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What is this engine?


kontango

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1 hour ago, kontango said:

Do you think someone could add Weber Carbs to this engine?

 

Somone could add Weber carbs to any engine. But you need to know the condition of the engine and what’s in the engine, e.g,, the compression ratio, before you can judge if it’s worth adding Weber carbs to that particular engine.

 

What are your goals with respect to this particular engine?

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited by Conserv
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1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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Honestly I was looking for an original M10 Engine to put on the car with Weber sidedraft carbs to make it a spirited daily driver. This was the closest I could find in Jordan. From my research it looks like an injected M10 for an E21. I would wanna rid it off injection and go for a carb set up and add some headers, maybe even a 292 cam if those things are applicable to this engine.

 

I was looking to get 150 to 170 HP out of the engine.

 

What do you think? Is it doable?

Edited by kontango
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On 12/21/2018 at 4:01 AM, tzei said:

Webers? Why not. That head has same i/e ports as 2.0 so dual carb intake fits. Injectors are fitted to head iirc so those holes needs to be blocked and there is no place for OE fuel pump so one needs to go electric on that one.

 

Yes, you can add Weber carbs. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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2 hours ago, kontango said:

 

I was looking to get 150 to 170 HP out of the engine. 

 

 

2 hours ago, kontango said:

Would I get decent performance out of the engine?

Define decent.

 

To get what you qoute above you'd have to do a lot.
To get 170 (german) HP you're looking at 304 cam 10.5 CR Hemi Combustion Chamber 46 inlet 39 exhaust 45 Webers and a good exhaust as well as fitting inlet and Ignition.
All that not just bolted together but well done: valves machined, head ported, Valve seats done, squish area done deck height done, Pistons checked for Valve clearance etc. and all that not for the first time.
 

 

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Quote

This was the closest I could find in Jordan

 

 

Since you didn't put this in the original post, you got information based on what we had to reasonably assume.

 

You can do whatever you want to ANY engine.

 

NO stock M10 engine will make 150hp with bolt ons, and few will make that without new pistons

and a higher rev limit.  There's a 'how many horses' thread here that you should read- it has it all.

 

Since you found this in Jordan, the next step would be to find the casting imprint of

which head it has- the options I know of are 1.6i and 1.8i.  

In the US, the E30 never got CIS,

but I don't know what went where when for the rest of the world.

Many got carbs we've never seen here.

 

Any way you cut it, you probably have a destroked, cast, 5 counterweight crank, which is 

not a good starting place for a performance M10.  The good news is that you can add

crank and pistons to that block and head, and now you can get to your horsepower goal.

With a strong, light block.

 

hth,

t

 

 

 

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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15 minutes ago, TobyB said:

 

 

Since you didn't put this in the original post, you got information based on what we had to reasonably assume.

 

You can do whatever you want to ANY engine.

 

NO stock M10 engine will make 150hp with bolt ons, and few will make that without new pistons

and a higher rev limit.  There's a 'how many horses' thread here that you should read- it has it all.

 

Since you found this in Jordan, the next step would be to find the casting imprint of

which head it has- the options I know of are 1.6i and 1.8i.  

In the US, the E30 never got CIS,

but I don't know what went where when for the rest of the world.

Many got carbs we've never seen here.

 

Any way you cut it, you probably have a destroked, cast, 5 counterweight crank, which is 

not a good starting place for a performance M10.  The good news is that you can add

crank and pistons to that block and head, and now you can get to your horsepower goal.

With a strong, light block.

 

hth,

t

 

 

 

 

If OP has to swap crank, rods, pistons, bore the block, etc. is there any benefit to using this motor vs the stock 2.0 block as a starting point? Presuming OP still has the stock motor.

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5 hours ago, Jimmy said:

 

If OP has to swap crank, rods, pistons, bore the block, etc. is there any benefit to using this motor vs the stock 2.0 block as a starting point? Presuming OP still has the stock motor.

 

Unfortunately I can't find the stock motor. My options are an DOHC M44 or this. Local laws won't allow me to go over a 2.0L engine. I also want to keep the engine light for handling purposes.

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The diff may have replace in the past years so you do not know unless you inspecting the outside case of the diff for markings.Look at the Tech Articles in the forums section of FAQ. The factory installed LSD only in the S model years 1980-1983 of the E21 320i. Read this linked for more info and do a web search.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1778097-BMW-E21-quot-320is-quot-it-is-an-official-designation

Chris

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1 hour ago, Arizona02 said:

The diff may have replace in the past years so you do not know unless you inspecting the outside case of the diff for markings.Look at the Tech Articles in the forums section of FAQ. The factory installed LSD only in the S model years 1980-1983 of the E21 320i. Read this linked for more info and do a web search.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1778097-BMW-E21-quot-320is-quot-it-is-an-official-designation

 

Although the LSD was standard equipment on the U.S, 320i S-package cars, some non-S cars came over with optional LSD’s, hence there are some early (1977-79) LSD’s here in the States. In my ‘76, I’m currently running a 3.64 e21 LSD, manufactured May 1978 (“5” over “8” on the left front side of the housing, second photo) in a housing cast April 26, 1978 (“26478” on the top rear of the housing, third photo). These early differentials (pre-‘80? pre-‘79?) use four-bolt output shaft retainers like ‘02 differentials.

 

As to ratio, the second photo also shows the number of pinion and ring teeth, as “11” and “40”, respectively (40/11 equals 3.64), with an intervening “S” signifying a limited slip unit. I suspect the stamped “S”, as here, preceded the much larger painted “S” we commonly see on the right front side of the housing, which also signifies a limited slip unit.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

58F0F5C8-6B5C-4F3A-A356-2317BB99D052.jpeg

041A41A9-9688-4C7D-ACDF-655BCB5A316F.jpeg

A6776CB9-DA88-471B-85F1-009C927D8CFC.jpeg

Edited by Conserv

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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Hi, just a hint: without raising C/R by other Pistons adding a Cam and doing a proper Valve/Intake job and modifying the distributor I wouldn't bother adding Webers. If you do nothing but adding Webers and jetting you gain an extra 15 hp - that's it.

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That's a 1977 M10 M43/1 from an E21 320

1990cc

Carbureted

8.1:1 compression

107hp

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M10#M43

 

This is about the closest you're going to find to a base 2002 engine besides an actual base 2002 engine. Visually it will match the original motor.

 

Here is an outline of a good build with webers:

https://adamsautosport.com/information/tutorials/bmw-m10-street-hotrod-engine-checklist/

 

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