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Valve cover gasket


jackiesilva

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55 minutes ago, visionaut said:

Your shoulder nuts should work fine mechanically. But if aesthetics or originality matter to you, you can replace them with cap nuts . Either the kind from the hardware store with a washer or the BMW ones.

 

I like the cap nuts -- definitely seem to have a much cleaner look. Thanks.

 

55 minutes ago, visionaut said:

Get the best valve cover gasket you can get. More than just sealing, you’ll be taking the cover off & on when adjusting valves, so a durable one aids reuse.

When I originally posted here, I was wondering about quality/brand name of VC gaskets. 2002iii recommended victor reinz. would you agree? 

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Blunt sells acorn nuts with a free spinning washer.  Makes for a cleaner looking install.

 

I also just swapped out my valve cover gasket with a Victor Reinz gasket (also from Blunt for $11.00).  No leaks, good fitment, works like a charm.  

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Engine bay OCD is a real problem

 

@02carbs 

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I suspect that few will agree with me regarding choice of valve cover gasket.  With that said, I'll offer my two cents anyway. 

 

I recently had reason to replace my valve cover gasket and first did so with one of the modern sandwich-style versions, but quickly replaced it with an old-style cork gasket (Fel Pro from O'Reilly's Auto Parts).  The cork worked great while the other one didn't. 

 

Here's the reason.  At some point in my car's life the head must have been planed.  However, the cam sprocket cover was not also planed at the same time, so it's just a litlle higher than the the top of the head.  I've dealt with that in the past by applying a coating of Permatex on the gasket in that area and it worked fine.  This time, I was trying to deal with it without gunking up the gasket with sealer so I applied a little bit of the sealer on the mismatched joint, and made it smoothly join the slightly stepped surfaces, then let it dry before putting on the gasket.  The modern gasket leaked.  with the good ol' cork version, not a drop. 

 

As has been pointed out, the modern gaskets are likely to be reusable much more than the cork.  If memory serves correctly, the original valve cover gaskets on 50 year-old BMWs used to be cork.  Maybe I'm wrong.  Of course, the correct solution would be to machine the sprocket cover correctly.  But I'm satisfied the the problem is solved adequately without machining. 

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hmm that's interesting. I'm glad it solved your problem.

 

I guess another question I have is: does a valve gasket replacement require some kind of sealant? or maybe if's it's rubber, then sealant isn't necessary? I know this is different, but when replacing the oil pan gasket, we did use sealant, but yeah, cork. 

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52 minutes ago, jackiesilva said:

guess another question I have is: does a valve gasket replacement require some kind of sealant? or maybe if's it's rubber, then sealant isn't necessary?

I clean both mating surfaces, then go bare with the rubber one. 

Remove and wipe down the gasket if reusing, like when you're doing a valve adjustment...

 

I think mine's an Elring.

 

Valvecover_gasket.jpg

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57 minutes ago, jackiesilva said:

hmm that's interesting. I'm glad it solved your problem.

 

I guess another question I have is: does a valve gasket replacement require some kind of sealant? or maybe if's it's rubber, then sealant isn't necessary? I know this is different, but when replacing the oil pan gasket, we did use sealant, but yeah, cork. 

No sealant should be necessary but I like to use some gasket tack to glue it to the head but not the valve cover so it stays with the head when you remove the valve cover for valve adjustment.

 

I've reused the cork gasket before as long as it doesn't get bent or rip it should be fine.

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I don't recall ever seeing a cork gasket, at least from 1972. Most are all similar, with some having a small, low bead of red sealant in the middle, but can't remember the brand. My experience has been that if the mating surfaces are flat, then it won't leak if properly torqued.

 

 

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