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1602 Brake mst cylinder


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2 hours ago, ShakeyC said:

Have you got engine upto temp yet or just cold start?

 

Not much adjustment apart from idle mix screw and idle speed screw so follow steps above to rule out the common faults. Idle mix screw halfway out and idle speed all the way in and slowly undo until it starts.

 

High idle is either timing too advanced, butterfly not closing fully at rest and vacuum leaks.

 

If no better then check fuel float level and fuel pressure near carb as possible with a suitable fuel pressure gauge. If there is a problem work backwards down the fuel line towards the tank to find it, blocked breather at fuel filler neck also causes similar choke like problem.

 

The last resort would be strip the carb and double checking jet sizes and clean everything up, thankfully they are easiest carb to rebuild at home without special tools. Remember never use gasket scraper on mating faces or wire to poke down the jets.

 

 

 

 Don't want to risk it running too long at extremely high revs, it also annoys the neighbours?.

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It shouldn’t be (even fast) idling at ‘extremely high revs’. 

 

Maybe try cleaning out the idle jet as this could be blocked and stopping it from idling properly. 

 

You can also find instructions as to how you can adjust the fast idle when the choke is in. This only needs to be 1,500 - 2,000 rpm. EDIT: That’s 2,100 rpm according to that last ‘instruction sheet’. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Simeon

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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14 hours ago, Littleeagle28 said:

 

 Don't want to risk it running too long at extremely high revs, it also annoys the neighbours?.

The silent jobs first then check timing, condensor with test light/multimeter and take air filter off and look down at throttle body butterfly.

 

Then engine needs to be running at operating temp to go any further to diagnose or setup its impossible otherwise were just guessing here and there.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have sourced a replacement MC, however the mounting holes for the bulkhead are at 3 oclock and 9 oclock, whereas the original MC is at say 11 oclock and 5 oclock.

 

If I were to mount the new MC, holes would be rotated somewhat.  Would this be a problem, would the gravity fed pipes leak when joining the MC at this angle, or is it no problem?  The copper brake lines are not an issue, just the feed in pipes.

 

Cheers for any helpful notions.

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8 hours ago, Littleeagle28 said:

I have sourced a replacement MC, however the mounting holes for the bulkhead are at 3 oclock and 9 oclock, whereas the original MC is at say 11 oclock and 5 oclock.

 

If I were to mount the new MC, holes would be rotated somewhat.  Would this be a problem, would the gravity fed pipes leak when joining the MC at this angle, or is it no problem?  The copper brake lines are not an issue, just the feed in pipes.

 

Cheers for any helpful notions.

 

Yes it would be a problem. It means that you have the wrong master cylinder, most likely a left hand drive one. This is a different diameter (maybe not by much) and having the fluid inlet ports not vertical might prevent transfer to and from the reservoir. I wouldn’t recommend trying it by remaking all of the brake pipes to fit only to find it doesn’t work (or worse, fails in some way). 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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Many people tried swapping LDH and RHD MC as cheap way out but its false economny.

 

You cannot use LHD MC on RHD or other way around for a number of reasons:

stroke length inside is different,

ports are get covered at rest therefore front-rear bias changes,

pedal ratio  and pedal feel is worse brakes tend to stick when released and need multiple jabs to stop dragging...

Some people made it work ok by adding restrictors, bias valves different brake material ect... and i tried these and its nowhere near ok imho and costs far more than correct MC costs new or refurb.

 

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On 4/19/2019 at 12:03 AM, Simeon said:

 

Yes it would be a problem. It means that you have the wrong master cylinder, most likely a left hand drive one. This is a different diameter (maybe not by much) and having the fluid inlet ports not vertical might prevent transfer to and from the reservoir. I wouldn’t recommend trying it by remaking all of the brake pipes to fit only to find it doesn’t work (or worse, fails in some way). 

 

Thanks Shakeyc, it's just that I had seen angled MC' s that operate ok , and was wondering if this would work with mine.

 

i am struggling to find a MC new or old on a budget as a replacement for mine, which leaks slightly and new seals did not solve it.

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Aren’t we going around full circle?  Have you asked these guys?

 

http://www.pastparts.co.uk/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=8

 

http://classiccar-brakes.co.uk/copmanyprofile.htm

 

http://www.jlspares.com/brakeparts.htm

 

This is your brakes we are talking about. Not only are you risking your own life, your passengers life’s but also the life of people who don’t even know you on the street who may get caught up in an accident when your brakes fail.

 

There’s nothing wrong with trying to engineer a replacement with an equivalent from another car that actually matches yours in fit and function  but slapping a different sized LHD master on by tweaking the pipe connections so that it is installed rotated is half arsed. I appreciate that you may be working on a budget as well but this is the kind of failure that you park your car up and don’t move it again until it is properly fixed. You will unfortunately need to find the money, just like you would an engine or gearbox failure.  If you had an accident due to brake failure and your insurance company found your modification they would be throwing the book at you. 

 

 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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On 4/20/2019 at 9:57 PM, Littleeagle28 said:

 

Thanks Shakeyc, it's just that I had seen angled MC' s that operate ok , and was wondering if this would work with mine.

 

i am struggling to find a MC new or old on a budget as a replacement for mine, which leaks slightly and new seals did not solve it.

 

Even with surcharge its a great deal, infact im going to get one for myself

 

https://www.linwar.com/e10_134_31105_45.html

 

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  • 11 months later...

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