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Heater valve rebuild...opening size question.


Highnote1

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I have rebuilt my entire heater box using the Faq. I used a rebuild kit on the valve from Blunt. I read on the diy that if you’re heater valve cable broke off while taking it apart...don’t fret...just reattach and set it for full closed for summer driving and the small opening that will result when turning the heat on will work fine when winter comes. 
 

Can you check these pics and see if that opening is enough for me to count on heat? Id hate to get it back in there after all this and the heat sucks!

 

First pic is closed, second is heater on. Thanks!!

 

 

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I'm a noobie who just recently finished mine so TIFWIW....something appears screwy.  My open valve position is a full port, when closed there is no opening. you might speak to the vendor who supplied the repair piece. Also you may have an adjustment problem , i.e., alignment of the plastic piece with the operating arm. No doubt there will be others posting pix of what makes up the correct kit

Edited by Mike A

73 Tii stock build, Porsche Macan   , E46 330i Florida driver, 

….and like most of us, way too many (maybe 30 at last count) I wish I hadn't sold ?

 

 

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My first try would be to reduce the shut bleed hole to about 1/4 showing then see how much hot that will give you. Also where do you live? it will have a lot to do with how much hot you need.

Edited by Son of Marty

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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Texas! Heat...maybe December...through February. 
 

Now you have me scared. I checked the fitment of the guts of the valve with the photo frI’m this article. I know it right...but that little hole I just figured was part of it. When that is visable...the other side is closed. I looked before I closed it up. 

AE09FAEA-40CF-45FC-AAB0-0F922B7AFF1F.png

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