs👌🏼

The B&B kit from GC (# bmw2002k-100) is not a total coil over kit, just adjustable spring purchases, shocks and struts. Good for a susension rework on weak components, mount as stock items do. I have new Koni's on the rear and am happy with the rear stance (white stripe stock springs). The front sits noticeably higher, and camber is near zero. IE has fixed camber plates (5/8 degree negative camber) and 'bump steer' offsets (1.7degrees negative). There are adjustable front spring purchases available, they require stock lower purchases being cut and welding lower mounts to the strut housing. Welding mods remove returning to stock, so new front struts, springs and probably the fixed camber plates are possible. The front needs about 2" of drop (the fixed plates add 1/4" height). The issue, to keep a good balance, is to match new springs to the rate of the rear springs, or as close as possible. Most spring kits are all four corners, so installing a matched set may be in the works.

So many choices, so little brain activity....😎

Hacker of many things... master of none.

 

Gunther March 19, 1974. Hoffman Motors march 22 1974 NYC

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8 hours ago, popovm said:

Definitely going to replace that nut with a hex cap bolt

Good plan. That was an old Bill Williams tip. I used them this past winter, when I finally replaced my 76ers big-bodied starter with the small-bodied version.


Getting the old starter out was a total PITA. I also had the fun of working around my in-situ dual DCOEs. Tedious and cramped indeed.  I found this small 17mm wrench to be invaluable on removal and install…

 

IMG_3493.jpeg

IMG_3497.jpeg

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Where we goin’? … I’ll drive…
There are some who call me... Tom too         v i s i o n a u t i k s.com   

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The SR440x starter is in! And holy cow is it better than the worn out SR71x that was in there. I had to fiddle around with the wiring but turns out the ignition wire goes on the bottom just like the old starter but my the old starter also had a key on 12v source off of the emission wiring attached to the top terminal for some reason. Now I am wondering if that was causing the occasional hang that the starter would do where it would continue spinning with the engine for a second after starting? Dunno. Big improvement regardless. I feel more confident in this thing actually starting everytime. @stephers and @jimk,  I used both your tips, thanks!

 

IMG_3873.thumb.jpeg.ca41908c110a69992a77b46d024376aa.jpeg
 

 @visionaut Only time I’ve been glad I didn’t have DCOEs. 😆 And that little Tekton wrench looks handy. Adding them to the tool wish list. 
 

One slight bummer task… I discovered brake fluid from the master in my freshly painted pedal box. I wiped it out and looks like I didn’t catch it quick enough. Very effective paint stripper! I really don’t want to remove the pedal box again. Guess I’ll do some creative taping and spray painting once I replace the master. 
 

IMG_3880.thumb.jpeg.59e6cfe36d064e18395530055b9eef21.jpeg

Edited by popovm
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32 minutes ago, popovm said:

The SR440x starter is in! And holy cow is it better than the worn out SR71x that was in there. I had to fiddle around with the wiring but turns out the ignition wire goes on the bottom just like the old starter but my the old starter also had a key on 12v source off of the emission wiring attached to the top terminal for some reason. Now I am wondering if that was causing the occasional hang that the starter would do where it would continue spinning with the engine for a second after starting? Dunno. Big improvement regardless. I feel more confident in this thing actually starting everytime. @stephers and @jimk,  I used both your tips, thanks!

 

IMG_3873.thumb.jpeg.ca41908c110a69992a77b46d024376aa.jpeg
 

 @visionaut Only time I’ve been glad I didn’t have DCOEs. 😆 And that little Tekton wrench looks handy. Adding them to the tool wish list. 
 

One slight bummer task… I discovered brake fluid from the master in my freshly painted pedal box. I wiped it out and looks like I didn’t catch it quick enough. Very effective paint stripper! I really don’t want to remove the pedal box again. Guess I’ll do some creative taping and spray painting once I replace the master. 
 

IMG_3880.thumb.jpeg.59e6cfe36d064e18395530055b9eef21.jpeg

Good to know! I have a starter I have yet to install. Looking forward to it lol. 

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2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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