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New 2002 but couple of questions


Skurvilla

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Nice carb setup--but they look like they could use a rebuild.  They're most like 40mm sidedrafts--a desirable setup.  Hard to tell about the wire, but if you have a later (mid-72 or later) car, it's probably for an idle jet solenoid that was fitted to some (but not all) OEM Solex two barrel downdraft carbs to prevent dieseling (run-on) after engine shutdown.  You can tell by hooking a voltmeter to it.  If it's live only with the ignition on, then that's probably its function.

 

Oh, and don't forget to plug those holes where the fuel pump used to go on the cylinder head--they'll spray oil all over the place when you start up the engine.  Blanking plates are available through the FAQ store.

 

And speaking of no keys--if you get down under the dash and look on the back side of the ignition switch--if you're lucky, you'll find a white paper label with a number/letter combination on it.  That's the key code for the switch; a BMW dealer should be able to have a key made to fit.  Failing that, remove a door handle--the same label is stuck to the back of the handle (inside the door).  Or you can take the door handle to  locksmith and have him make a new key.  Much easier than removing the ignition switch, and the car should have the same key to operate both doors and the ignition.  Trunk key is different.

 

Welcome to the fraternity/sorority--lotsa good info on the board and archives--including how to get at that door handle!

 

cheers

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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That wire that is in your hands looks more like the starter solenoid wire which came from the ignition switch and engaged the solenoid and the starter. Only sayin that as the gauge of wire is rather large for the idle solenoid cut off valve. And coming from the loom under the intake manifold.
Matt


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Yeah, sweet dual Weber DCOE side-drafts. Some people hate trying to tune them, but I live them and wouldn’t want anything else.

How much do you know about this car? If it’s running dual side drafts, then there’s a good chance it has a high-perf cam and pistons, too.

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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So I just purchased this car from my cousin and he got the car about 6 years ago from a guy in NJ. My cousin didn't do anything to it as it was running very well, then one day he went for a drive around the block and then it died in front of his house and I think that this loose wire was the culprit of that. It stopped working in the first month he bought it less than 50 miles, and then it sat for 6 years and now I just graduated and I decided I wanted a new challenge and was hoping to get this awesome car on the road again. It does need some work in the rust department like a new floor on the driver's side and a new trunk and little bits of rust here and there. But I was hoping I can get her running within the next month or so. @Kfunk I Def think the previous owner was upgrading it because of the momo steering wheel. 

@Schnellvintage ill deff look at the starter tomorrow to see if this could be the problem it stopped working in front of his house 

 

** the car looks really good wet when you don't see the fading/unpolished paint

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From the "spaced out" rear bumper it appears to be a '73--those rear bumper brackets are unique to the US 73s.  The VIN would fall somewhere between 25847xx and 2593704.  An e-mail to BMW Classic in Germany (address is in the FAQ archives) will score you the car's build date and original color--I'm sure it's the pictured Malaga--although Malaga cars had tobacco/caramel interiors.

 

The floor rust you picture is not uncommon in salt country--salt slush tracked in on the driver's feet did the deed.  You should be able to repair by patching--and it looks like you'll need new ball studs in the floor to hold the accelerator pedal.  

 

And with some judicious cleaning/buffing, that paint will shine up remarkably (just not the rust spot on the trunk lid!)

 

cheers

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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Nice buy!!  

Before you hook up the solenoid wire to the starter, you might want to pull the spark plugs and squirt some MMO or just regular oil in the cylinders and turn it over by hand a few times.  Also, pull the valve cover off and give a little squirt of the same on all the moving parts of the cam. Doing this will also give you a chance to look at the cam, if it's not a stock cam, might be a good indication of other high performance parts lurking inside!

 

TK

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Life's a garden baby, dig it.

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75 Fjord

73 RHD Targa

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You guys are so much help! 

 

Yea so after those pictures were taken I filled the rad with distilled water and today my plan is to attempt to change the oil as well as maybe remove the fuel from the tank as it has been sitting in there for 6 years. or should I wait for the oil change?

 

As for the Keys I have already taken the door handle off ! but my cousin informed me that when he got the car he got 4 different keys, 1 for the ignition 1 for the door 1 for the trunk and 1 for the gas tank!

 

So next is ignition key I have gone through the books and have gone through the FAQ but can't really find out where to start or can someone link me to one if I'm just missing it entirely, I will try again today to see if that paper is there.

 

For the Carbs, I know this is looking forward a lot but is there a rebuild kit I should look for? 

Will come back with more info on the carb today as well 

 

 

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OK, and so a starter wire falling off would prevent it from starting, but it wouldn't stop the car while its going down the road.  

 

Notice you also have an electric fuel pump there in the engine bay, and a regulator.  If a wire fell off it, that'd absolutely stop you while cruising along.  The bare wire you're holding doesn't look much like a homemade connection for the pump, but who knows what they did?  The only other wires that'd stop you from cruising are the power wire going to the ignition coil on the other side of the engine, and the wires going between the coil and the distributor. 

When you turn the key on, before starting it, you should hear a lot of noise coming from that pump.  If you don't hear any noise from it, you'll need to connect it to 12V+ power somehow, maybe that wire if it has power on it with ignition on, or just jump a wire to the battery.  Gotta have that making noise and pumping fuel, starter spinning, and then you'll get through your first problems.  You'll have many more later, but this is a start.

You'll also be told thats a junky/noisy facet style electric fuel pump setup in the wrong place, etc.  Nobody likes 'em much, but they tend to be whats on hand at the parts store and they'll do the job OK enough.  Stock style is a mechanical pump in the head, which is hard to fit with those DCOE carbs.  You ideally want a high volume low pressure fuel pump (Carter is a popular one, but I prefer the one from Ireland Engineering) mounted in the trunk.  If your facet pump works though, it'll get you going OK enough for a while.

Edited by KFunk

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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Malaga! Nice!

 

Do you have the front bumper?

 

If the paint is thick enough consider wet sand/buffing..

 

Personally I'd take those carbs apart and clean 'em if it was running pretty good before it died.

 

I once bought a "non running" 2002 and it turned out the points had come loose

 

..so def' check for spark after going through the fuel system.

 

Edited by iinca
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More questions, 

 

So I took off the valve cover and noticed a patched whole and then I hit it with a screwdriver and I noticed a small hole *see pic* so when I squeezed the radiator hose a coolant come up into that area. the unhooked the cooking system and flushed out all the antifreeze, my question is can I use something like JB weld to patch this hole or did I need to pull the motor and get it welded? 

 

Also, the loose wire was definitely from the starter and found where it came from was pretty excited about finding that!

 

And for the purposes of the key, the bottom of the steering wheel off and saw the white sticker with the codes is it possible to get the key made by someone online?

Does anyone here do that? 

 

Because I went to a local locksmith and he said he would have to come out to where the car is located to make a key which would be 250$, which seems rather high,  as well as not what everyone else on the forums said

 

 

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Quote

I filled the rad with distilled water 

 

That hole is most likely your water jacket.  If it was patched, try re- patching it.  Sure, JB weld, or some other epoxy.  You'll

need to clean the coolant and oil off really well to have it stick.

 

Now the bad news- if there's a corrosion hole there, in that spot on the head, the rest of the internal passages in the head are not going to be pretty, either.  Thus,

try to patch it and get it running, see how you like the car and what else it needs.

 

Because when you eventually pull the head, odds are you'll need a new one.

 

Aluminum/iron engines need fresh coolant/anti- corrosion to stay intact.  Otherwise, the head rots.

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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