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A complete 2002 rebuild.


rjd2

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Hey folks, hope you all are healthy and well. Apologies if this has been covered in the past; I searched and didn't find the info I was looking for.

 

I have a 2002 that I have been very slowly doing a full restoration on. This is my first time doing a complete nut and bolt restoration on a car. It is my second E10, so I have both a running and driving "template" car, as well as a fair amount of familiarity with these cars. Assembly of doors, glass, and interior I have already done on my first car, so I'm confident there. What this is my FIRST time doing is a complete reassembly of the engine, cooling, and fuel delivery system. Here's my starting point:

 

-1973 roundtail car, stripped to shell. repainted in the factory torquise metallic of the 3.0CSL. undercarriage and interior coated.

-short block freshly rebuilt by Fowler engines. new pistons.

-freshly rebuilt E12 head.

-freshly rebuilt Getrag 245 5 speed.

-3.9 LSD

-freshly rebuilt weber carb

 

the car currently has the steering column attached, and the original working brakes and suspension. i've got new motor mounts and a gasket set. I know this may be asking alot, but as I've never done a full reassembly before, I'd love to have any tips or tricks that would be smart to think about before i get too far down any road, and have to backtrack. i've got an engine lift, engine stand, and am working out of a space that gives me access to a 2 post lift. my goal is to have a game plan, and then execute. figure i can have it together in 2-3 weeks. I KID. 2 years is probably more realistic, but that's ok. on the other side, i hope to have what should be as close to a 1+/-2 condition car. thanks so much for any advance tips!!! -RJ

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Edited by rjd2
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It’s all about man hours and being able to have productive hours...with out body work it takes me about 800/1000 man hours to take one apart and put it back together. You can’t just sit around looking at what you need to do!

 

the pictures look great, rebuilding the sub frames is well worth the time... It’s like the Johnny Cash song one piece at a time!

50E63FDF-87D5-43DA-A378-AD8377CABDF6.jpeg

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Don’t let the fear of what could happen

make nothing happen…

 

  

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thanks-yes, i know the man hours is how i'm going to get there. what i am hoping to tap into is the wealth of knowledge here, that would prevent me from getting ahead of myself. for example, what should i address before i put the engine block in? etc etc. i want an order of operation that will hopefully prevent me having to backtrack.

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52 minutes ago, rjd2 said:

thanks-yes, i know the man hours is how i'm going to get there. what i am hoping to tap into is the wealth of knowledge here, that would prevent me from getting ahead of myself. for example, what should i address before i put the engine block in? etc etc. i want an order of operation that will hopefully prevent me having to backtrack.

 

Such lovely paint work rjd2 but I would have filled the two holes on top of the trunk lid which indicates it's from a square tail light car. Again, it's personal choice but in the long run down the road I think you will be happier with a trunk lid like a round tail light suppose to have! 

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13 minutes ago, resra said:

 

Such lovely paint work rjd2 but I would have filled the two holes on top of the trunk lid which indicates it's from a square tail light car. Again, it's personal choice but in the long run down the road I think you will be happier with a trunk lid like a round tail light suppose to have! 

 

Beautiful all around, but I would have done the same - personal choice of course.

 

Gameplan = get that motor in but before you do, line up all the parts and see what needs to be replaced/refurbished. Then get those ordered and while you wait start working on wiring/interior. Never try to "wait on something" - there is always something else to get done.

 

The big parts are engine/transmission, then suspension...

 

Jason

1973 2002tii (2764167), Baikal, Rebuild blog here!

In the past: Verona H&B 1973 2002tii (2762913); Malaga 1975 2002; White 1975 2002

--> Blog: Repro tii cold start relay;   + --> Need an Alpina A4 tuning guide? PM me!

 

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Everyone's different on these- what I've learned is "do it all at once" if the engine's out.

Yes, it adds hours to put new bushings in the subframes, but once it's done,

it's done, and you don't have to come back to it later, take things apart, etc...

 

If you have the ability to put the engine and front subframe in from below-

a 2 post lift is ideal-

I'd go that way.  It's slower at the time, but there is a much reduced chance of

paint damage.

 

t

at this point, would proudly run the squarie trunk roundel.

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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thanks guys. i do have access to a 2 post Bendpak lift in the shop. Ideally, I wouldn't let  the car live on it for more than a few days at a time. I am in no rush-I feel like I'm 80% on my to a full, soup to nuts restoration, so I don't wanna skimp now. If the smart move is to pull subframe now then that's what I'd like to do. Also, anything I should replace/check/etc related to the steering rack?

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1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

Whats a E10?

 

lol, I was waiting for that.  Apparently, it's a beautiful road up in Norway, would like to drive it one day.

https://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/lofoten

 

RJ, great looking car.  That color is Turkis, and was also available on standard 3.0cs and 2002.  It's absolutely stunning on the road, surrounded by a world of grey/white/black drab-mobiles.  

 

 

1) As SoM alluded to, no self respecting 2002 owner refers to the car as the "e10".  It's increase in usage is directly tied to the 2002's rise in popularity among the "stance" crowd (circa 2012/13).  Most of those fellows have also done away with it at this point.

 

2)  When doing reassembly, I like to do things in related "chunks".  That is like saying "interior", "trim/glass", "fuel/brake lines/hoses", "rear subframe", "front subframe/engine".  There is obviously cross/pollinating, but it helps.  I'd suggest starting with "fuel/brake lines/hoses" as it's easiest to route lines without everything else in the way.  I'm with Toby on installing the engine/subframe from the bottom if you have access to that slick lift.

 

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3) Start a blog!  It helps to keep you motivated and see how far you've come.

 

 

Edited by AceAndrew
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10 hours ago, rjd2 said:

I have an E10 that I have been very slowly doing a full restoration on. This is my first time doing a complete nut and bolt restoration on a car. It is my second E10,

Without meaning to be pedantic, but especially since it's your second one,the original 1966 2 door sedan is a Type 114.  The picture of Georg Bertram's final rendering of the body (pp 24-25 in the factory book "The BMW 02 Series, The Cult Car" is clearly labeled (and referred to in the text) as the Type 114.   "E10" refers to the touring body (which was originally designated the 114K). 

 

Get yourself a copy of Jackie Jouret's book on the history of the 2002; lotsa great information and coming from her, you know it's correct.  

 

cheers and welcome to the board; your car is one of my favorite colors, and also one of the rarest (Ceylon is the other)

 

mike

 

PS--suggest covering those large holes in the rear package shelf with sealed up thin sheet metal (aluminum is fine--it won't show.  It'll keep gas fumes out of the passenger compartment.  You can do surface mount rear shelf speakers--they're much more period looking anyway.

Edited by mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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6 hours ago, M2M3 said:

How do you rebuild ethanol laced gas?

Put it on the rack.

 

RJ, you have a box, not a rack.

 

Sorry

 

t

is growing a pair in these housebound times

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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3 hours ago, mike said:

 "E10" refers to the touring body (which was originally designated the 114K). 

 

 

A perfect example of how things get started and eventually taken for granted. The Touring is typ E6.

The use of E10 probably started in a similar way.

 

009sma.jpg

Les

'74 '02 - Jade Touring (RHD)

'76 '02 - Delk's "Da Beater"

FAQ Member #17

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16 hours ago, AceAndrew said:

lol, I was waiting for that.  Apparently, it's a beautiful road up in Norway, would like to drive it one day.

https://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/lofoten

 

That's pretty far North, but I've been over the Trollstigen in the 02

https://www.fjordnorway.com/top-attractions/trollstigen

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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9 hours ago, 02Les said:

The Touring is typ E6.

I stand corrected.  That's what I get for trusting my very old memory...but I do know an E10 is something...I just forget which...

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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