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roundie rear license plate mounting bracket/plate?


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I can't believe I don't actually know what it looks like, but anyone have a pic of the factory bracketry on the rear panel? My 02 simply has 2 holes in the rear panel, and the license plate just bolts to that (on the top) courtesy of the PO. Looks kinda stupid as the plate gets kinda warped/bent and just doesn't look right. Plus the plate is directly against the paint. Is it a flat piece of aluminum or something that is supposed to be bolted to the panel, and the license plate bolts to that? I'll probably just fabricate something, but I'd like to see what its SUPPOSED to look like

thx

Matt

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Guest Anonymous

...that go over the mounting bolts. They're about 3/8" long and 1/2" diameter. It sets the plate out about the same distance at the bottom as the chrome piece betwixt the taillights, on which the top edge rests.

As far as I know that's the way it's supposed to be...

-Dave

Colorado '71

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Guest Anonymous

Me & Hugo Posting.jpg

URL: http://im4bmw.freewebspace.com/index.html

If you make your own bracket, be sure to put a "kink" (or "L-Bend") along the lower part of the bracket to move the upper part "away" from the horizontal rear panel trim strip.

I was going to make them and sell these brackets, but you know how it goes...$$$ to do the tooling, and how many guys would be willing to pay $50 or $60 for a custom ss license plate bracket? :-)

Good Luck,

John

'72tii (with custom rear plate bracket)

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Guest Anonymous

on the bottom to set the plate away from the paint about the same distance as the between the lights trim strip. You can find similar bushings in the Helps section of your AutoZone.PepBoyz.Advance whatever. Try generic shock absorber bushings about 1" diameter and 1/2 or 3/4" thick with 1/4" hole.

I used two short split pieces of black fuel line to cushion the top part of the plate so it doesn't rattle against the trim strip. My plate is black (period 1970 Virginia) so the fuel line is not noticable.

Paul in Richmond

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Guest Anonymous

My '67, bought from the original owner, had the old black California plate drilled to fit the hole spacing on the body, and the plate mounted directly to the body. When I had the car painted, I had all holes filled and started over. I bought an '02 plate bracket from Double '02 Salvage, and cut off the license plate lights that were part of the bracket (my car has the plate lights in the rear bumper). I had the bracket painted the same color as the car, and I also used rubber washers when mounting the thing.

Richard

'00 M5

'88 M3

'67 1600-2 S14 project

'99 R1100R

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Guest Anonymous

I went to the hardware store and bought two 1" stainless bolts, and SS nuts. Coupled with nylon washers, it makes for a quick install, with very little footprint against the painted rear panel. The top edge of the license plate sits against the aluminum trim (one a roundie) and ideally you'd want a bit of foam rubber stuck to the back of the plate to keep from damaging the trim.

Square tail lights, you'd have to do something different with the top edge of the plate.

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Guest Anonymous

alpine500_14.jpg

the two holes drilled low, then two aluminum bars with slots cut in them. They go up and have a couple of bends in them to get the plate out and away from the body. The plate is then mounted using the upper holes.

So, other than the 74+ cars, I don't think there is any set rule for mounting the rear plate. Fab something up that works and looks good.

BTW- Target has stainless steel hardware for mounting license plates in their automotive section.

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Guest Anonymous

directly to trunk with 2 bolts as you described. This is how it came to me 31 years ago (this Friday, the 16th) direct from a dealer, no bracket.

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