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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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10 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Yesterday, I ran some errands and when I got home, I popped the hood to adjust the idle mixture because it had dropped from 12-1/4 to 11-3/4 on the AFR gauge.

 

The first thing I did was to connect the 5568 and found that the dwell had dropped from 60 to 56. (!)  It was idling at 800 rpm and the flywheel said I had 13 degrees of advance.

 

I turned the dwell-adjustment back up to 60, which dropped the advance to 10 degrees and lowered the idle to 780 rpm.  It also put the AFR back at 12-1/4, so I adjusted the idle mixture without having to use the screw! :) 

 

Tom

 

Naw. The mixture remained the same. You just altered the application.

 

:P

  • Like 1

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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Finished the foglight wiring, radiator fan wiring, and installed the IE silicone hoses. I should have chose black but I got them a few years ago on a whim. Meh.

 

I think the stock rad is ok but I have an aluminum rad that I may install later.

I also need some better plug wire management. 

Progress feels good.

 

20230805_190152.jpg

 

20230805_143737 (1).jpg

20230805_143758 (1).jpg

 

Edited by theNomad
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1 hour ago, its55 said:

see one

dont know what one is

It's a plug gapper. Years ago I got gifted one from accell (sp) that works like that but has a lever with a blade on a handle, you put the blade that's the size of the gap you want and swing it into the plug and tighten the bottom screw 1/2 turn or so and your done easy pesy you can gap 100 plugs or more in a hour. !000 point for making one your self.

7-1024x683.jpg

Edited by Son of Marty
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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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22 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

It's a plug gapper. Years ago I got gifted one from accell (sp) that works like that but has a lever with a blade on a handle, you put the blade that's the size of the gap you want and swing it into the plug and tighten the bottom screw 1/2 turn or so and your done easy pesy you can gap 100 plugs or more in a hour. !000 point for making one your self.

7-1024x683.jpg

 

Thanks, I assumed so but wasn't sure.  I like it!

 

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20 hours ago, theNomad said:

Finished the foglight wiring, radiator fan wiring, and installed the IE silicone hoses. I should have chose black but I got them a few years ago on a whim. Meh.

 

I think the stock rad is ok but I have an aluminum rad that I may install later.

I also need some better plug wire management. 

Progress feels good.

 

20230805_190152.jpg

 

 

 

 

Looks great!

 

If it makes you feel any better, all of my hoses are black with the exception of my heater bypass hose, which is blue.

 

Drives me nuts, but I don't feel like taking the carbs and manifold off to get to it...

 

image.thumb.png.043a63ec31db4827e48960dfc6b750c4.png

Edited by Leucadian
  • Like 1

Engine bay OCD is a real problem

 

@02carbs 

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On 7/3/2023 at 1:52 PM, Son of Marty said:

Did you replace the plastic spacers with the new rubber?

18214490157__21281.1418152029.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

The other week when I was under the car redoing all the rear bushings I noticed the 3d printed ones I installed had disappeared. So I ordered these and we'll see.

2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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I had this Momo Prototipo wheel just sitting on the shelf as a display, so I decided to install it on Stuart.  The wheel represents the direction I am gently trying to take this car - period correct sport mods. 

20230808-momoprototipoinstall.thumb.jpg.07186da10fc7ae33546602ae2c286cbb.jpg

The wheel is not in great shape, but that is part of the charm.  It looks like it could have been on the car since 1972.  😀  This wheel was on my coupe when I bought it eight years ago.  Perhaps it was on that car nearly that long.

  • Like 8

Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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On 8/5/2023 at 3:29 PM, ray_ said:

Naw. The mixture remained the same. You just altered the application.

 

 

I suppose you're right, Ray.  I hadn't thought of it that way.

 

Yesterday, I splurged and bought three feet of 5/16" fuel hose to redo the section between the firewall and pump.  I put a large fuel filter there and it made it difficult to see the timing hole in the bell housing; so my plan was to eliminate that filter, since I have a Jeep filter after the pump. 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.36b857349c1a050f274ffe5666bf145f.jpeg

 

I thought the clear filter was clean, until I pulled it out and saw that the crud had simply settled to the bottom where I couldn't see it.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.45ad47be9eb0ea108ff4305f8dfdd34d.jpeg

 

I decided to put a smaller filter back in and managed to route the hoses so it stays out of the way. 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.0df3ad5bfae682d8e25d32865402fe9b.jpeg

 

I also took the hose out from behind the air filter mount to get it away from the heat in the head.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.61738041ef2e6621edd5d9c8775fc49f.jpeg

 

I placed a parts order yesterday, which included a new CSB; so I think I have everything I need to install the other rubber bits I own, to finally refresh the rear subframe.  I have new differential, transmission and engine mounts to put in as well.  The "while I am in there" list is very long though, so I'm not sure when I'll have time to take it all apart.  I'll probably wait until winter, so I can continue to drive the car. 

 

I recently noticed an oil leak up front, so a crankshaft seal was included in the order.  I may need to do that fix sooner than later if it gets any worse.  That's a messy place for an oil leak, since it slings droplets in all directions.  I'm afraid the leak is due to the oil pressure relief valve sticking, which seems like a pain in the butt to fix.  I'm going to have to search the archives to see what's involved.  There's no shortage of fun to be had!


Tom

Edited by '76mintgrün'02
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I started with filling up the big hole we made to replace the whole rear right subframe point.

We had already made a new floor panel but somehow I missed and drilled the hole in the wrong spot so the subframe bushing wasn't sitting in the center at all, although it wouldn't have mattered, it bothered me..

 

So new panel was made and marked out the hole again, this time it's a lot better

I already welded it in and ground the welds down, ready for the next step! (welding in the subframe point and inner sill)

spacer.png

 

With the help of some box section clamped on to the inner sill I made sure the flange of the floor was sitting in the correct location for when we weld in the inner sill

spacer.png

 

I also trimmed the excess of the rear flange at the wheel well but forgot to take pictures..

spacer.png

  • Like 6
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