What did you do to your 2002 today !

[tzei]

Dunno about those ”oil holes” but under those caps are about one table spoon of grease. Don’t wash that grease off.

[its55]

I'm a little behind on this thread...over the past week I have replaced my engine compartment fuel lines, installed new door guides / latch covers, capped off the open fuel return line, removed my floppy driver door mirror so I can hopefully fix that, worked on diagnosed inoperative wipers (checking wiring and relay currently), diagnosing pegged temp gauge (instrument cluster out, ground wires to be added, checking other grounds), removed the rear seat to inspect underneath (looks good, will clean) and am returning the center console to original condition (removed an inoperative vintage 70's cassette stereo ?...

[Dick318is]

Made a turbo cluster for my 2002 turbo replica (only need to swap the Rev.counter from my existing cluster)

Very happy with the result. Besides grid220 sanding I made a picture of the products I used. The mat red paint was a suggestion from someone here on the forum. 

 

 

[ScottA]

21 hours ago, BarneyT said:

Just sitting here looking at it and thinking about how much I love me some Inka…

Agreed.

Mine doesn't get out so often these days but stays parked where I can keep an eye on it.

 

 

[ScottA]

ventured into the cricket-pit this afternoon

 

 

super-easy to loosen these nuts by grabbing the swaybar and rolling the car back.

 

 

going to need more purposeful tools for the six-bolt guibo, like grinding a box-end thin and some handle-bending for reach.

I'm open to suggestions.

All six nuts are on the forward side. Is this typical?

 

[2002iii]

55 minutes ago, ScottA said:

ventured into the cricket-pit this afternoon

 

 

super-easy to loosen these nuts by grabbing the swaybar and rolling the car back.

 

 

going to need more purposeful tools for the six-bolt guibo, like grinding a box-end thin and some handle-bending for reach.

I'm open to suggestions.

All six nuts are on the forward side. Is this typical?

 

Nice pit of death!!

 

The factory put the nuts on the driveshaft and output flange side of the guibo. This was so when you tighten the nut you don't spin the metal collar in the guibo.

 

The only problem is if the bolts loosen they will destroy the rear transmission case and shift shaft. I found this out the hard way when my guibo failed.

 

The solution is to put all the nuts on the front and turn the bolts on the flange side while you hold the nuts on the guibo side.

[ingramlee]

All done except the test drive.

[AceAndrew]

19 hours ago, Markster said:

 

These caps are not meant to be removed!
 

  Now what do I squirt in there that will be effective with the gears?  

 

I've gone through several.  They can get really really crusty inside.  However, tapping the pot metal to remove the plates can sometimes break said pot metal, so I understand the hesitation.  As long as you were able to get the gunk out, then woo hoo!  After cleaning I restuffed with wheel bearing grease.

 

 

[Dick318is]

And I finished the job. Cat approved the end result.

 

I now have to source the 2-instrunent pod for clock and turbo gauge. Does anyone know where to get a nice replica? (I found instrument clusters for 3 gauges, but definatelly want 2 instrument cluster instead.

[Dave919]

I replaced my battered old steering wheel.  So much nicer for steering. Also replaced my temp sensor and now seem to be getting normal readings. 

[its55]

Resolved my temperature gauge issue today.  My gauge's issue was that it stayed pegged to hot.  Ultimately, the solution of adding the ground wire from the instrument cluster to the ground point on the interior firewall solved the issue.  Prior to doing that I added an engine to body ground strap and did some ohm meter testing.

[2002iii]

Finished restomoding my spare gauge cluster.

[its55]

Another one down - got the interior (dome) light working.  Not too bad of a job, cleaned all the contacts on the light and switches, put in the bulb that was missing.  Done!

[its55]

Well, I was wrong about having my temp gauge issue corrected.  Turns out that I just hadn't reconnected the wire to the sensor.  When I did the gauge pegged hot again.  So, I tested the temp sensor w/ an ohm meter and a pot of hot water.  The temp sensor is working.  Next after consulting the wiring diagram I found a 5 pin connector, hidden behind the driver footwell flexible tube that routes the air to the defroster vents..  When I got hold of that connector, I found it to be barely plugged together, and easily became unplugged in my hand.  The little pins looked a little "green".  I ran a test wire between the connector half leading to the instrument cluster and (brown / white wire) and the temp sensor.  Gauge worked!  Next I cleaned the little terminals inside the 5 pin connector and plugged it back together tightly.  Gauge works!!!!  Apparently that was the problem all along, but it  didn't hurt to go thru all the other stuff and check it out.

Edited February 15, 2022 by its55

[Clevis Woodruff]

Over the past month, I found a mechanic who is a 2002 enthusiast, so because the weather was cold and wet, I let him install the rear subframe and axle bushings (I bought the two axle set from Blunt about two years ago and only installed the front axle at the time).  He also re-packed the CV joints on the rear axles and installed new boots.

 

I liked his work, so I asked him to install the new motor mounts I bought a couple years ago.  While under the hood, he discovered a vacuum leak caused by a cracked gasket between the intake manifold and the cylinder head.  He demonstrated the old spray-carb-cleaner-on-the-leak-and-observe-the-idle-smooth-out trick.  Rather amazing.  He also checked the compression -- all running 125lbs -- and he said it looks like the valves guides are pretty new.  Good news to me!

 

Anyway, a couple of days later the car started running real balky, sort of like fuel starvation.  I recently replaced the noisy electric fuel pump with a much quieter one, and I thought it might be the culprit.  Turns out the distributor rotor and magnetic ring for the Pertronix were both cracked.  There is also a slight bulge in the sheet metal above the distributor that I never noticed before.  Oops!

 

Anyway, a new rotor and magnetic ring, a quick check of the timing, and the engine now starts cold and hot within a second, idles, transitions, and in all other ways runs really well.

 

Over the weekend I swapped out the drooling steering box with one that I refurbished with new seals and a home made gasket.

 

Mechanically, the '02 is as good as I can make it.  Now I just need to deal with an interior refurbish.  A headliner is on order from Blunt.