Geez, another Oil thread!

[Vicleonardo1]

16 minutes ago, West Palm 2002 said:

Castrol 20-50 GTX

May need to change that recommendation. Not a lot of ZDDP for our flat tappet cams. 

I keep posting this link: 

If you are not using racing oil where you are changing the oil every race. Valvoline VR1 seems to have the numbers. 

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?136304-What-oil-brands-offer-the-best-protection-***Good-read***

 

[Jimmy]

On 10/18/2019 at 4:11 PM, GDI said:

ZDDP

 

*yawn*
 

I'm pretty sure you could run oil from the dollar store and the guides and rings would still fail before the cam if you kept up on valve adjustments.

['76mintgrün'02]

*hiccup*

 

What type of oil do you use, Jimmy?

[Jimmy]

1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

*hiccup*

 

What type of oil do you use, Jimmy?

 

M1 15w50. It pours easier at room temperature ?

[jimk]

12 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

If you had to choose between 10W-30 and 20W-50, which would you choose?

Neither!

But if it was the last quart in the world, the 20W-50.  Oil pump is not robust enough for 10W-30 at low speeds.

 

Having spent way too many years working with fluid systems (water, oil, gas, air, steam, etc) I am of the opinion that too much engine oil pressure is telling that oil is not flowing, sort of the same as closing the valve at the end of a long tube, hose, or pipe.  Pressure builds at the inlet but not much flow.  Low oil flow means the part needing oil is not getting the oil it might need.  Rod big end bearings are at the end of the line and receive oil buy a crazy route and is the reason I don't like heavy oil.  The wide multigrade oils of today are better but they need quality VI improvers or viscosity shearback is their downfall.

Edited October 20, 2019 by jimk

[jimk]

On 10/18/2019 at 7:10 PM, GDI said:

 I think the essence of my question around whether diesel oil is a no no for the car.

It carries a SM spec, that's for gasoline (spark ignition I think).  The "C" series specs are compression ignition, diesel.

[jimk]

15 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

If you had to choose between 10W-30 and 20W-50, which would you choose?

Also to add - the 10W-30 formulations marketed today are not the same as that before roller cam followers.

Edited October 20, 2019 by jimk
fat finger spelling fix

[114TYP]

So what type of 10W-40 should I put in for winter? Not going to drive it, but going to start it up. Temps will be below zero.

[Mike A]

My choice has been Mobil1 15-50 race (online for $25/5 qt) . This weight has the right additive zddp package for these classic cars. The 0-40 does not. Back in the early 80’s BMW / Mobil did a million mile lab test on a 2.5 motor using Mobil1 . Tear down showed all critical dimensions in spec. Been using it ever since....0-40 in the street cars , 325e, 330i, etc. and 15-50 in the toys. FWIW

['76mintgrün'02]

Why start it up, if you're not going to drive it?

Why change the oil?

 

The temperature cycling seems conducive to condensation.

 

Might be best to just let it rest.  But that's just a guess.  

 

[Son of Marty]

12 hours ago, Jimmy said:

 

*yawn*
 

I'm pretty sure you could run oil from the dollar store and the guides and rings would still fail before the cam if you kept up on valve adjustments.

Sure wish your were right Jimmy, then I'd still have my small bearing Alpina 300' cam ?

Edited October 20, 2019 by Son of Marty

[irdave]

1 hour ago, saoirse said:

So what type of 10W-40 should I put in for winter? Not going to drive it, but going to start it up. Temps will be below zero.

 

If the car is going be below zero, especially F, I wouldn't start it up to start it up.  Pull the battery and put it inside and let that car hibernate.  Maybe some non-ethanol gas, or even better, drain the tank and run it until the float bowl is empty...  Depends on how long winter is.

[Vicleonardo1]

So Jimk

Should I take my Valvoline VR1 and Mix 1/2 10W-30 and 1/2 20W-50? (tongue in cheek)...? 

 

[tech71]

The last time I was actively driving an 02 was so long ago that synthetic oil was still viewed with fear and mistrust.

Horror stories circulated about tight engines suddenly developing all sorts of issues, leaking profusely at the rear main seal being one of them.

I have no idea if any of it has any basis in reality. 

So lots of people out there using synthetic oil their  E10s?

How is that working out?

Whats the perceived advantage? 

I use synthetic oil in my other BMWs, be nice if I could keep 1 oil on the shelf for all 3.

 

 

Update: just googled, never mind

Edited October 20, 2019 by tech71

[Jimmy]

4 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Sure wish your were right Jimmy, then I'd still have my small bearing Alpina 300' cam ?

 

So many questions:

 

What oil were you running when it failed?

what oil filter?

what rpms was it running prior to failure? what valve springs?

What failed, the lobes or the bearings or both?

 

Cheers