Car stutters and stalls when when trying to start?

[Guest Anonymous]

Is this just because its a 30 year old car? I have to get up every morning to go to school, and when I start my car the first time it just shuts off( Right after turning the key). It makes like a choking bubbling sound. Then once I finally get it started, I have to rev it for like 15 minutes before it safely stays at idle, or it will just choke and shut off again. Even then sometimes when i put it into first it still shuts off. When I get out of school at @:00 i have to do the same thing. Does it just take a long time for it to start up, or is this something i can fix?

[Guest Anonymous]

It is required to richen the fuel mixture when the motor is cold...

[Guest Anonymous]

*Just in case you don't know this - but you probably do* You may have an electric or water automatic choke. In that case you need to press the gas pedal all the way down once to squirt extra fuel and set the choke. This raises the idle. The automatic choke, whether electric or water, will automatically shut off when it determines that the engine is warmed up enough and doesn't need it anymore. On older cars the choke mechanism gets dirty and will not operate properly, if at all.

If you are a DIY person, it's not difficult to clean the choke mechanism and reset it. Get a Haynes manual or similar and read it. Just DON'T USE GREASE. It will harden up in the winter and cause the choke to not work (when you need it the most). Plus it just attracts dirt and gets bunged up sooner.

[Guest Anonymous]

(nt)

[Guest Anonymous]

of the column there might be a pull toggle. If so, you have a manual choke. Pull it out before starting the car. Get some gas in the carb and turn it over.

If not a manual, it is either electric or water. I think you trigger those by depressing the accelerator once to the floor and releasing. Then turn over the engine.

Of course if I am wrong, someone will tell me.

[Guest Anonymous]

it may be that you don't have a choke at all and the carb is wide open the whole time. my old '76 weber had the electric choke removed and the butterfly valves stayed open all the time. normally not a big deal, but in the winter i really had to pump the gas a lot before starting it.

[Guest Anonymous]

It has a heated metal strip that kind of expand and turns off the choke after a while. My guess is that the choke mechanism shall be checked, tested and adjusted.

[Guest Anonymous]

When i start the car and its doing its shut off thing and i have to rev it, when the revs get real low and i step on the gas the car sputters and "chokes", and sometimes will shut off, while other times i can get it to rev up again. Also I have no manual choke thing that i have to pull. Still unsure about the steppong on the gas paedal choke though.

[Guest Anonymous]

It sounds like your choke is not set at all or you don't have one. When you try and give it gas and it sputters and *chokes* that typically means it's lean (not enough gas) which is the EXACT opposite of the condition you want during cold startup. You want MORE fuel, not MORE air. The choke not only closes down the air inlet, it also raises the idle speed.

I don't know how hands on you are, but anyone can take the airfilter housing apart to take a look at the top of the carb. Do that and check to see that you even have any choke butterflies. They are right at the top (2 of them) and they are rectangular. The shaft they rid on is offset so when the choke is set and those butterflies are closed, they can open when you give it more throttle because the engine will need more air to accelerate. Assuming you have a choke, and assuming the engine is cold, reach over to the firewall and push the throttle linkage all the way down and then let it back up (or twist the throttle right at the carb - it's easier at the firewall). You should see the choke butterflies close when you push on the throttle linkage and then stay closed when you let go. You should also see and hear fuel squirt into both barrels of the carb. These are two important things that have to happen to set the choke. The other is after setting it, you should notice a slight gap between the idle speed screw and the linkage at the base of the carb. This is because the choke mechanism (kind of hidden on the right side of the carb) does this.

Try that and see what happens on your car. Again, if you're a DIY'er ,you should get a Haynes manual for the Webers and read about it. Then take your carb off and start looking at it and you'll figure it out. People say bad things about automatic chokes, and they can be temperimental, but when you get them working they are great. I have a water choke 38/38 Weber and I swear my car starts within half a crank over and idles fine.

One thing to remember - when the choke is not adjusted quite right, it is possible for it to set after pressing down the gas the first time, but then after hitting the gas again it "unsets" itself.

Anyway - I tried looking real quick for a good website to explain it but most people don't bother with auto chokes I guess. Like I said, study it, figure it out, understand it, and you'll get it working like a charm and you'll love it.

Good luck.

[Guest Anonymous]

After i rev it and its idle stays regular it drives like a dream. Ill check into the whole choke thing

Thanks Alot