Heater Box Rebuild Question-Not covered in FAQ-Sort of long

[Guest Anonymous]

I'm rebuilding my heater box. Have new replacement heat H2O/hot air cable set from Maximillian. Control cable for H2O was bent at 90deg to fit into H2O valve lever lock bolt on old cable. Cable broke at the bend some time in past which is what required replacement cable set. Question is: Which way to bend cable to fit in lock bolt? (1)cable below bolt, bend up or (2) cable above bolt, bend down. Lock bold is ?welded? into control arm so bolt doesn't pivot as control arm is swung through arc when valve is actuated-requiring control cable to flex substantially at the bend .Hence the fatigue fracture of the cable at the bend. Should the lock bolt swivel in the control arm-allowing more of a straight line push/pull. Would hate to bend it the wrong way, have it break prematurely, requiring another disassembly, another new cable. Am I missing something?? TIA. Carl K

[Guest Anonymous]

if you are concerned about the set screw backing out. There is no need to have the bolt "pivot" as the bowden cable housing will flex to relieve stress on the cable.

[Guest Anonymous]

(nt)

[Guest Anonymous]

the hole in the pinch bolt that's attached to the hot water valve. DO NOT kink the cable at its end. Sounds like a PO bodged it 'cause the bolt wasn't holding the cable properly. And the pinch bolt/nut assy should pivot on the end of the arm that attaches to the water valve. With the heater out, it should be easy to remove the arm and heat/soak in penetrating oil the bolt/nut assy until it pivots properly on the arm (or get another one). If the bolt doesn't pivot, it'll bind, then break your new cable. You DON'T want that to happen!

While you're at it, check the heater valve for smooth, easy operation, and before reinstalling the heater, make sure the mixer door (where the other cable on the temp control lever goes) doesn't hit the fan blades when fully open or closed. Much easier to adjust out of the car than when reinstalled...

cheers

Mike