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Instrument cluster disassembly & refurb


zambo

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I just pulled my cluster out of an early ‘73 and even though I had cleaned up a ‘75 cluster a few years back, had trouble getting the glass out due to the tight securing rings.
 
Got those sorted with a little finesse and a bit of grunt but was wondering about two things I hope others have dealt with and can advise.
 
1. What do you finish the plastic cowel over the dials with? It’s a bit oxidized so curious what polish, etc others have used.
 
2. To respray the white inside the cluster, I was hoping to remove the handbrake light lens. Is that removable? Mine seems tight in there.
 
Happy for any other tips also.
 
Thanks
 
Richard
 
 

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Please post a few pictures. Will be easier to advise.

Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

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When I sprayed mine a few years back, I recall taping off the handbrake section... as I recall it does not come out.

 

Another tip since I recently pulled my 75 unit out and fixed speedo.. my glass would rattle horribly at certain speeds, idles even thought I had thought I had the retaining rings cranked down. This time I bought some good clear caulk and once rings were in, I carefully squirted this into several of the openings between the retaining rings and plastic frame and glass. Now not a bit of rattle no matter what the rest of the car is doing. I have some pix of it in a recent post.

 

Randy

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1975 - 2366762 Born 7/75

See the whole restoration at:

http://www.rwwbmw2002.shutterfly.com

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Although I don't use it, I refurbed this Silver Dollar Cluster. There is no polishing those chromed plastic bezels. If you want them rechromed, will have to find someone who chromes plastic.

 

Just refurbished my 1973 cluster using chrome spray paint.

 

 

 

 

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Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

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pictures please! 

depending on the vintage ... there are different strategies ...

 

that said ... a bit of finesse (and tape) the work can be transformative

 

 

image.thumb.png.429f5815043b1e159d3bb207dfcbcd4d.png&key=7d6ef6bf271c5704d33bbf9dc010c981a2682a037ecd56ac64df04531e43829c

 

image.thumb.png.49fce10c24efa7cecb7783b80eb19f24.png&key=7e97f686d03702b016b55a59effa53a61fd9f98625e79d661c17bceedcbb7eec

 

Thank Geoff

 

I don’t have the unit handy to take a shot, but the area regarding my polishing (or whatever’s best to refinish it) question is the broad area of smooth plastic that on your cluster has the two screws visible. Logically the two triangular side sections need a similar treatment.

 

My cluster is the design version after yours and the one prior to the faux wood grain facia - the same as the bottom pic in adawil2002’s post above.

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Here's how to redo the bezels on a '73 cluster with the thin bezels.

 

 

Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

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Thanks everyone. Seems like there is good advice on re-doing the silver highlight lines on the various bezels.

But only found one reference to one of my queries on refinishing the plastic under-cowel area on the cluster “box” which was via a dremel tool. Anyone tried anything else with success?

Thanks again.

Richard

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I thought I would resurrect this only because I think I found an alternate way to paint the silver rings - even though I wasn't after that solution in this thread. And apologies if this has surfaced in other threads on this topic of cluster refurbishments.

 

After thinking thru it, fiddling with the masking options and then asking my wife who is good at solving things requiring close quarters manipulation of things metals (was a goldsmith for 15 years), cloth (was of the generation of women that could sew, knit,) etc. I had a go at an option involving cotton buds as a paint brush. I tried initially spongeing it on and whilst good for coverage, made a mess either side which required unnecessary cleaning up. Whilst using a cotton bud (I think they're called tips in the U.S.) dipped in mineral turpentine as a clean up, it occurred to me the precision of the tip would be good at rolling paint on around that thin ridge.

 

So sprayed only a little of the silver paint onto a plastic take-out container lid, dipped the tip in it and it went on pretty well -  about 60 seconds per ring. I will post pics later as its drying and I want to put one more coat on but I think it will look OK. I hope this is a different approach as what I like about FAQ is you get a range of different ideas and figure out which one works best for you.

 

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Zambo, 

It has been a great help for me as well as my wife has varied interests from sewing, crafts, jewelry making etc. It has been great to have a large selection of specialty tools available to me, plus she is excellent with a hot glue gun and at soldering. 

It has just taking me a little while to get used to working with pink colored tools all the time....

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Loose: Not tightly bound. Subject to motion.
Lose: What happens when you are spell check dependent.

 

1975 Malaga. It is rusty and  springs an occasional leak.  Just like me. 

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Just a quick update. I was even able to perform very precise recoats a few days after with the cotton buds (tips) where I had just missed a spot which I hadn't seen earlier. Just put some silicone beads in the central glass as its the only one that seems to rattle a bit on the bench. Will post photo's prior to reassembly.

 

One question is I have checked all the bulbs and they are all working - however they are a mix of 3w and 5w. I seem to have read somewhere that 3w was standard ... is this correct? And is there any "harm" in replacing the 3w with all 5w ... or is there even any gain in reality on the dash illumination. I must confess that I've never had dim lights on the dash. Side note - I have removed the light switch and hit it up with some electrical component cleaner on that coil that I assume provides the resistance for the dimming to work. Be interesting to see if makes any difference to the dimming effect. Thanks for all the comments and helpful tips.

 

Richard

 

P.S. I'm not sure if I have a rogue bulb - its all mirror like when you look at it in your hand but when you put power to it, it lights up just fine - all others are clear glass ...?

Edited by zambo
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Finally got a few pics of the final process, assembly and installation. Sorry though, photography is not one of my strong points. I dropped and broke one of the bulbs during re-assembly - the one high up on the tack assembly - and this accounts for the darkness on that side of the speedo and tach. Will drop one in tomorrow when I pick a couple up from the shop and that should even out the lighting.

 

Good news is the dimmer now works pretty much as designed and I think overall the project to refurb the cluster assembly turned out fine. For those that are curious, that odometer reading is correct for only once around the "clock" at 109k miles - I brought it at 88k miles about 12-13 years ago.

 

Thanks for all the assistance on this thread.

 

 

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