Hand brake light switch photos?

[lobf]

Hi folks- 

 

I took my hand brake light switch off about a decade ago to fix the bracket that the hand brake mounts in, so naturally I have zero recollection about how it goes back in. 

 

I just bought a new one but I'm having a hard time finding photos of how it's mounted, can anyone send me a photo of theirs? 

 

Thanks! 

[Mike Self]

Can't help with a picture,  but if you look at the top of the bracket that supports the power brake booster--the part of the bracket that's between the booster and the firewall, you'll see a threaded hole--about 12-14mm in diameter, with threads that match your new switch.  Underneath the hole is a little protrusion n the brake pedal linkage.  First, run the lock nut up the switch threads as far as it'll go, then install the switch by screwing it into the hole until the plunger is depressed by touching that protrusion.  Tighten the lock nut, plug in the two wires (doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal) then turn the ignition on to check the adjustment.  With your foot off the pedal, the brake lights should be off  Soon as you press the pedal, the light should come on.  If it's on all the time, screw the switch inwards 'till it goes out, then re-tighten the lock nut.  If it doesn't come on at all, loosen the switch and re-tighten the lock nut.  

 

Takes longer to read this than it does to install the switch ?.

 

mike

 

 

[kbmb02]

2 minutes ago, Mike Self said:

Can't help with a picture,  but if you look at the top of the bracket that supports the power brake booster--the part of the bracket that's between the booster and the firewall, you'll see a threaded hole--about 12-14mm in diameter, with threads that match your new switch.  Underneath the hole is a little protrusion n the brake pedal linkage.  First, run the lock nut up the switch threads as far as it'll go, then install the switch by screwing it into the hole until the plunger is depressed by touching that protrusion.  Tighten the lock nut, plug in the two wires (doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal) then turn the ignition on to check the adjustment.  With your foot off the pedal, the brake lights should be off  Soon as you press the pedal, the light should come on.  If it's on all the time, screw the switch inwards 'till it goes out, then re-tighten the lock nut.  If it doesn't come on at all, loosen the switch and re-tighten the lock nut.  

 

Takes longer to read this than it does to install the switch ?.

 

mike

 

 

 

@Mike Self ... the OP said “hand brake switch” ... time to write another graf!

[Son of Marty]

On the right side half moon that supports the p/b lever there should be a single screw hole that attaches the p/b light switch the bracket, it's then bent so that with the p/b is on the switch is closed and with it off the switch is free and turns the light off.

[Mike Self]

1 hour ago, kbmb02 said:

the OP said “hand brake switch” ... time to write another graf!

Oops!  It's late, and I'm old!  Save the above for future reference.   To the original poster:  only squarelights have a handbrake warning light, so I hope that's what you have...

 

mike

 

PS--the switch works the same way as the foot brake light switch--a normally on switch, it's depressed by the handbrake handle when the handbrake lever is "off" and extends when the lever is pulled to engage the parking brake.  

[02Les]

Scroll halfway down the page to see pics posted by Bill & Jim.

 

[PaulTWinterton]

[JohnS]

That is a great picture of an excellent wiring job Paul.  Love the label.

[PaulTWinterton]

1 hour ago, JohnS said:

That is a great picture of an excellent wiring job Paul.  Love the label.

 

Thanks.  I've become a labeling freak since I got my heat gun (10 bucks at Harbor Freight) and clear shrink tubing.  If there is one thing I hate about old cars is the pathetic job POs do when wiring accessories.  I vow to make the understanding of the wires and routing as straight forward as possible.

 

Note:  73s didn't come to NA with that switch (or wiring).  I routed it myself.

 

  

[Einspritz]

Corollary: You can buy heat shrink cartridges for the Brother Touch and print directly on the shrink. Now you have a reason to buy a new tool!

 

Batteries not included.

[lobf]

On 1/16/2021 at 7:38 AM, 02Les said:

Scroll halfway down the page to see pics posted by Bill & Jim.

 

This is what I needed, thanks so much! 

 

I was flat broke when the metal pieces that the e-brake pivots on snapped off. I think I had a local welder just put a couple of other pieces of metal in there so I'm not sure I still have the original holes. Thanks so much! 

[lobf]

Okay so I’m not understanding something apparently. 
 

I figured I had stuck the wire against the body of the car, grounding it, since the hand brake light has just been stuck on for ages. 
 

however when I went to reattach this switch, I see that the wire that I believe to be the hand brake indicator (see photo) wasn’t grounded. And when I do ground it nothing changes on my dash... the hand brake light is always on. 
 

how could the hand brake light be on if it’s not being grounded to anything?

 

edit: and shouldn’t I see current on this wire? I’ve got none. 

Edited January 20, 2021 by lobf
Additional question

[PaulTWinterton]

7 minutes ago, lobf said:

how could the hand brake light be on

 

The light on the dash also reminds you that the fluid level in the reservoir is low.  I believe this to be true on the 74-76 cars, although I'm not 100% sure.

 

I would check the reservoir to make sure the wires are intact and the fluid level is up.

Edited January 20, 2021 by PaulTWinterton

[lobf]

I forgot about that! Good call, thank you. 
 

Regardless, if that is the correct wire

for the indicator switch, shouldn’t it be hot? 

[lobf]

Brake fluid reservoir is full so that’s not it. 
 

edit- I need the find the 2nd wire that goes in to this. I just re-read the thread and noticed that comment. The wiring diagram made it look like this was a single wire I was looking for. Stand by...

Edited January 20, 2021 by lobf