Best Weber 32/36 Setup Tutorial?

[stubynyc]

Yeah, something if you want to geek out on...I prefer esty's approach.

 

 

Edited June 15, 2018 by stubynyc

[Highnote1]

On this subject...what is a good cap for that vacuum port that will stay in but be removable? Just realized mine does not have one!

[worzella]

Auto parts stores sell containers of various size rubber plugs for a couple bucks

 

Randy

[esty]

a short piece of fuel of vac line with a screw in the end is my favorite approach...because i usually have some small hose around the garage

[worzella]

Hey Backeis.. first off, what's your name? Or made up forum name so we can greet you in posts

 

First off, that PDF Weber guide is awesome but overkill for starting out. I do not have access to my books and notes at the moment, but this is the one pager from Weber about initial setup of the idle and mix. Take a read or 3 and we'd be happy to walk you through it. Mind the all-CAPS warnings about being gentle when seating screws full in.

 

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm

 

Next question.. do you have the Haynes repair manual for the 2002 and the BMW service manual. Former is cheap on Amazon and latter is posted on the forum all over or I can send. Both really are required for all levels of ownership and will help you greatly.

 

And to your other remarks:

 

                "New terms for me. What's "dwell", and how do I adjust valves "dead on"? Timing I'm somewhat familiar with (there's supposed to be                              marks on the distributor for what angle to ideally set it to, right?)."

 

Google for better info, but roughly:

 

Dwell - This is time (or angle) that the points stay open (or closed?) which defines how your coil is energized before the spark is generated. But if you are running an electric setup like Pertronix/Hotspark, this is fixed and nothing to adjust.

 

Valve adjust - Think James Bond... 0.007" is where I set mine and the spec says between 6 and 8. If you have never adjusted valves, time to acquire this new skill, but might want to do your first time with a knowledgeable friend to check your work. You just need a set of feeler gauges and a 10mm wrench (as I recall) and a certain size allen wrench to fit in the eccentric hole. Basically, the cam lobes push on a bar that has a fixed pivot (think like a teeter-totter) and the other end of this bar pushes on the valve stem to open it. On the valve stem side there is an adjustment (the 0.007")that ensures that the valve is opened just the right amount. If the gap it too big, the valve does not open enough and you don't get the fuel/air and exhaust amounts you need... to small a gap and the valve does not seat and they can't cool and will burn up.

 

Timing - this is basically done by loosening the clamp bolt a bit (still snug) on the distributor shaft and rotating the whole dizzy to get the proper moment where the spark fires in the cylinder. To soon and you do not have enough fuel/air compression in the cylinder and too late and  .. well I can't recall, but that is bad too - ha ha.

 

And how do you tell what is the right spot.. that is where a variable timing light comes in and either the marks on the front crank pulley or the marks on the flywheel you see through the tranny sight hole will align at certain RPMs and you can rotate the dizzy body to achieve this alignment.

 

OK, I have probably confused you even more, but keep reading and it starts to make sense.

 

And if you buy an Innova variable timing light, forum member Zinz will fly to your house and give you a hug and help you out!!!! 

 

Randy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[backeis]

Thanks Randy! I'm Erik

Installation so far is going good. Got the new carb on, throttle linkage connected, and that little red surgical tube (for vacuum I guess?).



Now 3 quick questions for you all:

1) Can I move the fuel line connector to the other side? Is that what those two unused inlets are for? My fuel line is coming from the left.


2) My old carb had another tube going into it on the fuel inlet side. I have no idea if it carries fuel. Has no filters on it. Previous carb was used for a Cali emissions setup. Here's a photo of the old one. I don't see a place for it on the new carb.

It's the tube on the top.

3) Where on the alternator do I connect the choke to? The previous carb was electric too but wasn't connected... And there's this wire dangling from the alternator. Is that the one? Or is this a loose ground wire?


Also, why is there this 1/2" hole in one corner of the bottom of the air cleaner box? With that little 90 degree white plastic tube. Does that connect to anything? 

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Edited June 15, 2018 by backeis

[esty]

you can swap the inlet side of the fule line

[backeis]

Great. Done! Any idea what that other fuel line looking tube was doing on the old carb? It's pretty long and disappears into the bottom section of the engine bay, connecting somewhere under the steering box. Is it a return line for unused fuel? I don't see another nozzle on the 32/36 where it could connect.


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[backeis]

Did some googling. 32/36 DGEV don't need return lines (?). So I guess I'll just plug it and leave it for now? Short of tearing it all out...


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[backeis]

Connected choke (yellow cable) to where I already saw a cable coming off. Hope that's right




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[worzella]

Nice to meet you Erik!

 

Indeed.. that top line to the carb was a fuel return line that snaked its way back under the car and connected to a connector on your fuel tank. There was some sort of relay under the hook that would switch from sending fuel TO the carb versus sending fuel BACK to the tank. Part of emissions over the years and you don't have to worry about it. Some people use it.. mine is gone and I have no issues.But make sure that extra nipple on your as tank is plugged. Send pix of your tank for fun too.

 

The "vacuum I guess" is indeed a vac line that should connect to your distributor and aids in the timing advance. Your distributor has centripetal.. centrifugal... rotational mechanical advance and also there is an added component of vacuum advance under certain conditions. Send some pix of your dizzy next post so we can see what you have there too.

 

That frayed wired dangling from your alt is 100% mandatory and is a major ground point for the charging circuit. I'd buy some new same gauge wire and solder some round ends on it and re-attach it to the alt and the other end goes to one of the front timing cover nuts... timing cover is the thing on the front of the motor behind the fan and has nuts up and down the left and right side holding it on. Use sand paper to rough up the metal a bit where you put this wire so there is a good clean connection.

 

And finally, that hole on the carb lower plate with the L conn is for connecting a hose from it to the vent connector on your valve cover. Your engine can't be 100% air tight so it has to breath and the valve cover has a connector built into it that lets air/pressure equalize. But some exhaust gas and other stuff collects under the valve cover and the tube to the carb bottom allows the pressure/vacuum to suck that stuff into the carb and re-burn it. 

 

OK.. keep the questions and pix coming

 

Randy 

 

 

 

 

[backeis]

Thanks again, Randy!

• For now I plugged the return line.
• The alt is grounded to the engine. That frayed wire was extra - maybe it used to go to Cali emissions junk?
• Am I fine without connecting valve cover to carb? I don't see an unused or open connector on the valve cover anyways... It's always been like that.

 

[worzella]

That choke wire should be a switched 12v, meaning it is hot with 12v when the car is running, but not all of the time. I am not sure what that place you connected to is providing, but go buy a digital multimeter so you can know what voltages and currents are provided by these other wires. 

 

And how the choke works is that the circular plastic section on the side of the carb has a metallic coil that is sensitive to heat and when you start your car, the current flowing through it causes the coil to expand. My other post about the fast idle goes into this. But you need 12v otherwise it will not expand as designed and your butterflies on your carb may not fully open or take much longer if < 12v.

 

 

[worzella]

Yes - plugging line is fine

 

Unless you have another wire somewhere, the alt IS NOT grounded to the engine because it is mounted with rubber isolation bushings so alt body is not grounded in any way. That is the point of this short pigtail to the timing cover. 

 

No you don't need that hose from valve cover to carb... 

 

Eventually you can clean up all the clutter

[backeis]

Thank you!

 

Well, here's a success: car started first try with the unmodified carb! Gonna try some light tuning of the idle and mix screws now.