New 2002 but couple of questions

[02Les]

42 minutes ago, Skurvilla said:

 

And for the purposes of the key, the bottom of the steering wheel off and saw the white sticker with the codes is it possible to get the key made by someone online?

Does anyone here do that? 

 

It's been a good few years since I did this, but, armed with the title for the car and the key code, take it to a BMW Dealer and they should be able to get you a key.

This is assuming no one has changed the ignition tumbler in the past.

[Skurvilla]

Just now, 02Les said:

It's been a good few years since I did this, but, armed with the title for the car and the key code, take it to a BMW Dealer and they should be able to get you a key.

 This is assuming no one has changed the ignition tumbler in the past.

do you remember how much this cost you? 

[02Les]

Just now, Skurvilla said:

do you remember how much this cost you? 

It was like, 10 years ago......maybe $20~$25. Nothing from BMW is cheap☹️.

They will need to see the Title to show that you own the car.

[bluehills2002]

Quote

. .to follow up on this thread I started:  I called a few locksmiths in the Boston area and struggled to find someone who could grasp that 2002 was the model, not the year.  I found one guy in East Boston who claimed he could cut me a key for $40.  I gave up and ordered from Ebay seller rfturado1 as suggested by pdx above.  The key arrived in three days and works great.  It appears to be aluminum, not steel.  Total cost with shipping:   $23.56 ($10.61 for the blank and $12.95 for the cut).  Thanks pdx.

 



If you found that sticker you are way ahead of the game.  If the dealer does not work out, here's what I did, based on advice from pdx02. 

[Dudeland]

Nice carb setup--but they look like they could use a rebuild.  They're most like 40mm sidedrafts--a desirable setup.  Hard to tell about the wire, but if you have a later (mid-72 or later) car, it's probably for an idle jet solenoid that was fitted to some (but not all) OEM Solex two barrel downdraft carbs to prevent dieseling (run-on) after engine shutdown.  You can tell by hooking a voltmeter to it.  If it's live only with the ignition on, then that's probably its function.
 
Oh, and don't forget to plug those holes where the fuel pump used to go on the cylinder head--they'll spray oil all over the place when you start up the engine.  Blanking plates are available through the FAQ store.
 
And speaking of no keys--if you get down under the dash and look on the back side of the ignition switch--if you're lucky, you'll find a white paper label with a number/letter combination on it.  That's the key code for the switch; a BMW dealer should be able to have a key made to fit.  Failing that, remove a door handle--the same label is stuck to the back of the handle (inside the door).  Or you can take the door handle to  locksmith and have him make a new key.  Much easier than removing the ignition switch, and the car should have the same key to operate both doors and the ignition.  Trunk key is different.
 
Welcome to the fraternity/sorority--lotsa good info on the board and archives--including how to get at that door handle!
 
cheers
mike

Depending how worn your ignition switch is, you may be able to use a spoon lol


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[Skurvilla]

1 hour ago, bluehills2002 said:

If you found that sticker you are way ahead of the game.  If the dealer does not work out, here's what I did, based on advice from pdx02. 

 

Can you link me to his seller page, I cant find it on ebays website 

[FunkyLaneO]

I had keys made by https://www.key-men.com/  they were steel keys and they worked perfectly from the codes I sent them.  Not super cheap but none of the local locksmiths would do steel keys and they charged a whole lot more than what I paid.

[bluehills2002]

Search "keys cut to code european classics" in Ebay Motors and Rfurtado1 should pop up.  I just tried it.  He is out of New Bedford MA, so not far from you.

[John_in_VA]

2 minutes ago, bluehills2002 said:

Search "keys cut to code european classics" in Ebay Motors and Rfurtado1 should pop up.  I just tried it.  He is out of New Bedford MA, so not far from you.

 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=rfurtado1&_from=R40&_trksid=p2499338.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC2.A0.H0.Xbmw.TRS2.TSS5&_nkw=bmw&_sacat=0

Edited August 1, 2018 by John_in_VA
better link

[02Les]

14 hours ago, John_in_VA said:

 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=rfurtado1&_from=R40&_trksid=p2499338.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC2.A0.H0.Xbmw.TRS2.TSS5&_nkw=bmw&_sacat=0

Hmmm, so you can get a key cut without showing proof of car ownership. Somewhat scary.

[Skurvilla]

So I brought the door handle to the locksmith as well as the number underneath the ignition and none of them work!

While the door handle was with the locksmith he said that the inner tumbler was corroded that when he, when to put the key in it fell into his hand, so it seems now I am a hunt for a new tumbler or a whole new door handles. 

 

I was told by my cousin that the previous owner changed the whole steering column does this mean that the code underneath the ignition is invalid?  

 

The locksmith said that the key should work in the other door handle but that is not the case so it seems I'm out 80$ and nothing works so fun weekend. 

 

 On a brighter topic the jb weld cured and is hard so hopefully, that will hold once figure out the key situation. 

 

does anyone just sell the door tumbler itself? 

and I tried to pull the Ignition tumbler and can't seem to pull it out even with using the 1.8 punch and hammer technique, anyone have any tips? 

 

and before I start the car should I pull out the gas tank and clean it with like Por-15 or should I wait till after I get it started? 

 

 

 

[Simeon]

If you tap the roll pin on the ignition barrel too far it can start to catch on the inside face and stop you removing it. I prefer to use a small, sharp self tapping screw. Wind it into the pin so that it bites and then pull with pliers. Assuming it has enough of a bite this will allow it to be pulled free. The benefit is that you get the roll pin back to secure your new lock barrel. 

 

As for the tank, take the sender out of the top first and peer in with a flashlight (I nearly said torch, I definitely don’t mean torch... not a torch). 

 

If you have crud crud in the bottom, you will see it plus you can examine the screen at the end of the pickup tube on the sender. 

[Skurvilla]

On 8/13/2018 at 5:56 PM, Simeon said:

If you tap the roll pin on the ignition barrel too far it can start to catch on the inside face and stop you removing it. I prefer to use a small, sharp self tapping screw. Wind it into the pin so that it bites and then pull with pliers. Assuming it has enough of a bite this will allow it to be pulled free. The benefit is that you get the roll pin back to secure your new lock barrel. 

 

 

1

So I feel maybe I went too far as I can't seem to even pull it out with vise grips, I smothered it in penetrating liquid yet still can get it out. what should I do next? 

[stone02]

one key should work the ignition

and both handles. the trunk key

is separate and a different configuration.

the gas cap is separate too. that being

said, i can offer you several choices;

used column to install with two keys,

new ignition assembly with two keys,

or new unused lock set for column and

door handles all keyed the same.

[Einspritz]

I wonder why the floor is rusted through.

 

perhaps the windshield gasket, door gaskets or antenna needs to be checked out?