Paint Match Question

[David Layton]

I have just purchased a 1973 2002tii in Atlantic Blau which will need some body work and a repaint.  I want to match the original BMW color, Atlantik 041. Given we will undoubtedly have to go with a base coat plus clear instead of the old lacquer, what is the best way to get the best color match with the BMW shade?  This is a couple of months in the future, but I am looking ahead.

 

[TobyB]

Pick one you like, and shoot it!

 

Atlantik is hard to match, and over the years, there have been many shades made.  After the fact, of course.  Most

(like what you have now) have too much white in them.  I like it that way, so that's

what I used on mine years back.  It's supposed to be darker.  If it hasn't been shot under

the hood, that's usually still the factory shade.

 

it's all subjective.

t

[Sneeb]

For the last Atlantic blue car we did, PPG gave me a cross reference code for a very close match from a GM which was paint code 3362. Give that a whirl....

[Mike Self]

You'll get a closer representation of what the factory paint looked like if you use a solid color paint (no clearcoat) for non-metallics like Atlantik.  When I had both my Sahara and Nevada cars painted, I had this discussion with my painter--and he was right. "Back in the day" they clear-coated metallics more to protect the metallic paint than for a shinier finish.  

 

 A good paint supplier can spectrographically match your original (unfaded) Atlantik and custom mix paint that will exactly match the original paint that's (presumably) inside your trunk, door edges etc. 

 

Bottom line, though is that it's your car...do what makes you happy, unless you're going for an absolutely concours car.

 

mike

[adawil2002]

Glasurit single stage.

 

Looks like a good Tii you have there.

 

David, please let us know where you are located, it will help us help you. Can ad your location in the user control panel at the top right.

[David Layton]

I really want to stay as close as possible to the original, so i will pursue the Glasurite paint.  It's a BASF company and there are some dealers in the area.

 

Thanks

[Son of Marty]

The 2" square piece that holds the torsion bars for the trunk lid is easy to remove (4 bolts) to take to the paint shop for laser matching. Just don't shut the trunk with the plate off.

[beammmer]

Come see a lot of us.  Not too bad a drive from Chesterfield.

 

 

Don

[Tdh]

Hi David.

 

I’m assuming you won’t be painting the car yourself, is that correct?  If so, do some research and find a shop in your area that does good work.   You’ll be looking for a shop that does custom work.  Most large paint/body shops that do collision/insurance work won’t want any part of your project, and if they do they’ll insist on base/clear systems since that’s what they mix on site and are used to using.  

 

When you you find a shop, let the guy that’s doing the spraying recommend the single stage he likes to shoot.  Most all the single stage urethanes on the market from any of the major manufacturers are really durable and last a long time.  Everyone who paints has their favorite to shoot.  It’s generally best to let the painter you choose make a recommendation from the line offered by the brand he likes.   

[HBChris]

I have used the small bar that attaches to the trunk torsion rod, remove one bolt and you’re good.  Just don’t let the trunk lid hit you in the head! The painter you use will determine what brand of paint he is comfortable with in ost cases.

 

My NK is Atlantik, I love it.

Edited March 7, 2018 by HBChris

[dbmw2002]

Ah yes, the painter, an artist with a gun. The hard part is finding a hired gun who is comfortable with single stage. A rare find and tho I have found two painters who I will let paint my car only one will deal single. You see a single stage painter has to have a set, no room for error, unlike a two stage painter who can cover many mistakes. But when the single stage is nailed you have a work of art. Nothing finer. My 76 Golfie  has 40 year old original paint and shines like a diamond. Lots of dings and I will find that painter that will use the original Glasurite paint and create a masterpiece. 

[zinz]

I chose Glazurit single stage for my 2000CS resto... it's expensive but it's working out nicely. 

 

 

Hood shot and color sanded yesterday 

 

Ed

[TobyB]

Quote

 A good paint supplier can spectrographically match your original (unfaded) Atlantik and custom mix paint that will exactly match the original paint 

...and yet, it will inevitably match light, as in, too much white.  The 'shoot and match' systems are imperfect, at best.

 

A shop with someone who's comfortable doing a real match (measure, mix, test shoot) will be expensive- and that's about the only way to get it 'original',

IF the GM code doesn't match.  It's surprising how often they do.

 

Single stage is easy to shoot.  It just takes more effort for a lesser result.  And done right, it's very hard to tell single from 2- stage.

In fact, in most shops, they'll do a quick sand (the only way to be sure) first, just to make sure what system they're looking at.

 

I learned on single, and shot many cars that way.  Then I tried 2- stage.  I won't go back.  Sand and polish the clear, and the only

way you can tell the difference is from the defects.

 

With good paint in both cases, of course.

 

The usual deal is that the single is $300 of materials, the 2 stage is $1500.  Of COURSE those look different!!!

 

t

not your grandaddy's delstar

[zinz]

4 minutes ago, TobyB said:

The usual deal is that the single is $300 of materials, the 2 stage is $1500.

 

To be clear... Glazurit single stage will NOT be $300... unfortunately 

 

Ed

[Tdh]

TobyB isn't giving you the full story.  

 

If the guy that does the cut and buff on the base/clear system does even a half way decent job there won't be any defects!  It'll look smooth as glass.  

 

I don't mind dealing with a single stage job, I tend to try and talk the owner of the car into a "straight out of the gun, no detail work" expectation of what he's gonna get back.  Color sanding and buffing single stage takes a lot more work and can be frustrating.  

 

Zinz is right too BTW.  Glasurit WILL NOT be $300.