hood torsion bar adjustment?

[DavidLMM]

I just got my '76 out of the paint shop (for the second time, don't ask!) and it seems the propensity of the hood to fall with the slightest bump or puff of air has gotten worse. I've searched the archives, and, while there are excellent posts on adjusting the alignment and gaps on the hood, I don't find much useful about adjusting the spring load to hold the hood up. 

About the only mentions I've found say something to the effect of, "if it wasn't really hard to put it back, you didn't do it right!" and that's really not helping me. It was weak before the shop pulled it for paint, but actually seems weaker now. The blue shop manuals do not seem to address it either. Can anyone enlighten me? Thanks!

 

David

[02Les]

12 minutes ago, DavidLMM said:

I just got my '76 out of the paint shop (for the second time, don't ask!) and it seems the propensity of the hood to fall with the slightest bump or puff of air has gotten worse. I've searched the archives, and, while there are excellent posts on adjusting the alignment and gaps on the hood, I don't find much useful about adjusting the spring load to hold the hood up. 

About the only mentions I've found say something to the effect of, "if it wasn't really hard to put it back, you didn't do it right!" and that's really not helping me. It was weak before the shop pulled it for paint, but actually seems weaker now. The blue shop manuals do not seem to address it either. Can anyone enlighten me? Thanks!

 

David

I'd be interested to know also. I replaced the hood during my Touring's recent refurb. Trying to start the car after it's 12 month sleep, the hood came crashing down. Like yours the torsion appears weak, but I do not know if it can be adjusted.

[TobyB]

Yep, you can tighten it, but you have to do it in massive (180 degree?  I forget) increments.  Basically, you pre-tension each

one by turning the opposite end, wrestling the cap over, it, and capturing it with its preload.  Which is either not enough, as

you find, or murderous, as it needs to be.

And you have to do it twice.

 

If you look in the realoem pic, below, you can just see how the other end of the torsion spring is captured in the end cap.

 

I remember using vice grips, heavy gloves, eye protection, and a lot of caution.  I think it also helps to let the opposite side

spring as far as it can, so that you're not preloading it any harder than you have to.

but it's been a long time since I last did it.  I now no longer take those off if I can possibly avoid it.

 

hth

 

t

 

[jimk]

Swap pc 11 side to side.  It' zinc diecast which creeps under constant high stress load.  You will see what I am saying.  Otherwise buy new ones at $40+ a piece.

[DavidLMM]

When taking a closer look t it today, I notice a fairly loud "click" at almost full open. Is this normal, or is one of the torsion springs broken? I think this car has always had that "crack" when opening the hood.

RealOEM shows two different torsion springs, both shown as #6 on the above drawing. One, #41615480140 and $58, is NLA. the other, #41615480141, is $18 and available. Is one full-length and the other not? Did the $18 one supercede the $58 one? Are there truly two different springs? 

If the answer is, "that's normal" I'll try swapping #11 fairly soon. Leaving for The Mitty tomorrow, so it'll have to wait! 

[irdave]

Prop rod (broom handle) in the mean time?

[DavidLMM]

Telescoping paint roller handle. Just hard to get in the habit. The first unexpected SLAM! really got my attention!

[AustrianVespaGuy]

14 hours ago, jimk said:

Swap pc 11 side to side.  It' zinc diecast which creeps under constant high stress load.  You will see what I am saying.  Otherwise buy new ones at $40+ a piece.

+1, This is free, not terribly difficult, and will almost surely fix that problem!

[DavidLMM]

I'll try it next week. Thanks. Is the "loud click" I mentioned in my last post normal?

[AustrianVespaGuy]

That's could the end of the torsion spring slipping in the worn groove in those end caps. . .

[DavidLMM]

Sounds plausible, I'll definitely check #11 next week. Thanks all.

[DavidLMM]

OK, I finally got around to this yesterday - a reward to myself after mounting a new condenser, fan, Hobie Dave bracket and Sanden 508 on the car. Truth is, I just wanted to stand up for a while!

The pot-metal slug inside one of the ends was completely sheared off and stuck firmly in the connector tube. No wonder it's weak. Steve at BluntTech is going to check on it for me in the morning. Thanks for the tips!

Edited June 18, 2018 by DavidLMM

[Tony731]

Does piece number 8 mount with bolts, or sheet metal screws? Mine has been refinished, and doesn't have threaded holes. It seems like too much force to use screws

[tzei]

You mean end plates/pieces (#11) to hood?

They are sheet metal screws (like used on front fenders).