What did you do to your 2002 today !

[Mike Nance]

@SydneyTiiit is the IE late model stainless steel exhaust kit. Looks great easy to install. It sticks out from the rear bumper a bit more than I would like. Not sure if it’s supposed to be that way. But I’ll keep it the way it is. I’ll get you a picture from the underside this afternoon when the car is back in the lift. 
 

Stainless Steel Exhaust System – 2002 (LATE STYLE) – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI

WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM

 

Edited August 1 by Mike Nance

[OldRoller]

23 minutes ago, Mike Nance said:

IE late model stainless steel exhaust kit

Nice kit, can't beat it for the money. mine stuck out a bit also (would have been fine for the diving board bunper) so I cut 2.5" off.

The system has a nice tone, not overly loud. At cruising speed it's very quiet. We'll see how long the 'stainless' holds up!

 

[Mike Nance]

@OldRollerI hope the finish holds up. It looks great. I'm going to have to pick up an new stainless steel header now. Any suggestions?

[OldRoller]

I wanted to keep the winter/summer air intake system intact, and I read somewhere (can't find the post now) on the flow rate of stock manifolds vs headers was a minimal increase unless the engine was modded aggressively. The only mods to mine were 9.5 cr piano tops and a Weber, so I stayed with the stock manifold. Not sure my 'butt dyno' could have felt any difference. 

[Eissmann]

Replaced the broken air box mount. Dealer price is $90 each! McMaster Carr has some with same dimensions and they are under $5 each so I bought three!

Top to bottom in picture : broken mount, bmw mount,McMaster 9217K33. 

[its55]

1 hour ago, Eissmann said:

Replaced the broken air box mount. Dealer price is $90 each! McMaster Carr has some with same dimensions and they are under $5 each so I bought three!

Top to bottom in picture : broken mount, bmw mount,McMaster 9217K33. 

 

Did similar!  4 for $10 from Amazon, free shipping. On these I did need to hacksaw a little length off. 

 

 

[dlhoovler]

5 hours ago, Eissmann said:

Replaced the broken air box mount. Dealer price is $90 each! McMaster Carr has some with same dimensions and they are under $5 each so I bought three!

 

Another option I used to keep the same profile as the originals (with the "waist") are the secondary air pump mounts from a circa-E46 Bimmer. They look identical to the air cleaner mounts but are $3 and change from parts houses or eBay. 

[popovm]

Created this janky setup to make my aftermarket horn button work. 
 

 

 

Edited August 1 by popovm

[Mark92131]

Spent 4 hours gluing in my headliner.  Pretty sure I killed a few brain cells in the process.  I'll let it sit for a day or two before attempting to remove the clips.

 

Mark92131

 

 

[OldRoller]

The first iteration of the center console.... I didn't care for the oil and temp gauges up on the dash in a pod and the original Behr center panel was a no go. 

Reused the side panels from the wide console, panel center covered in leather. Cubby underneath is sided and backed. The switch under the AFR is power for same. As Tom said, it's fun to watch the numbers under varying circumstances do their thing. 

Bottom left switch is relay cutout for the Hellas. 

I'll live with it for a while.

[Dudeland]

On 8/1/2024 at 8:48 PM, Mark92131 said:

Spent 4 hours gluing in my headliner.  Pretty sure I killed a few brain cells in the process.  I'll let it sit for a day or two before attempting to remove the clips.

 

Mark92131

 

 

I did that in my bug—such a shitty job.  Take solace in the fact that you are another 25+ years from doing it again. 

 

 

[Dudeland]

On 7/28/2024 at 2:52 PM, tzei said:

Cleaned and put locking unit back together. Rip axle.

Qualfie? 

 

[JamesRamsay]

Currently working through the world's slowest restoration because I have no time or money to throw at the car right now, but I did manage to get a bit done on the last couple of weekends:

 

I pulled the clutch and brake master cylinders out of the car for rebuilding; clutch came easily, brake was a four hour battle. Seized nuts on the engine side that are too close to the barrel of the master cylinder to get a socket on, and then the pin that holds the clevis from the cylinder plunger onto the brake pedal was rust-seized into the pedal itself. I had to pull the driver's seat out, sit on the floorpan, execute a touch-your-toes stretch to lean forward far enough to cut the ends off the pin with a cut-off wheel on my angle grinder... AND IT STILL DIDN'T COME OUT! I ended up having to drill through before it loosened up enough to be hammered out. One of the most gruelling campaigns I've ever participated in with a car 😵

 

I tackled the oil pump yesterday, a much easier job, though still a bit of an ordeal. I have two M10s, a sludgy old bucket of gunk originally from an E12 520 and an extremely nice spare that came out of an '82 E30 318i. The goal is to take the pickup tube from the old engine's pump and marry it to the nice new pump, but unfortunately this is what greeted me when I pulled the old pump apart:

 

 

I threw together a makeshift machining rig out of a pane of glass and some 400 grit sandpaper and carefully set about resurfacing:

 

 

And a couple of hours later I ended up here:

 

 

I didn't get all the way there but these pits were no longer detectable under the fingernail test, and it was at this time that I popped the newer oil pump open and found it had one of those metal plates between the rotors and the pickup tube side anyway, so I'm happy with it.

 

I gave the E30 pump a jolly good clean, brought down some tiny little spots of marring on the rotors, checked the tolerances against the figures in the service manual (all good!), packed the whole thing with assembly grease and bolted it all back together. I also degunked the pressure relief valve and made sure the piston was moving freely. Should be good to pump oil for another 50+ years.

Edited August 4 by JamesRamsay

[tzei]

5 hours ago, Dudeland said:

Qualfie

No, traditional lsd.

[d.hitchcock]

Installed my Danjer extended front control arms, FINALLY!

 

In casual street driving, the turn-in is sharper. Before the front end would wash out a little on turn-in, and it seems like that is gone now.

I have a local autocross in two weeks, and then Solo Nationals in September ... Let's GO!

 

EDIT and update: Got on an alignment rack this week, and the results are interesting!

-2.3 deg camber, and 3.0 deg caster! I was at -0.5 camber. I am not sure of the old caster readings.