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Door Check Body Mount Broke


Squatch Pads

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Hello,

 

My door brake check body mount just broke while at the Cracker Jack mechanics shop.  I have the car home now and it will never see that shop again.

 

The door brakes were replaced with the new style.  When it broke the door flew open and over extended and now I have a slight crease where the door folded onto the fender.  GRRRR......

 

What is the fix?  When I asked the shop, they said they didn’t know how and proposed to weld and stuff.  I passed based on my experience with them.

 

Picture.

 

 

6B8B33B5-017A-4FC6-8195-A3143AFA62F6.jpeg

49A64ABC-5B43-4752-B1F9-07BE05B9322B.jpeg

 

Squatch Pads

Lorena Texas

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So normally the weld breaks and not the bracket, meaning you'll need to find/make a new bracket first.  Once you have that, cut a hole in the footwell (unless there's already one with enough access) so you can behind there, and drill a hole between the two slots where the bracket arms come through the door frame and a matching hole in the middle of the bracket.  Then, you can put your new bracket in there from inside the footwell and secure it with a bolt and nut instead of welding. Not super fun, but IMO beats trying to do any welding in there!

Edited by AustrianVespaGuy
drivers side, not passengers, sorry!
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A no weld option is to make a new U shaped piece out of metal scrap and insert it into the existing slots from behind the pillar post.  There is an access hole when you pull the carpet down from the foot well.  You will probably need to remove the hood release handle to loosen the carpet and it will take some fishing to get the bracket through the slots.  I used a rivet going through the pillar and new bracket.  I held the bracket in place with vice grips while I drilled through the pillar and bracket and set the rivet.

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As stated above, not a fun process; however, it is quire doable, it works, and, in many regards, it beats welding in that congested area.

 

1.  Aforementioned suggestions re: cutting an access window/hole in knee panel for access are good ones.  

2.  BE SURE to cut the opening on only 3 sides so the flap can be bent back and and into place flush when finished.  Sorry, no photo.

3.  BE SURE to cram rags into the space behind the window and below the brake work area to catch nuts and washers you WILL drop during the fastening process.

 

Good luck.

Larry

 

IMG_1213.thumb.jpg.bb4ec93ed154a8cf3182b5315e0a08c9.jpgIMG_1231.thumb.jpg.78d75b6cc2daac28655171056caabfb8.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here's a link to a technical article on how to fix this.  I need to do this on my '74tii, but haven't gotten around to it yet.  Good luck,

John

 

Link to tech article:  

 

 

'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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Had mine reinforced with a weld top & bottom. 

Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

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