What did you do to your 2002 today !

[0257]

Just now, its55 said:

 

How is your joint between and header and exhaust including the gasket ring there?

Great point.  Use red heat gasket goo (Permatex makes a version) at each joint.  Between muffler mid-section and rear section notorious for leaking, and it’s right under the trunk.

[MauiBob]

6 hours ago, johnnyb said:

Not so much today as the last few weeks:  Installed a turn signal cancelling ring my car was missing, made and installed a horn ground across the steering coupler (horn works now!), and replaced battery power and ground cables.  I added silicone covers to the positive terminals after an arc'ing incident with a wrench near the starter.  Not sure I love them visually- perhaps I'll swap them for black later.  I still need to clean up the wires against the left fender after this job, but I want to put in an aux. fuse block to get rid of some of the inline fuses before I call it done.  

 

One thing I'm not sure about is what the short lead from the new factory positive lead (BMW p/n 12-42-1-732-447, which replaces 12-42-1-732-447 that had only one lead to the starter).  It's too short to reach the alternator, so I'm not sure what it is intended for.  I put heat shrink over it and tie-wrapped it to the starter lead. 

 

While replacing the negative lead, I scuffed the engine block mounting point with scotchbrite, and now the engine starts with barely a bump of the key!  It turns out fundamentals such as clean grounds do make a difference!  

Heres what I did, put battery in trunk, grounded to body back there and have the + wire running to this cheapo Bus bar, gonna replace it when I can find one

 

 

[johnnyb]

6 hours ago, beammmer said:

Please show wiring under the red positive cover.  This is one area needs cleaning up on my car.

@beammmer Here's what it looks like under my positive terminal cover.  It's the new factory cable, with the alternator+ignition cables ring-lugged and connecting to the screw terminal on the side.  I've also got a ring-lugged cable going to my headlight relays since my car has H4 headlights.  

 

    An upcoming project is probably going to be to run the short factory lead (I still don't know what it's intended use is) to a terminal block and move the alternator and headlight wires there.  

[johnnyb]

@OldRoller - congratulations on the first (recent) drive!  As much as i enjoy working on my '02, I enjoy driving her even more. Glad to see you're soon to be road-worthy! 

 

Can you tell me where the circled cable goes on your positive battery cable?  That's the same one I can't figure out what to do with on my '71.  

[popovm]

Tried some pinch tuck metal shrinking like the cool kids do on youtube. I was trying to bend this flanged patch piece. The bend unfortunately didn’t persist. The panel bent right back when I tried to hammer down the tucks so I reverted back to the tried and true method of cutting slots in the flange, bending in the radius, and then welding closed the cuts. I may try again if I ever need to do something similar. This piece is getting welded in tomorrow! If I can get these last two patches and the floorpan welded in I might just barely make it to the Seattle ‘02 meet. 
 

 

[bergie33]

Well, I got the front passenger floor pan removed. It was a little rough going at the front right corner. I didn't realize there was a solid weld between the floor pan and both sides of the frame rail in that area; I  thought it was all spot welds. There was also a tab, about 2.5" x 3" welded between the floor pan and bottom of the firewall? I assume it wasn't part of a previous repair as it looked original. (See last pic below).

 

Anyway, I did ok. The frame rail will need some cleaning up of the old spot welds and a couple holes welded back up where I drilled too deep. It was my first attempt at body work.  Don't shame me, please.  Now I need to cut the new pan to fit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[OldRoller]

10 hours ago, johnnyb said:

Can you tell me where the circled cable goes on your positive battery cable?

That lead goes to the main car harness wire. I connected an 80 amp Maxi fuse inline to protect the car's wiring in case of a major short.

 

 

 

Plans are for an auxilliary positive bus bar (for added stuff eventually) fed off the car side of the fuse. 

[chargin]

Today spent plugging in bits and reworking some plumbing and wiring routing, it takes so much time 

 

moving the relay box required rewiring 40% of the box

moved the fuel filter for ease of maintenance 

new hose fittings to arrive today 

it all fits tightly 

[D.martijn]

15 hours ago, popovm said:

Tried some pinch tuck metal shrinking like the cool kids do on youtube. I was trying to bend this flanged patch piece. The bend unfortunately didn’t persist. The panel bent right back when I tried to hammer down the tucks so I reverted back to the tried and true method of cutting slots in the flange, bending in the radius, and then welding closed the cuts. I may try again if I ever need to do something similar. This piece is getting welded in tomorrow! If I can get these last two patches and the floorpan welded in I might just barely make it to the Seattle ‘02 meet. 
 

 

 

Getting one of those cheap shrinker and stretchers are pretty good to shrink small plates.
Always comes in handy for other repairs as well

[D.martijn]

14 hours ago, bergie33 said:

Well, I got the front passenger floor pan removed. It was a little rough going at the front right corner. I didn't realize there was a solid weld between the floor pan and both sides of the frame rail in that area; I  thought it was all spot welds. There was also a tab, about 2.5" x 3" welded between the floor pan and bottom of the firewall? I assume it wasn't part of a previous repair as it looked original. (See last pic below).

 

Anyway, I did ok. The frame rail will need some cleaning up of the old spot welds and a couple holes welded back up where I drilled too deep. It was my first attempt at body work.  Don't shame me, please.  Now I need to cut the new pan to fit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tap on your last picture is indeed original - it was used to transport the car in the factory if I'm not mistaken.
Most people remove it as it's prone to trap moisture and causes it to rust again.

[Eissmann]

20 hours ago, its55 said:

 

How is your joint between and header and exhaust including the gasket ring there?

I’m not too savvy on exhaust systems but they look old and tired to me. Could not get a clear picture of the header to exhaust joint but here’s the tailpipe joint underneath the trunk area. And then a picture of the joint between the header and tailpipe 

['76mintgrün'02]

29 minutes ago, Eissmann said:

they look old and tired to me.

 

Looks good from here.  I had to lengthen the tail pipe on mine too.  That eliminated the exhaust smell inside the cabin.

 

 

[OldRoller]

The 76 is nearing roll time. The myriad things to complete seem to increase the more you do. But... Lights in, most wiring done. 

Now to find the 4 speed leak of essential fluid, find the turn signal leakage (juice is going somewhere), Rockers, yada yada yada.

All in all it's been mostly smooth. Immense pleasure has been had working on these autos, more so than the driving... ah hell, who am I kidding... IT"S ALL ABOUT THE DRIVING! 

 

 

 

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[popovm]

11 hours ago, D.martijn said:

 

Getting one of those cheap shrinker and stretchers are pretty good to shrink small plates.
Always comes in handy for other repairs as well

Looks like you can get into those for only $150 or so. Pretty cool. I’ll have to look into it more. 

 

I drilled the final plug weld holes and tacked in this firewall/footwell patch panel. All I had time and energy for tonight. After all my work on the flange, it somehow grew and I ended with the gap on the upper right. Will have to fill it in with MIG or weld in a tiny filler piece there. 
 

@bergie33, check that hole in the frame rail. You’re not the only one that gets a little heavy with the spot weld cutter. 😁

Edited January 26 by popovm

[kbmb02]

Prepped and installed a new set of E-12 domed 9.8:1 forged 4032-alloy pistons.