What did you do to your 2002 today !

[vinceg14]

I can also recommend Church Automotive. Shawn tuned my Supercharged 2000 Toyota  Spyder. That car ran great after his fine tuning. 

 

Well it wasn't today but on Friday finally got to Church Automotive Testing in Wilmington, CA. to get some tuning done.  The hardest part was the over 2 hours drive in traffic to get there at 10 am.

 

Shawn was very professional and took the time to answer all my questions.  I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Church.

 

The whole process took less than 2 hours.  The engine now pulls much smoother and has about 40+ more HP, yup it was in need of some help.  We ended up with 259 hp and 255 lbs of torque.  The boost was kept at 12 lbs.  My goal was not to get every last bit of power out of the engine but to get enough to make it fun and keep it as safe as possible.  Well I did want to get at least 1 more HP than Ray  

[bento]

10 hours ago, KenH said:

Brent the dyno sheet is attached as PDF in my post.

 

Doh, missed that! Well now I can’t get it to open on my iDevices. Will try on a computer in the morning...

[Whaledriver]

Spent a lazy Sunday cleaning out the interior of the rear quarter panels to insure their was no hidden rust,  painted as much as I could reach with POR 15 and then added BOOM MAT.  Also mounted the burled wood panel strips, I took off of an AUDI, on to the four interior side panels. It may not suit others tastes for originality but I like it.

[Bibm5]

Spent a lazy Sunday cleaning out the interior of the rear quarter panels to insure their was no hidden rust,  painted as much as I could reach with POR 15 and then added BOOM MAT.  Also mounted the burled wood panel strips, I took off of an AUDI, on to the four interior side panels. It may not suit others tastes for originality but I like it.

Very nice!
The wood trim looks like it was meant to be there.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[ray_]

26 minutes ago, Whaledriver said:

Spent a lazy Sunday cleaning out the interior of the rear quarter panels to insure their was no hidden rust,  painted as much as I could reach with POR 15 and then added BOOM MAT.  Also mounted the burled wood panel strips, I took off of an AUDI, on to the four interior side panels. It may not suit others tastes for originality but I like it.

 

 

 

 

Please replace the handle insert please

[Dudeland]

One down one to go.  I put in new I.E studs on my front hub. The PO used washers as wheel spacers, now I have a nice set of custom hub centered spacers in there. 

 

[PaulTWinterton]

23 hours ago, ray_ said:

Please replace the handle insert please

 

+please.

 

On 11/6/2017 at 5:30 PM, Whaledriver said:

Also mounted the burled wood panel strips

 

I like the burl.  Not original, but complimentary.  

 

Did you add BoomMat inside your doors?  If the original material has disintegrated, BoomMat is a great replacement.  Thunk!

 

I'm also a fan of sheepskin seat covers, although it may be taboo these days.  Very period-correct and oh so cozy.

 

Nice

 

 

 

 

 

 

[iinca]

I like the burl look too. Now if you can do the gauge surround and console in burl you'll blow my mind

 

Paul we used to get 'Cheapskins' back in the day. Usually for half the price...and from the sketchy arabs selling them on the corner downtown. (not real sheep fur lol..who knows..)

Edited November 8, 2017 by iinca

[Simeon]

I am going to get some sheepskin seat covers. Very much a classic Australian 'upgrade'. Think: long journeys, hot weather, vinyl seats

[Whaledriver]

14 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

Not yet, but  I have the extra Boom Mat sheets and I intend to install them in the doors. Since quality1" sheepskin seat covers are so expensive, I only purchased one for the driver, as the number of times I have a passenger is negligible. It really makes a comfort  difference in both the summer and winter. A second advantage is that it provides an extra cushion on the uncomfortable original seats.

 

 

I like the burl.  Not original, but complimentary.  

 

Did you add BoomMat inside your doors?  If the original material has disintegrated, BoomMat is a great replacement.  Thunk!

 

I'm also a fan of sheepskin seat covers, although it may be taboo these days.  Very period-correct and oh so cozy.

 

Nice

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 8, 2017 by Whaledriver

[2002Scoob]

I've been on vacation in CA (and going back again next week) , and the weather has turned to shit here in Germany, so haven't had much progress/things happening with Brunhilde.... BUT!

 

Due to jetlag I finished my little custom T-fitting into my brake-booster line at around 3am, and was able to connect and drive to work with my vacuum advance hooked up and working.

 

I made it out of a large brass barbed end-to-end hose connector that I drilled and tapped in the middle. I then bonded in a second, single, nylon barb into the middle with 90 min. industrial epoxy after I lightly melted the plastic, heated the metal, and squished the two around on each-other to make a mechanical fit before bonding. Mechanical/chemical bond is the best bond

 

Sooo, now I have vacuum advance! I used some numbers found on the forum, and drove the car to work this morning. Still not sure what, if anything it's doing. But I've got it now so that makes me feel happy. 

 

 

[2002Scoob]

Here’s a pic-



I’m using relatively soft silicone hose for both the brake booster and vacuum line to the dizzy. (But not so soft as to collapse)

My hope is that the pliability of the hose will act as a good signal damper, and the Ireland manifold is cross-drilled between the throats so that helps too.

It’s not doing anything strange... so.... I guess it’s working?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Simeon]

Connect to your dashboard and let us know what your vacuum reading looks like? Does it jump around or is it stable? Suspect the sampling rate isn't fast enough to catch individual pulses but it may cause the overall vacuum signal to read low.

[2002Scoob]

5 hours ago, Simeon said:

Connect to your dashboard and let us know what your vacuum reading looks like? Does it jump around or is it stable? Suspect the sampling rate isn't fast enough to catch individual pulses but it may cause the overall vacuum signal to read low.

I don't have a vacuum gauge... It's just going strait to the dizzy. 

 

I honestly am still baffled by just how to implement vac advance changes or why.... I just copied the numbers from what Steven gave me, which was given to him by Ed (Zinz) so figured it was a good start. I'm running a few degrees more advance across the board, thou. 38 overall.

 

Start-1400

 

Point1 0-0

Point2 29-0

Point3 30-10

Point4 50-10

Point5 87-0

[ray_]

Um, the 123 has a vacuum reading display

 

Digest everything here, and then explain to me, because I need to do the same thing

 

 

Edited November 9, 2017 by ray_