What did you do to your 2002 today !

[AceAndrew]

Nearing completion on another mini-project!  Wanted a fun ID tag in similar dimensions/style to the original vin plate.  As shown in the sketch, this will sit right above the original, right where the paint sticker was.

 

I sent the sketch off to Neil at Decal Spec.  He turned it into a vector image.  I then failed a couple of attempts of laser engraving using the machine at work and reached out to Callum at Retropower in the UK.  He was kind enough to slip in the job between their other project’s ID plates!

 

Very excited to have it stateside and on the car soon.

 

[Greg R aka Big_Lebowski]

Drove Stella to our Austin area 2002 July C&C this morning.  A few pics…

 

[zinz]

It was a good meetup this morning. Lots of 2002s and some new faces. 
 

 

Michael is fairly new to the group and the dash clock in his Tii was non- op. I volunteered to fix, so he had removed it and handed it off to me this morning. I got home after our lunch and took it apart. Cleaned it up, resoldered the fuseable link, a couple drops of clock oil and put it back together. Put a 12v battery on it… “Make the noise…!” Clunk…tick, tick, tick, tick…

 

 

Was a good day

 

Ed Z

[d.hitchcock]

Howdy, Jim! We spoke at 02 Fest. Cheers, sir.

[autokunst]

10 hours ago, zinz said:

I volunteered to fix, so he had removed it and handed it off to me this morning. I got home after our lunch and took it apart. Cleaned it up, resoldered the fuseable link, a couple drops of clock oil and put it back together. Put a 12v battery on it… “Make the noise…!” Clunk…tick, tick, tick, tick…

 

My ti clock (same clock, chrome bezel) is working now but I am intrigued by the clock oil comment.  Are these easy(ish) to open up to lubricate?  Or is the normal operation to wait until it breaks and then operate?

[zinz]

2 hours ago, autokunst said:

Or is the normal operation to wait until it breaks and then operate?

I would not open a functioning clock. This one had only minor buildup on one pivot point. 
 

Not sure why these electromechanical mechanisms pop their fuseable link, but that seems to be the typical failure. It’s easily remedied once you get it opened up. 
 

Removing the bezel off the front of the clock is the tricky bit. It’s aluminum crimped over the edge of the case. One needs to patiently work around that edge to open it enough. I’m sure there is some special tool for this, but I’ve always used a small screwdriver and work my way around until it is free. 
 

Again, I wouldn’t open one that’s working. 
 

Ed Z

[D.martijn]

 Some more progress on the diff panel.

 

My brother finished welding all the little reinforcement plates onto the mounting brackets.

It looks very nice, if I say so my self.

Touring specific

 

Touring and sedan brackets

 

After work last week we also started on spot welding the Touring panel together.

For now we only spot welded the touring specific bracket onto the panel as we first need to finish the 1st side of the sedan panel as well, before rearranging the welding fixture.

After spot welding the first panel, we presented it on the car and took a couple measurements and it looks spot on. As well as fitting it onto the assembled subframe and differential that are currently setup on the fixture table, the panel sits perfectly centered between both subframe bushings.

 

 

 

To weld the sedan panel, I needed to make a shorter electrode for it to be able to sneak in the panel to spot weld the brackets. Since I planned to make a couple of new electrode arms for the spotwelded some time ago, I also made those today.

First up was milling an off-center electrode, I also made a centered pair.

 

Next up I used the manual lathe to mill the section that the spotwelder clamps onto.

 

After some CAM programming with Hypermill, and doing a quick simulation check so I have no collisions.

We are ready to mill the holes into the elektrode arms.

 

Last step was to Wire EDM an slot so we can clamp the electrodes by flexing the material together.

In the end I made the section between the electrode hole and end of the arm 3mm smaller since it was pretty hard to clamp the copper electrodes..

 

 

Finished arms, I haven't tested aluminium arms before on the spot welder. Aluminium does conduct a bit less then copper. I guess we'll have to find out. 🤞

[matthewjacob]

On 7/20/2024 at 1:41 PM, AceAndrew said:

Nearing completion on another mini-project!  Wanted a fun ID tag in similar dimensions/style to the original vin plate.  As shown in the sketch, this will sit right above the original, right where the paint sticker was.

 

I sent the sketch off to Neil at Decal Spec.  He turned it into a vector image.  I then failed a couple of attempts of laser engraving using the machine at work and reached out to Callum at Retropower in the UK.  He was kind enough to slip in the job between their other project’s ID plates!

 

Very excited to have it stateside and on the car soon.

 

Very jealous this is really cool idea, and really well executed.

[Eissmann]

I refurbished a charcoal canister that I bought used. An angle grinder took off the rolled edge. My wife (who likes to worry) thought the sparks from grinder were going to start a fire. 

[autokunst]

3 hours ago, zinz said:

Again, I wouldn’t open one that’s working. 

Super.  Thanks for the info.  Works great.  It makes an audible click almost every two minutes, and loses about a minute every week or so. 

[bergie33]

8 hours ago, Eissmann said:

I refurbished a charcoal canister that I bought used. An angle grinder took off the rolled edge. My wife (who likes to worry) thought the sparks from grinder were going to start a fire. 

 

Love it!

[gambitpaul]

I removed the heater box and started disassembly. Surprisingly the valve is in perfect working order. The fresh air flap was rusted stuck. Since that cable is on the same lever as the heater valve I could never turn on the heater. And seemed like I had the original clamps on the little hose.

Hardest part so far was getting those clips off the bottom. Wow this plastic is brittle.

[SplitDash]

3 hours ago, gambitpaul said:

I removed the heater box and started disassembly. Surprisingly the valve is in perfect working order. The fresh air flap was rusted stuck. Since that cable is on the same lever as the heater valve I could never turn on the heater. And seemed like I had the original clamps on the little hose.

 

 

 

 

 

They are a pain in the hole to refresh !
 

Yesterday was a big day for me, rolled the car out for the first time since may 2020 after extensive rust repairs.

Still a long way to go but feels (and looks) good !

 

 

[D.martijn]

10 hours ago, SplitDash said:

 

They are a pain in the hole to refresh !
 

Yesterday was a big day for me, rolled the car out for the first time since may 2020 after extensive rust repairs.

Still a long way to go but feels (and looks) good !

 

 

 

Is that the MVP hood? How's the fitment?

[JKKH]

I'm a fan of using my phone for nav and have struggled to find a good solution for holding my phone.  Splurged on the @Toxin Speed phone mount and installed today.  Ridiculously high quality for a phone mount and integrates beautifully.  Very quick shipping, beautifully made of aluminum (base, arms and ball joint), and lined with a thin 3m foam pad to protect the dash surface.  Very, very nice...if not inexpensive.  Perhaps overkill, but looks great and works better.