GENUINE *BMW FACTORY TOOL* 2002 tii KUGELFISCHER INJECTOR PU

['76mintgrün'02]

Notice the original tool has slots for the 'bolts'.

That makes it a little harder to make, but easier to use.

 

If I was making one like the original, using THICK barstock, I would drill two holes at the inside of the slots and then just slice slots in to the holes.

 

I might weld a little plug in the end of each slot, to retain the pulling bolts.

(No milling machine here).

Edited October 28, 2018 by '76mintgrün'02

[PaulTWinterton]

33 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

I might weld a little plug in the end of each slot, to retain the pulling bolts.

 

Good.  But how would you make the ball bearing fit into the tip of the center bolt.  That's the real magic.  The ball makes it a very cool tool in my mind.

['76mintgrün'02]

on the lathe, of course.

drill a little deeper than half the diameter, cut a 'bezel' around the hole and use a punch to tap it in around the ball.

[Swiss 2002Tii]

Ah, the wonders of a nicely-tooled workshop! ?

[jibarnes]

No slots in mine.

['76mintgrün'02]

THAT makes it a little easier to make.  

The OP's tool did not appear to be slotted either.

I was thinking of the photo that 73TiiDavidPA posted. 

Edited October 28, 2018 by '76mintgrün'02

[chargin]

My carriage bolts worked but not optimally 

 

the center ball ball bearing would be a nice addition 

 

fortunately my version took about 20min and $3.00 in parts ?

['76mintgrün'02]

On 10/24/2018 at 1:25 PM, alixta said:

happy to publish measurements etc.

That would be very helpful information.  I can make some guesses, based on photos; but Paul W. used the term "replica" when we were discussing making them and that'd mean the closer they are to an original the better.

 

It seems there were variations between these.  Slots vs holes for the L shaped bolts to pass through for example.  As Chargin has proven, there is more than one way to pull a pulley, but if someone (like irdave) is trying to put together a kit of Tii tools, the closer to an original design the better.

 

Paul and I have discussed attempting to locate an original tool to copy, having it in hand; but it seems a few careful measurements and information about bolt sizes/lengths, BB size, bar stock dimensions, etc, should be sufficient.  That'd save the cost/hassle of someone having to put one in the mail.

 

If anyone would care to share such information, that'd be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom

 

edit- is that little BB spring loaded?

Edited October 30, 2018 by '76mintgrün'02

[alixta]

Mine arrived from 'eBay' today.

 

Here are some detailed shots. I'll get around to measurements soon I hope.

 

No slots.

The BB is fixed in place.

Different numbers on each side of the bar.

The bend fingers look more professional than they appeared in eBay pics.

 

[irdave]

Tom, I doubt the ball would be spring loaded- it's there to minimize the contact point, no?

 

And those fingers do look very smashed- lot of heat and a big smasher.  My original thought was that you wouldn't need slots- just locate the holes correctly- the fingers spin after all.  I suppose making slots means less precision is required so repeatability goes up, but you would think that's pretty straightforward.  I'm still thinking about oxy/acetolene and hitting them with a bfh, then grind to make pretty- but that would give you the flat surface to make contact with the aluminum pulley. (Bang it down onto a piece of steel with a hole drilled into it with threads- and smash the shank down- grind to suit.  Could maybe even just use a couple of nuts on the threads, clamped in the vise, heat, hammer, grind, voila.  No, piece of steel with a drilled hole is probably better.  Oooo!  Better yet, could probably make them hot then smash them in the press.  No, because you need to start by smashing it over in a direction other than straight down.  Back to the piece of steel with a hole.)

 

Question; think the bolts are M8's or M10's?

Edited November 2, 2018 by irdave
thinking about it...