SOS-Engine won’t start..loud combustion

[Mark92131]

4 hours ago, Hans said:

time to look down the hole on the back of engine and find the OT mark on the flywheel

 

Yes, it will be better to verify TDC from the flywheel hole, you might have a mis-matched timing cover or front pulley as JMK pointed out.  Get a strong LED flashlight and point it down the flywheel hole.  Pull the coil wire, put the car in gear (4th) and slowly push the car back or forward, depending on the room you have.  When you see the "OT" symbol in the viewing hole you are close.  Move the car forward slightly, the flywheel will move clockwise and you should see the TDC line on the flywheel.  That line will line up with the flat side of the oval viewing hole (driver's side as you face the firewall, illustrated in the 2nd photo).  Then re-check the line on the CAM to make sure it lines up with the oil bar and that both rocker arms on cylinder #1 are loose, then you should be static at TDC.

 

Where does your rotor point?  If it doesn't point at the line on your distributor rim, it really doesn't matter, all that matters is that is where the #1 lead goes on your cap goes and the other leads connect clockwise 3, 4, 2.  If the rotor doesn't point at the line on your distributor rim, loosen the 10mm nut on the distributor clamp and turn the distributor until it does line up with your rotor. Re-tighten the 10mm nut but leave it loose enough that your can still turn the distributor housing with slight effort.  Reconnect the coil, have a friend try to start it.  If it fires great, if not, you may need to slightly turn the distributor housing back and forth while you friend cranks it to get it to fire. Once it fires and idles you can move on to timing it correctly.

 

Also ditch that rev-limiting rotor for a non-resistor one.

 

Mark92131

 

 

[RPP]

Guys, I had to give it another try before midnight. Think I got it this time. Below are the new pics of the search for TDC:

Flywheel ✅

cam ✅

trans bullseye ✅

distributor rotor alignment ✅

 

Tomorrow we will to turn the engine on. Thank you all for your very helpful advice.

 

Roberto

[Buckeye]

On 4/16/2020 at 9:05 PM, RPP said:

CAR: BMW 2002 1976

 

 

What is chassis and engine VIN?

[RPP]

+2374567+

[Hans]

Looks like you have everything lined up! We await the video of happy car noises.

[RPP]

Yes!!!!! The engine is roaring!  Special thanks to Hans, Buckeye, Mark, Tech 21, Dlacey, Ray, Kfunk and Willys.  Looks like the next item will be fuel pump. Turn on and then shuts down. One problem at a time. Thank you guys. Muchas gracias.

[Hans]

Excellent.  I learned something new too!

[tech71]

Now lose those funky long plug wires and install a heat shield before they melt.

Edited April 18, 2020 by tech71

[RPP]

Tech21- Will do accordingly. Where can I get a heat shield like the one in your picture? Figured out the pump. Now it is an idle issue. Engine on at 3000 rpm. See video below.

[tech71]

The heat shield on my car is the OE part for late models, attaches to the manifold with M6 bolts. 

Not sure where to find one of those and a lot of manifolds have broken off bolts in the attach holes.

The other choice is one of these heat shield gaskets.

https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/heat-shield-exhaust-gasket-m10/

You can get those just about anywhere, disadvantage  is you have to remove the exhaust manifold and that can create problems with broken/ stuck/ stripped studs you have to deal with.

Good info on plug wires here:

Recommend you use copper core 7 or 8mm and you need a long coil wire, not short or just reuse the coil wire you have.

Edited April 18, 2020 by tech71

[Mark92131]

Spark plug wires, you can order a set of Kingsborne with a factory loom to keep it nice and neat and off your exhaust manifold.

 

http://www.kingsbornewires.com/product-p/12-7405l.htm

 

4 hours ago, RPP said:

Engine on at 3000 rpm

 

Can you blip the gas pedal to see if it will idle down?  If it is off the high idle cam, you can wind back the idle screw (counter clockwise) on your Weber to get it to idle at around 900 RPM.  The idle screw faces the firewall, under the linkage to the carb, violet arrow in attached picture.  If you can get it to idle consistently around 900 RPM, then we can set the timing.

 

Did you get that Dwell Meter?  Hook it up and measure the point gap dwell, (.016 or 4mm should get you close to the ideal dwell angle of 59 to 65 degrees).  If it doesn't measure between 59 - 65, continue adjusting your point gap until it does.  Now we can tackle the timing.  Unplug the vacuum line to your distributor and plug the vacuum line with a golf tee or screw/bolt.  Loosen the 10mm nut on the distributor hold-down clamp so you can rotate the distributor housing (but don't move it yet).  Start the car at let it idle, turn in the idle screw on the Weber clockwise until it is idling at 1400RPM according to the Tach.  Stick the timing light down the flywheel hole and turn the distributor housing SLOWLY back and forth until you can see the "steel ball" in the flywheel hole.  That is 25 degrees BTDC and you need to achieve that much advance when the motor is at 1400 RPM.  The RPM may drop or go up as you turn the distributor housing, so you may need to adjust the Weber idle screw slightly to have the engine idle at 1400 RPM and have the steel ball lined up with the cast line in the trans inspection hole, (see 3rd picture).  When you achieve this setting, tighten the 10mm nut on the distributor hold-down clamp to lock it in, use the idle speed screw on the Weber to adjust the idle back to 900 RPM, turn off the motor and reconnect the vacuum hose to your distributor.

 

Now your timing is set, next we'll set the Weber up for best idle.

 

Mark92131

 

[Mike Self]

10 hours ago, tech71 said:

a lot of manifolds have broken off bolts in the attach holes.

If you're lucky enough to score a heat shield and you don't find broken bolts embedded in the manifold, attach with stainless steel M6 x 1 bolts, with stainless steel washers under the bolt heads.  Those sheet steel heat shields rust around the bolt holes and you need washers to keep the shield from puling through the bolts.

 

mike

[RPP]

Thanks for all the good recommendations. Figured out the high idle situation. It had to do with the choke. I had to adjust it manually. I really enjoyed navigating through this timing matter with the back-up from all of your expert opinion. It was really helpful. Will be ordering some new wires and a heat shield.  The car (“Bavario”) got a nice wash and wax today. Well deserved.

[tech71]

8 minutes ago, mike said:

If you're lucky enough to score a heat shield and you don't find broken bolts embedded in the manifold, attach with stainless steel M6 x 1 bolts, with stainless steel washers under the bolt heads.  Those sheet steel heat shields rust around the bolt holes and you need washers to keep the shield from puling through the bolts.

 

mike

And apply copious amounts of anti seize ?

[Buckeye]

Proper bolts for fastening heat-shield is part # 07119915057. Little pricey but....

As far as heat shield itself, link below give you some idea what is looks like, original vs. other options, etc.