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Fan shroud on Wallothnesch hi cap radiator?


WRKO

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Hello all -- I am aware that the WN high cooling rate radiator does not have the tabs to accept a fan shroud, but it seem like it would be easy enough to over come this issue in order to install one.  Has anyone attempted this?  I am also aware that the WN radiator is to be used with the 360mm fan only, so I am wondering if there is an interference issue I can't see immediately.

 

thanks

wrko

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Good you are aware of it, I got caught by surprise. 
If you have an old OE radiator you can desolder the side supports from it and install on your brand spanking pristine new Hi Cap radiator?

I just went with an electric fan, solved my fan to upgraded alternator clearance issues as well

76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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Needing to preserve the appearance of originality on my bought-new ‘76, I had the shroud brackets removed from an old radiator and soldered onto the new W&N.

 

Do I still need the shroud? I don’t know. I both (a.) replaced the factory radiator with the W&N radiator, and (b.) replaced the original (1976) Clardy auxiliary fan with a 12” Spal — as part of the same project. I don’t know what each of those components contributed. The effect on cooling, especially when operating the A/C in summer, is amazing. So… do it for appearances, if that’s important to you, and you have a square taillight. Or pass on the shroud for now, if an original appearance isn’t critical. You could always add it later.

 

(I believe the factory shroud and the 400 mm. tropical fan are mutually exclusive.)

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

36BA56FD-B13E-4BFE-9557-A5F56CD779A4.jpeg

9B9726B9-E8F3-44D9-80CF-E5C5B8C1D58C.jpeg

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1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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27 minutes ago, Conserv said:

Needing to preserve the appearance of originality on my bought-new ‘76, I had the shroud brackets removed from an old radiator and soldered onto the new W&N.

 

Do I still need the shroud? I don’t know. I both (a.) replaced the factory radiator with the W&N radiator, and (b.) replaced the original (1976) Clardy auxiliary fan with a 12” Spal — as part of the same project. I don’t know what each of those components contributed. The effect on cooling, especially when operating the A/C in summer, is amazing. So… do it for appearances, if that’s important to you, and you have a square taillight. Or pass on the shroud for now, if an original appearance isn’t critical. You could always add it later.

 

(I believe the factory shroud and the 400 mm. tropical fan are mutually exclusive.)

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

36BA56FD-B13E-4BFE-9557-A5F56CD779A4.jpeg

9B9726B9-E8F3-44D9-80CF-E5C5B8C1D58C.jpeg

Conserv -- this last photo is what I aspire to and will not attain on this 74 driver.

 

And for the record - I already have the WN installed and it is working fine, but I am currently in the DMV and it gets hot here in the summer and the needle on the temp gauge has crept over mid point if I am in traffic.  Traffic in this area can be terrible and over heating/breaking down in it is a long held fear of mine! 

   All this said, I don't have a shroud and it looks like a new one is $130ish and I foolishly scrapped my spare 3 radiators reclently in a fit of clearing out extra bits.

 

thanks for the input!

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I recently did like Conserv Steve and used the shroud bits from my old radiator.  In southwest FL heat,  so far I can’t get the water temp above 3 o’clock on the temp gauge without sitting in traffic with the AC blasting, and then only just (but then, it’s only just June).  If you’re not in a southern climate, and don’t have AC, I think you should work the car harder and see how hot it gets.  If you haven’t flushed the block hard with a rust remover, and replaced the water pump and thermostat, you don’t really know what you’ll gain from modifying the radiator to take a shroud. But yeah — next time hange onto those old shroud bits!  They have some value.   And, if you have it, the lower section of the radiator with the side-exiting outlet.  For AC cars, sometimes it’s hard to use the W&N radiator, as the lower outlet exits right into the AC compressor....

‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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15 hours ago, 0257 said:


… For AC cars, sometimes it’s hard to use the W&N radiator, as the lower outlet exits right into the AC compressor....

 


I also switched over both W&N radiators (one each, for my ‘73 and ‘76) from the inboard straight lower outlet to the outboard angled outlet. But…. as @02les previously noted, W&N now sells a version of their radiator with the outboard angled outlet — and a hefty price tag.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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48 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

I miss Curt Ingram to the max, RIP Curt.

Dunno if they're still available, but years before Curt came out with his 3 row core radiator, a local shop here in Dayton found a 3 row core that would fit exactly into my OEM 2002 radiator...IIRC it was a RADAC 25.  This was around 1987 or so, and it's still in the car...I have A/C, the large tropical fan (no shroud, it's a 73) and have no cooling problems, even during a dash across Kansas on I-70 in 101 degree air temp.  

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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15 hours ago, WRKO said:

but I am currently in the DMV and it gets hot here in the summer

Can you please tell a country boy from Orygun.. where or what the schizzle is "the DMV"?

Edited by tech71
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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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In Orrygun, they call it ODOT.

 

A shroud is ALWAYS a good idea on a fan- 

 

I forget the numbers, but it's something like a 50% improvement in draw- through applications.

 

A shroud is ALWAYS a big pain in the ass-

 

I made up the numbers, but it can add 15 minutes to 2 days to the time to remove a radiator.

 

t

it's 32mm, reverse- threaded, and solidly rusted on there.

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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