Managing engine bay/under body surface rust

[floatinghead]

I’ve read a lot of different threads here on the FAQ about managing rust, but I get a bit overwhelmed with the options of available products and how,when and what order they're used.  I have a 73tii that's a good driver, but as I work on different areas of the car for mechanical fixes, I’d like to clean up/ fend off any rust while I'm in there. I’m about to drop the front subframe for the first time and see some areas on the drivers side that could use some love. My goal is to not spend a ton of time on this now  ( i.e. no grinding or taking areas down to bare metal) as I’d like to keep it driving and will be planning an engine rebuild in a year or two where I'll then have more time/space to do a better job… i hope!

 

My plan was to knock off any loose paint/ rust, hit it with a rust converter and then paint it with matching body color ( chamonix). Does that sound like a decent plan?  

 

Any preferred rust converters?  Brush on vs Spray? Any products to avoid?

 

For paint, I saw that Wimbledon White (ford) was a decent match as I think my engine bay is original paint, whereas the body was repainted shortly before I bought it.  

 

I may have answered my own question, but open to advice from anyone who’s done something similar.

 

Thanks and Happy 2020!

 

Baron

 

[floatinghead]

And some photos for reference: one of hood seam and the other near drivers side near battery





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[Mike Self]

Baron

The very first story I did for the BMW CCA Roundel back in 1983 was on sussing out and protecting a 2002 against rust.  Yes, they were rusting back then!

 

PM me and I'll be glad to send you a copy of the article.

 

mike

[floatinghead]

Thanks Mike! I sent you a note.


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[Conserv]

1 hour ago, floatinghead said:

 

For paint, I saw that Wimbledon White (ford) was a decent match as I think my engine bay is original paint, whereas the body was repainted shortly before I bought it. ...

 

If your car was originally Chamonix — the only white which appeared on ‘02’s — why not get some Chamonix touch-up paint, rather than Ford’s Wimbledon White?

 

True: new Chamonix touch-up paint might not be an exact match for 46-year-old Chamonix. But why start with a Ford color when you can start with the original color?

 

There are threads about touch up paints, with both brush and spray applications. One note, Chamonix went through a “mellowing” at some point and I believe the later Chamonix is slightly more creamy than the earlier Chamonix. Unless it’s the opposite way around... ? A few threads discuss this issue as well.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited January 2, 2020 by Conserv

[PaulTWinterton]

1 hour ago, floatinghead said:

Any preferred rust converters?  Brush on vs Spray? Any products to avoid?

 

Por-15 is a great product.  It's a 3 step process, but gives a great/hard surface to paint on.

Rust Bullet is also a great product.  It's a 2 step process and can be painted on as well.

 

Both are brush on, but if you have the environment and tools both can be sprayed as well.

 

The rule that I follow is that ONLY areas with "surface" rust are candidates for these products.  Any deep rust areas should not be coated.  They should be eliminated and new metal welded in.

[SydneyTii]

I’ve done this recently (paint matching) I went to an auto body paint supply shop, the kind the trade use, they will use a machine to read and match your paint colour, then you can get an aerosol in the correct shade.

ive been using Bilt Hamber for a while now, it’s a very good suite of products that treats rust, the anti corrosion products like the surface and cavity waxes/coatings are superb, I live very close to the Ocean and any corrosion has been stopped or prevented.

They do a clear rust protector/inhibitorfor painted areas as well.

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/

[2002#3]

Most FAQ'ers use POR-15 products and are very satisfied.

 

I have always used Rust-Mort by SEM for all surface rust issues and am very pleased with the product.  Apply, incubate/soak/brush, rinse.  Repeat.  Dry.  Paint.  Very efficient product; a little goes a long way.  Keep it out of your eyes and don't spill it on concrete (turns concrete white).

 

 

 

[floatinghead]

Most FAQ'ers use POR-15 products and are very satisfied.
 
I have always used Rust-Mort by SEM for all surface rust issues and am very pleased with the product.  Apply, incubate/soak/brush, rinse.  Repeat.  Dry.  Paint.  Very efficient product; a little goes a long way.  Keep it out of your eyes and don't spill it on concrete (turns concrete white).
 

 
 

For the SEM, do you paint right over it after the areas been treated? What paint would you recommend? Thanks


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[2002#3]

Clean, scrape, or whatever to remove as much as possible easy-to-remove surface rust then treat with Rust-Mort by the directions.  Yes, paint over the thoroughly dry end product.  Any good quality automotive finish-matching paint should work for your purposes.  Ask a body/paint guy near you (PPG?  Dupont?) or whatever FAQ'ers recommend.  You can always trust 2002FAQ'ers...right?

 

In case you need to use Rust-Mort to treat areas which are less delicate and likely to be abused (frames, steering rods, axles, brakes, diffs, etc.)...  Attached are photos of suspension and steering parts before treatment with Rust-Mort and after painting with SEM Rust-Shield (a black, glossy, heavy duty "paint" and rust preventer; needs a hardener).  A really good product for this purpose.  So far, it has lasted impressively.  However, I DO NOT recommend using Rust-Shield for the visible areas with which you seem concerned:   engine bays, body panels, and other nicely visible sites.  

 

NOTE:  Rust-Mort has no effect on clean bare metal.

 

Edited January 3, 2020 by 2002#3
spelling error

[7502]

8 hours ago, floatinghead said:

For paint, I saw that Wimbledon White (ford) was a decent match as I think my engine bay is original paint, whereas the body was repainted shortly before I bought it.  

 

I have a 75 Chamonix that was amateurishly repainted by PO. Every over the shelf spray can I tried just didn't look good. I had a local paint/body supply store color match the hood with a special camera. I then asked him to compare the data from the camera to that of BMW Chamonix. He said it was within some real small percent of a match. Then I asked him to check what existing formulations were even closer to what the camera came up with. Computer came up with some Hyundai white.

 

I had them make a pint can but leave out 4 oz to fill a spray can. I'm saving the spray for the summer but have brushed on some from the can. I just pour out what I will need from the pint can into a small bottle with a good lid and use that for each project I'm working on. This paint dries better and harder than most attempts using a spray cans off the shelf and matches up very well. I'm just not going to tell anyone the color is Hyundia Super White.

 

I plan on using he can to spray the sunroof panel but I think the brushable would work pretty well on the hard to get areas in the engine bay and less obvious areas maybe your hood touch ups areas. 

Edited January 3, 2020 by 7502

[floatinghead]

I actually went to an auto parts store today to see what whites they had. I looked at the Wimbledon white and it looked a bit too beige on the shelf, but hard to say. The engine bay ( original paint) has more of a creme tint to it for sure, versus the newer exterior which is a bit whiter, which I do like. It’s not as white as alpine as I’ve been next to some more modern bmw’s.

I found a small ppg paint can from the previous owner that had a bmw white titan color on it. I couldn’t find that item anywhere on line, so not really sure what it is. I’ll probably do as you suggest and hit the paint store and get something mixed to match. I wonder if I’ll get a Hyundai color as well....



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