What did you do to your 2002 today !

[Lucky 7]

This felt like a big step. It’s been over two years since I had any badging on the car. I took them off for the body shop, waited way too long for that job to finish, then spent the last 10 months doing interior which still isn’t quite done. BUT it’s almost ready to drive and it’s not coming out of the garage without it’s badges.  Tomorrow I’ll put on the rear roundel and 2002 badge. 
 

 

[Highnote1]

8 hours ago, Lucky 7 said:

This felt like a big step. It’s been over two years since I had any badging on the car. I took them off for the body shop, waited way too long for that job to finish, then spent the last 10 months doing interior which still isn’t quite done. BUT it’s almost ready to drive and it’s not coming out of the garage without it’s badges.  Tomorrow I’ll put on the rear roundel and 2002 badge. 
 

 

You’re so patient! The first thing I do when my cars come back from paint is easy exterior stuff. I like to walk out in the garage and pretend that it’s almost done. My last one I had emblems, trim, bumper…all before headliner and glass. If someone drove by…they would think I was close. 😂😂

[JamesRamsay]

I'm having a hell of a time finding brake discs/drums for my old wreck here in Perth, so I thought I'd have another look at what's actually on my car to see if they might at least be roadworthy. I've got a set of 250mm brakes from an E21 with drums that will probably keep, and I even have ONE good brake disc underneath a load of rust.

 

...Unfortunately, the other brake disc is completely knackered. Back when I got the car I found that the front right caliper was seized, but I didn't realise until today that the previous owner must have been driving around with the brake locked on for quite a while. The disc on that side actually tapers from about 9.9mm thick at the outer edge down to like 7.5 towards the centre. These discs are 10mm thick when new and hit their limit at 9mm, by the way 🫣

[Clem Simmons]

The car looks great. I like your wheels. They look like the ones I have for my car. 
 

I have to get the bumpers off my Roundie and get them off to be rechromed. 
 

I am just about to order a set of Eibach lowering springs for my car. I would like to give it some attitude without ruining the ride too much. Eibach calls it the Pro-Kit. 

[Mark92131]

I started the headliner install project.  I bought this headliner from a German company on eBay about 4 years ago.  I was advertised as OEM NOS, but I never opened the box until this week.  Took the headliner out of the bag to iron out the wrinkles.  I was a little shocked because I was expecting that the front of the headliner would have some material for the "A" pillars, like the "C" pillars, but realized they are all cut straight across in the front.

 

I ironed out the wrinkles and started preparing the slits for the bows and noticed that this "OEM" headliner is significantly narrower than the one in @ClayW's excellent installation writeup.  I am hoping this lack of material won't heed the clipping part of the installation.  I'm also unsure if I should slit the bow loops from the end of the material to expose the bow ends, or start the slit 1.5" from the edge of the material?

 

Mark92131

[Dave919]

Finally installed my new water pump today. As a novice who did not grow up wrenching I really take my time, but the progress is good.  The last bit to figure out tomorrow - it’s too damn hot in the garage - is why the radiator won’t line up with the holes to secure it. It’s a 320 radiator that one of the POs put in who knows when - but it lines up when I pulled it.  So weird.  Will try again in the morning when the air is a bit cooler and my brain isn’t fatigued. 

[Highnote1]

Dyed some new to me front and back panels. Two tone going away and blue going to black for back. Anything I can do to be productive as I wait for paint to finish up. Repost of center console with new vents!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 22 by Highnote1

[Son of Marty]

1 hour ago, Mark92131 said:

I was a little shocked because I was expecting that the front of the headliner would have some material for the "A" pillars, like the "C" pillars, but realized they are all cut straight across in the front.

The A pillars were done in black vinyl.

[OldRoller]

Replaced the center drag link. I had been noticing a bit of tramlining, especially on uneven or ridged roads at speed. Found the pittman and idler arm to center link studs with a small bit of play in each, magnified at the steering wheel. Done, steady and infinitely better.

[popovm]

4 hours ago, OldRoller said:

Replaced the center drag link. I had been noticing a bit of tramlining, especially on uneven or ridged roads at speed. Found the pittman and idler arm to center link studs with a small bit of play in each, magnified at the steering wheel. Done, steady and infinitely better.

Just did mine and also noticed a huge improvement. Removed a good amount of play.  Also got rid of an annoying squeak I was getting on slow speed turns. Turns out those center link ends are little pivots that turn and need oil over time…  I think mine was roached long before I got the car but I probably woulda oiled that sucker if I knew… 

Edited June 23 by popovm

[Pablo M]

Side project. Got $10 worth of fabric and thought I’d have a little fun. Redid my rear deck. The vinyl was rotted away and the board was water damaged. Got a replacement backing board from Blunttech. 
 

Yes, it’s fake cow hide lol. Goes well

with the blue. 

[d.hitchcock]

Addressed issues with my throttle pedal/linkage. The car is EFI converted, with a cable for the throttle. Over the five-plus years of use, the pedal function and feel has deteriorated. The lever arm had slipped on the rod, so I wasn't getting to WOT. Plus, I ran out of cable (so to speak) before the pedal hit the floor. This would lead to hyperextending the pedal (pushing farther anyway), popping the base on the nubs and jamming the rod at a weird angle, etc.

My first discovery was that my pedal box was missing the washers that adjoin the throttle rod bushings, allowing the metal parts to grind into the plastic bushings. Second was that the movement of the lever arm on the rod had damaged the little splines on the rod, and wallowed out the mounting hole on the lever arm.

 

So, I added the missing washers, cleaned up the splines with a pick and an angle file, rehabbed the lever arm by opening up more clearance to gain more "pinch," and fabbed up a pedal stop. Got everything back together and adjusted properly. I am once again hitting WOT, and doing so precisely as the new pedal stop hits the floor.

It seems to be working fine and holding together. My ultimate solution will be the installation of the IE billet throttle pedal. But I have autocrosses coming up and needed something to be ready to go for that.

The pedal stop consists of an "architectural bolt" inserted into a hole drilled through the stock gas pedal. The one I used was two inches long, so it runs all the way through the pedal. A small rubber foot with recessed washer is screwed into the bolt. A set of fender washers is used to adjust the length of the pedal stop.

 

[JohnS]

Yesterday was a good day.  Got my 1974 tii (USA) Air box put back together and installed.

The good old 1974tii (USA Model) air box.  The "Ugly Duckling" of the 2002tii air box world 🙂

 

 

 

Edited June 23 by JohnS

[its55]

while working on restoring my headlight buckets and generally the area behind the grill I am cleaning the 50 years of dirt and materials built up in that seemingly endless crevice above the front spoiler lip 🤣 

[Lucky 7]

On 6/22/2024 at 7:17 AM, Highnote1 said:

You’re so patient! The first thing I do when my cars come back from paint is easy exterior stuff. I like to walk out in the garage and pretend that it’s almost done. My last one I had emblems, trim, bumper…all before headliner and glass. If someone drove by…they would think I was close. 😂😂

Haha!  I totally get that. I decided to leave them to the end as a nice finishing touch. The cherry on top if you will. 
 

Finished up the back today: