What did you do to your 2002 today !

[danco_]

8 minutes ago, Leucadian said:

Cocomats!  I've got the interior pretty much where I want it.  Just waiting on speaker pods from Kooglewerks and that'll be it.

 

Looks great! Who did the seats? I have a spare set I need to have redone. 

 

 

[Leucadian]

6 minutes ago, danco_ said:

Looks great! Who did the seats? I have a spare set I need to have redone. 

 

 

 

Thanks!  Dave at Aardvarc Racing did them.  Took about 4-5 weeks once I dropped off the originals.  

 

 

[bento]

Quick easy project this afternoon. I noticed the IE sway bar had shifted to one side and was contacting the torque arm. 

 

Found these bar clamps from Whiteline on Amazon for next day Prime delivery.

[cdbeemin]

Over lunch and a couple of short breaks, I installed the dash, hooked everything up, and test fit the steering wheel. IE camber plates are delayed, so will work on finishing trunk, putting on trim, and glass while I wait.

[chargin]

I really never liked how the relays looked hanging off the tabs plus I've added 3 as well as numerous fuses, I found this handy 10 relay/15 fuse box and figured I'd have at it:

  

 

As it looked before:

 

still some fuses to add before I seal it all up but everything works as it's supposed to all the way out to the turn signals, also re-routed the front harness to the inside of the nose 

 

[2002iii]

1 hour ago, chargin said:

I really never liked how the relays looked hanging off the tabs plus I've added 3 as well as numerous fuses, I found this handy 10 relay/15 fuse box and figured I'd have at it:

  

 

As it looked before:

 

still some fuses to add before I seal it all up but everything works as it's supposed to all the way out to the turn signals, also re-routed the front harness to the inside of the nose 

 

It definitely looks cleaner, but I think I would have used a fuse box from an e30, they hold 10 relays and 30 fuses in a very nice compact box that has a clear lid with a BMW roundel on it. You could use it for all your fuses and quite a few extra for accessories or spare fuse holders. 

[chargin]

51 minutes ago, 2002iii said:

It definitely looks cleaner, but I think I would have used a fuse box from an e30, they hold 10 relays and 30 fuses in a very nice compact box that has a clear lid with a BMW roundel on it. You could use it for all your fuses and quite a few extra for accessories or spare fuse holders. 

 

It could be done but A LOT harder, and horizontal mounting since it's about 5" deep, the circuit board design kind of scares me for figuring it all out, this one I used is very user friendly to wire @$43.99

 

But I like your concept 

 

 

[2002#3]

Solved post-new-alternator-jumpy-coolant-temperature-gauge issue:  grounded the case of the alternator to the chassis.  Now gauge needle stays solidly at 3:00 and does not move when any electrical device is switched on.  Took only a week of chasing every ground on the car.  Never thought about the alternator needing more grounding b/c I thought grounding the case to engine was sufficient.  Then I remembered some wonderful and intelligent angel on FAQ here mentioned grounding the alternator.  Hmmm...let's try...

Larry

 

[kbmb02]

Inspected a 2002, and noted some areas of concern...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(yes, those hard brakes lines are functional .. but, still)

 

 

 

 

[tzei]

7 hours ago, 2002iii said:

a fuse box from an e30

I did that once  It got pretty thin after i sawed exess plastic of from the bottom. New contactors was a b#€ch to find so i recycled old ones. 

[g_force]

43 minutes ago, kbmb02 said:

Inspected a 2002, and noted some areas of concern...

 

I almost spit my coffee out through my nose.  That was a great morning laugh!

[2002Scoob]

1 hour ago, kbmb02 said:

Inspected a 2002, and noted some areas of concern...

 

Sold for 25k?

[xr4tic]

19 hours ago, wheelieking said:

It's not so much what I did to the car recently, as what I did around it.  We moved over the summer to a place with a full shop, and I spent the last two months finishing out the inside to have it insulated and heated/cooled.  (Side note: I highly recommend the DIY self install Mini-split heat pump options on the market.  There are even 9k BTU versions that will run on 110 if you just want to heat a big garage.  Mine is 24k BTU).  

 

 

 

I installed a Mr Cool 24K DIY unit late last year (Octoberish), 24x30 garage with 12' ceilings.  It does work for heating, but don't expect miracles.  I used a propane heater to help get the garage up to temp when outside temps where below freezing.

 

Also, it draws a lot of electricity, expect a 3-4 KWh increase while it's heating.

 

I haven't had a chance to try A/C yet, but they're much more efficient at cooling than heating.

[g_force]

33 minutes ago, xr4tic said:

I haven't had a chance to try A/C yet, but they're much more efficient at cooling than heating.

 

I've that same unit in my garage of slightly smaller dimension for a couple of years.  It is an attached garage with 9ft ceilings, and has a room above so it is probably easier to heat and cool than either wheelieking's or xr4tic's.  But, I also don't have an insulated garage door.  I do have seals around the door and between the door and floor.  

 

My MrCool was able to bring my garage temp into the 60s when it was sunny and in the upper teens here during Texas's recent snowmageddon.  It was warm enough in my garage to be comfortable in pants and a long sleeve shirt while fixing the burst pipe in my garage wall. ☹️ But, when low 40s, damp and windy, it is not comfortable to work under the car on the cold concrete floor, except with a couple of layers.  

 

My MrCool, in the summer, brings my garage temp to the mid 70s when it's sunny and near 100 deg if I start it in the morning while it's still relatively cool out (maybe high 80s).  If I start it after lunch, there's no hope of cooling it to below the high 80s.

 

I've not paid attention to energy usage, but agree they're supposedly more efficient at cooling than heating.

 

Regardless, I recommend them.  Install was easy, if you've got the power (24k BTU is 220V) and the cost was reasonable ~$2k with the electrician cost to wire a 220V.  FWIW, I got a couple of quotes to install mini-splits.  Both quotes were in the $6k range.

 

 

[wheelieking]

1 hour ago, xr4tic said:

 

I installed a Mr Cool 24K DIY unit late last year (Octoberish), 24x30 garage with 12' ceilings.  It does work for heating, but don't expect miracles.  I used a propane heater to help get the garage up to temp when outside temps where below freezing.

 

Also, it draws a lot of electricity, expect a 3-4 KWh increase while it's heating.

 

I haven't had a chance to try A/C yet, but they're much more efficient at cooling than heating.

 

48 minutes ago, g_force said:

 

I've that same unit in my garage of slightly smaller dimension for a couple of years.  It is an attached garage with 9ft ceilings, and has a room above so it is probably easier to heat and cool than either wheelieking's or xr4tic's.  But, I also don't have an insulated garage door.  I do have seals around the door and between the door and floor.  

 

My MrCool was able to bring my garage temp into the 60s when it was sunny and in the upper teens here during Texas's recent snowmageddon.  It was warm enough in my garage to be comfortable in pants and a long sleeve shirt while fixing the burst pipe in my garage wall. ☹️ But, when low 40s, damp and windy, it is not comfortable to work under the car on the cold concrete floor, except with a couple of layers.  

 

My MrCool, in the summer, brings my garage temp to the mid 70s when it's sunny and near 100 deg if I start it in the morning while it's still relatively cool out (maybe high 80s).  If I start it after lunch, there's no hope of cooling it to below the high 80s.

 

I've not paid attention to energy usage, but agree they're supposedly more efficient at cooling than heating.

 

Regardless, I recommend them.  Install was easy, if you've got the power (24k BTU is 220V) and the cost was reasonable ~$2k with the electrician cost to wire a 220V.  FWIW, I got a couple of quotes to install mini-splits.  Both quotes were in the $6k range.

 

 

 

My shop is about the same. 24x30 with 15' ceilings. I have R30 in the walls, R49 in the ceiling, and an R19 garage door.  This unit is a great fit for me, given that here in the Northwest its rarely below 35 degrees and really more like 40-45 all winter, and 90+ in the summer is pretty rare.  The heat pump doesn't seem to break a sweat to keep heat it to 62-64 or so.  I had a quote for a pro install and it was between $10-12k.  Instead, I was able to finish out the shop, AND put in my own heat pump for that much.