SOS-Engine won’t start..loud combustion

[Hans]

21 minutes ago, RPP said:

Hans, I have never check TDC before. By doing some research on it, looks like I will have to use my finger because I do not have a piston stop. Once I check TDC, what next? If is not in TDC, what do I need to do? Thanks.

Tdc is marked on the flywheel as "O", and prob on the front pulley. But you need tdc with both #1 valves closed, so easiest to pull valve cover and check. Both #1 arms should wiggle. Now you need #1 plug to fire at that tdc point. There are a number of ways to confirm this. Do you have a 12v test light? Or volt meter?

[RPP]

Is this at TDC? Thanks.

[RPP]

Hans, I have a voltimeter.

[RPP]

Hans, affirmative. The arms in valves 1 slightly move forward and back when I jolt them.

[Hans]

timing.pdf

 

You can substitute the 12V voltmeter for lamp. Alternatively, you can do this with a plug but this is easier. you can always put the car in gear and push to turn engine over a bit.

[RPP]

Please forgive my ignorance but when you say “lamp”, do you mean the timing light? Thanks

 

[Hans]

51 minutes ago, RPP said:

Please forgive my ignorance but when you say “lamp”, do you mean the timing light? Thanks

 

No, I mean a 12V test lamp. Old school testing device with metal prod and usually a wire with clamp. a voltmeter works too, set on 20V .DC. Just wedge the needles into the connection.

A timing light connects to a power source (12V or 110) and has a clamp that fits over #1 plug wire (typically). That you point at the timing marks. But that requires the engine to be running. The above steps are called static timing, because the engine is not running. Its to get you in the ball park to at least start the car.

 

And yes, those are timing marks. Double one id TDC, or "O". But there should be a pointer near where the alternator arm attaches to engine. The single one is where you want the static timing to fire #1

Edited April 17, 2020 by Hans

[Buckeye]

[Mark92131]

3 hours ago, RPP said:

Is this at TDC? Thanks.

 

The "OT" lines on your front pulley are TDC, their should be a pointer on your timing cover to line them up.  Then look at Buckeve's picture. the line on the front of your CAM should line up with your oil bar and both rockers on cylinder #1 will be loose.  Now you are at TDC.  Now look at where your distributor rotor is pointing, that will be the #1 cylinder lead on your distributor cap.  Now go around clockwise on the distributor cap from #1 and connect the other spark plug leads (3, 4, 2).  This will eliminate the firing order issue.

 

Mark92131

[tech71]

You are not checking TDC, you are finding it so you can verify your plug wiring.

What you are doing here is bringing the engine to the #1 piston top dead center position so you can verify that your firing order is correct. 

If it ran before and you did not remove/loosen/turn the distributor, its safe to assume that your distbibutor is installed correctly. Right?

There is a notch in the lip of the distributor body, turn the engine until the rotor lines up with this mark. You are at  #1 TDC more or less (static timing)

From there double check your plug wire routing, 99% of the time thats the problem.. I've done it more than once.

Process of elimination, do the simple first and all that.

your plug wires are super long, I lose them in the loops.They wont last laying on the exhaust manifold like that get some that fit better so you can keep them away from the Exhaust manifold. Also find a heat shield for the manifold.

Edited April 17, 2020 by tech71

[Hans]

16 minutes ago, tech71 said:

You are not checking TDC, you are finding it so you can verify your plug wiring.

What you are doing here is bringing the engine to the #1 piston top dead center position so you can verify that your firing order is correct. 

If I might make make one correction here: he needs to find TDC for #1 on the firing stroke, i.e., when both valves are closed. The cam notch is on top in that position, but not a practical reference once cover is back on.

[Buckeye]

He removed valve cover (picture above). Lot easier to #1 piston at TDC vs. confirming both valves are closed

[tech71]

Yes of course, firing stroke. Thats pretty much assumed for purposes of engine timing isn't it??

Assuming the distributor has not been disturbed, the alignment mark on its lip is the practical/easiest reference to use.

[Hans]

2 minutes ago, Buckeye said:

He removed valve cover (picture above). Lot easier to #1 piston at TDC vs. confirming both valves are closed

Absolutely, but its sometimes hard to see that cam notch. So I just give each arm a quick wiggle up and down. 

[Hans]

4 minutes ago, tech71 said:

Yes of course, firing stroke. Thats pretty much assumed for purposes of engine timing isn't it??

Assuming the distributor has not been disturbed, the alignment mark on its lip is the practical/easiest reference to use.

It might  be obvious to you and me, but maybe not if it was your first time. It has to be the correct TDC. 

As to second comment, I agree. Normally I look at what changed too. In this case, it sounds like maybe it got disturbed. Or wrong order. No harm in taking a few moments to confirm and learn by going over the basics.