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Geez, another Oil thread!


GDI

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3 minutes ago, Jimmy said:

More than that and you cause other problems

That is if you are your own expert oil blender!   Which is why blending should be left up to the oil company.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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38 minutes ago, Mike A said:

...and for a very serious short course on the subject see for instance...

 

Selection of the Right Motor Oil for the Corvair and other Engines,  By Richard Widman

https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf

Quite in depth study.  If I could only find the time to read it all.

I wonder why he chose to not plot the viscosity curves in semi-log that it traditional and flat lines the curves.

Those of us that drove before the Feds got involved and made engines to be detuned and run hotter, the oil viscosity used was no more than SAE 30, which he argues for in the Corvairs

Edited by jimk

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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4 minutes ago, jimk said:

That is if you are your own expert oil blender!   Which is why blending should be left up to the oil company.

 

I was thinking of the folks who apply the violently-American "If two's good, five's better" philosophy and go full retard with additives. At least they don't try to make their own tires or brake pads.

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Yikes! So I need some advise on what to fill my fresh rebuild with. It's currently dry, back from the builder (is a good machinist but specializes in SBC) am building a text/run stand that I'll start it on. Oh sure, wish I had a car to mount it in, I've got the "slow pit work body man" so here's the stand I'm building. I had a stick of steel and a chop saw. Gonna start sealing things and will need some oil . . . which oil?

engine stand.jpg

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On 10/20/2019 at 8:38 PM, Son of Marty said:

Jimmy, I don't know where to start, I live in a town with 2 stop lights and a round about my cars don't idle much. The valve springs were with in Alpina spec's, I believe 3000 miles is the BMW recommended oil change period for dino oil. The Alpina 300' cam is not a high lift cam although it is a high duration cam and does have steep ramp angles. I've built engines for 45 years including 4500 hp race engines from a aircraft engine that produced 1550 hp in stock form, this was clearly a failure of lube oil in a high presure contact area.

... and the mic drops.... 

  • Like 1

"Goosed" 1975 BMW 2002

 

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20 minutes ago, Dudeland said:

... and the mic drops.... 

Thanks guys, but I Jimmy asks some valid questions, that I answered. Don't think Jimmy and I have any problems other than our 02 addiction. 

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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16 hours ago, jimk said:

Quite in depth study.  If I could only find the time to read it all.

I wonder why he chose to not plot the viscosity curves in semi-log that it traditional and flat lines the curves.

Those of us that drove before the Feds got involved and made engines to be detuned and run hotter, the oil viscosity used was no more than SAE 30, which he argues for in the Corvairs

Note also that his first choice was a diesel oil

73 Tii stock build, Porsche Macan   , E46 330i Florida driver, 

….and like most of us, way too many (maybe 30 at last count) I wish I hadn't sold ?

 

 

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56 minutes ago, Mike A said:

Note also that his first choice was a diesel oil

For a Corvair :D

Nah, It's ok.  But he doesn't like the CJ-4 spec oil (it's for 2007 and later diesels).  He likes the CI-4 that will eventually become extinct when the old diesels are off the road.

 

Keep in mind the API specs contain minimum numbers to pass the required tests.  The oils that do way better are the ones to use, not those that just meet the mark.

Edited by jimk

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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18 hours ago, jerryasi said:

Yikes! So I need some advise on what to fill my fresh rebuild with. It's currently dry, back from the builder (is a good machinist but specializes in SBC) am building a text/run stand that I'll start it on. Oh sure, wish I had a car to mount it in, I've got the "slow pit work body man" so here's the stand I'm building. I had a stick of steel and a chop saw. Gonna start sealing things and will need some oil . . . which oil?

engine stand.jpg

 

 

I just finished my build and am running Valvoline VR1 20-50, I've put 500 miles on, No issues As long as it has Zinc in it your good

 

Engine Compartment.jpg

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20 hours ago, jerryasi said:

Yikes! So I need some advise on what to fill my fresh rebuild with. It's currently dry, back from the builder (is a good machinist but specializes in SBC) am building a text/run stand that I'll start it on. 

 

2 popular choices:

https://penngrade1.com/products/high-performance-oils/penngrade-1-break-in-oil-sae-30/

https://www.drivenracingoil.com/gp-1-30-grade-break-in-specialty-motor-oil.html

 

John in VA

'74 tii "Juanita"  '85 535i "Goldie"  '86 535i "M-POSSTR"  

'03 530i "Titan"  '06 330ci "ZHPY"

bmw_spin.gif

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