bluetooth123 and the ballast resistor

[roman.lysiak]

I have a black coil in the car now reading 1.8 Ohms with a ballast resistor reading also 1.8 Ohms which I would figure is reading 3.6 at the distributor. I've had continuous problems with fouling plugs and poor spark. All fuel stuff has been reviewed numerous times, but every time I've upgraded the ignition system (new wires/new cap/rotor/plugs/timing/distributor/ignitor) she runs for about 2 weeks and then goes crap, with more plug fouling. I've changed the distributor and ingnitor internals twice now. As another kick at the can I've purchased the bluetooth123 and want to make sure I've got this set up properly so I don't blow the wad of money the 123's go for.

 

I know that  the 123 needs at least 1 Ohm of resistance and not any less. I have a blue coil reading 2.6 Ohms and I'm planning on bypassing the ballast resistor. I'd like to get rid of the resistor relay as well, knowing I have a starter that has the jumper plug on it that acts as the relay. I was planning on running a wire from the starter jumper plug to the positive of the blue coil, and also a wire going from fuse #12(ignition) to the positive of the coil. 

 

The question I have is this a plausable setup? Alternately, can I just run the ignition line from fuse #12 to the coil and get rid of the whole relay idea using the starter? Without that circuit will the car start? Does the juice run constantly from fuse 12 on both start and run or just in the run position?

 

Roman

['76mintgrün'02]

 

 

46 minutes ago, roman.lysiak said:

she runs for about 2 weeks and then goes crap, with more plug fouling.

Which type of plugs are you using?  

[roman.lysiak]

NGK I think they were the bpe6


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['76mintgrün'02]

 

3 hours ago, roman.lysiak said:

All fuel stuff has been reviewed numerous times,

 

could you please elaborate on this?

 

 

EDIT-- I just learned that you have a Tii...  I cannot help with sorting the fuel equation.  sorry.

Edited December 29, 2019 by '76mintgrün'02

[Stevenola]

Can't help with the fuel issue, which sounds like it's running consistently rich.  For the 123, get a Bosch red coil and eliminate the ballast resistor.  Hook the red wire to the positive tab of the coil, and the black wire to the negative side.  Blue wire goes to ground (a good one - I ran a hidden wire to the neg side of the battery as well as grounded to the body.  Don't use a blue coil, it's internally resisted.

Edited December 29, 2019 by Stevenola

[roman.lysiak]

What the resistance of the red coil?


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[Stevenola]

Not sure but it uses a 1.8ohm resistor, it is over 1ohm and is what 123 recommends to use.

[roman.lysiak]

You said to eliminate the ballast resistor. That would fry the 123.


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[Stevenola]

No it won't, it needs full 12 volts to operate and again it's what they recommend to do.

[donkbike]

the ballast resistor was there for the points, red coil no resistor works great

[JohnS]

In the interest of not spreading misinformation, I deleted my post ? 

 

Many users of the 123 ignition have successfully used the 123 and the Red coil without the ballast resistor.

 

 

 

Edited December 31, 2019 by JohnS

[Stevenola]

I've used the 123/red coil/no ballast for 5+ years and several long trips, no issues.