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2002 to hibernation


DEZIMADE

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Not an expert by any means. (so please ignore me). 

It cannot hurt to add some Sta-Bil to the gas tank.  

My 2 cents...

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Loose: Not tightly bound. Subject to motion.
Lose: What happens when you are spell check dependent.

 

1975 Malaga. It is rusty and  springs an occasional leak.  Just like me. 

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I've been thinking the same thing lately.  When I cleaned out my gas tank surface rust appeared VERY quickly.  I chalked that up to clean metal devoid of gasoline attracts moisture from the air.  Therefore best to keep the tank full when not in use, or fill the tank regularly during driving season.

 

Right?  Wrong?

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73 Inka Tii #2762958

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Agreed.

 

Ad non-ethanol fuel if you can.

 

And ethanol fuel conditioner if you can't, all the way to the carb (if equipped ;-) )

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Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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Run sta-bil or equivalent ether full or empty todays fuel is no good for long term or even short term storage with out it. My vote would be tank full treated non-ethanol if you can find it in your area. 

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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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I hate to be a contrarian--and perhaps I've been lucky for the past 15-20 years, but stash my 02s all winter (Dec-April) indoors, and sometimes my '69 will sit for 8-9 months without my driving it (I know, shame, shame).  

 

I don't really do too much to prepare the cars for storage other than filling the gas tank, making sure there's plenty of air in the tires and covering the car.  I do check on 'em fairly often, but so far they've always started right up after filling the carb's float chamber with gas and perhaps a battery charge.

 

mike

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'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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I've been advised from mechanics and other friends with car collections to fill the tank, add fuel stabilizer and run the car for 5-10 minutes to get the stabilizer through the fuel lines.  A full tank enables less moisture to form.

 

Fill the tires to max pressure or just over to prevent flat spots

 

Remove the battery or leave it in,but use a high quality battey maintainer like the ones from Deltran "Battery Tender" (amazon carries them).  Don't buy a crappy one as it will hurt more than help.

 

Pretty simple and logical stuff.  I've had no issues following the above for the long cold NH winters with the 2002 and other long term storage cars (and boats and jetskis) both vintage and new.

 

Depressing topic however.  Hate putting the toys to sleep.

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1970 Polaris BMW 2002 - 5 speed

DD: 2013 BMW X5 5.0 M-Sport, M-Performace

 

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Thanks for all the advice. The beauty about this platform is that I was having a [emoji507] saw a cool auto supplier and there it sat on the shelf was the stabilizer!
Thanks for all the feed back. Oh and yes. To put her to sleep is sad .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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16 hours ago, ray_ said:

Agreed.

 

Ad non-ethanol fuel if you can.

 

And ethanol fuel conditioner if you can't, all the way to the carb (if equipped ;-) )

 

Agree with Ray.  I never store mine with out converting to non-ethanol fuel.  I run the engine for several minutes to make sure it is circulated the whole way thru the fuel lines and into the engine.  For those who cant get non-ethanol fuel at a local station you can buy it from VP Racing - Vintage fuels in 5 gallon containers. Since doing this I don't have rust forming in the tank over the winter.

1974 2002tii Restored (Original Owner) #2782393
2013 Porsche C4S Cab (Original Owner)
BMW CCA #23777

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