New to the group, Two days into ownership, Slow slow car...

[Shiparino]

@D Seattle - I do plan on upgrading the brakes, but before I buy anything, I'm figuring out what this engine needs.  What did you go with?  Weighing the Volvo vs big Wilwood in the front, plus level 1 discs in the back vs big buck Wilwood option.

 

Side note, I actually spent 2 years with my 69 02 in Seattle (84-85).  Also had a 68 911 up there, had some crazy sideways episodes in the snow with that rear engine car.

[Solarphil]

Keeping with the "drive and enjoy/get-to-know-it" theme, you can make a serious improvement without tearing everything down with good pads and a flush. I’ve been really impressed with the set of Porterfield pads I picked up a while ago based on recommendations from this forum’s learned members. Yeah it’s not as sexy as a Wilwood kit, but you can be done by this weekend and save your shekels until you have enough time to chart out what all the car really needs.

[Shiparino]

The "get to know it" suggestions are noted.  We'll see after/if I get this engine running a little better.  I left the new 3 core radiator at the sellers house about 3 1/2 hours away, so need to figure out how to get that.  Then I just took off the bumpers.  Need to replace one section of the floor (rear passenger) and the spare tire well.  Then, if part of the carpet is pulled back, why not just replace it?  But hell, the door cards look shabby next to that new carpet (and new seats already in the car), so better get them done.  Oh damn, all the window and door rubber is a mess, so out it comes...  hahaha  This is what I did on my last project.  Got the TR4 running, but never took it out of the garage, then sorted out the electrical... then pulled the engine and trans and got to work.  Didn't put the car on the road for a year and a half.  The "running and driving" TR4 I bought on auction.

[D Seattle]

5 hours ago, Shiparino said:

I do plan on upgrading the brakes, but before I buy anything, I'm figuring out what this engine needs.  What did you go with? 

I brought my car to a local guy, won't mention the name here, and followed his recommendation which i think was Subaru of all things?  He'd been doing it for years and it works. So, okay.  but If I had to do it over again, I'd go with the wildwood.  Or heck, maybe even gti.  Bet you wish you had the 911 back!  Lots of great advice here as you make your way through the car. World upholstery for, shocking, upholstery, is great for upgrade to leather.  I did that.  Not cheap but I would do it again.  Crowders for steering wheels.   Ireland engineering is a good resource for parts but has its dowsides.  I'd check out the classified section here on a daily basis.  Its shocking what turns up.  I've bought, what is called her unobtaniaum parts, pretty well that way.

 

good luck!  Have fun!  I get at least 4 thumbs up every time I drive the car.  I figure I am doing a public service.  ?

[Shiparino]

Ok, peered under the air cleaner into unfamiliar territory.  

• Pulled off the electric fuel pump, to relocate and found that it was powered by a hot wire just wrapped around a fuse.
• Also couldn't decipher the rats nest of vacuum hoses.  All were hooked to something except for one I circled in red.
• I also didn't realize that there was a fuel return line.  I'm holding up the T connection where 4 lines converge.
• Where does everybody install the fuel pump, (dump question) which line is the out?

I had a Weber on my last car, plus it was about 35 years ago, but I don't recall this much garbage in the there.  What needs to stay?  Can any of it go away?

 

@D Seattle, does your upholstery guy do door cards?  Mine might be good enough to go on new inserts, but they have the obligatory speaker holes, so they need to be changed out.

Edited July 28, 2021 by Shiparino
forgot to attach pics

['76mintgrün'02]

Nice bunch of photos.  Here is a recent thread that discusses the fuel return valve, as well as some of your other questions.

 

 

Here is one photo from that thread that shows the exhaust emissions sticker for a '76 CA car, which I believe has the same system as a '75.  John posted a nice large photo that you can zoom in on just by clicking on it twice, once the + in a magnifying glass option comes up.

There is a little confusion in that thread about the fuel return valve being part of the emissions system because it is shown on that sticker.  By that logic, so is the distributor.

 

I'd try that mechanical pump, before messing with the electrical one.  Let it be wet with fuel for a bit, before giving up on it and replace all the fuel hoses from the tank to the carb.  A lot of the vacuum stuff can go away with emissions equipment that you don't need to keep.  The search function will bring up a lot of threads about de-smogging the engine bay.

 

That last photo showing the fuel soaked cloth covered hose is a good one.  You'll read about the plastic sleeve on the sender nipple in the link above.

 

As for the BIG brake UPgrade, that's not going to help much with the one-time quick stop times, if your stock system is in good working order.  If Dan stomped on the brakes and they did not lock up, the problem was not their size.  Brake upgrades keep the brakes from overheating as soon in very demanding situations.  The stock brakes on these cars are very good.

 

Tom

Edited July 28, 2021 by '76mintgrün'02
added a photo

[Shiparino]

@'76mintgrün'02 Thanks, I did run into a similar post while searching last night.  Was hoping for an easier setup, but I guess these early smog era cars have this added bonus.

[Hans]

And move the fuel filter way from the head.

[deschodt]

I made the same comments when I bought mine, my 912 (1600cc) was faster which wasn't right. Turned out my carb secondary was never opening ! That's where the fun begins... After messing around with that for a while I went EFI and the car is very "quick" now. 

[Shiparino]

@deschodt Did you go with the 318i system?  How difficult was it to source and install?  Any idea of how it compares to the power output of a dual DCOE setup?  

[Son of Marty]

11 hours ago, Shiparino said:

Where does everybody install the fuel pump

Funny thing is you have a stock fuel pump installed, just bypassed, it's just below the red circled blue hose in this picture. No idea why it was bypassed but after being left open I wouldn't count on it. After looking at how the fuel hose is hooked to the inlet side of the filter I would rip out all the rubber fuel lines and renew them with good quality new hose rated for use with gasahol.

 

[Shiparino]

@Son of Marty Yeah, I did see that pump, clearly there was some laziness on the part of the previous to the previous owner.  There are lots of worn and grimy parts.  Tempted to just get a new one, but since I already have the electric pump, I'll move it to the gas tank and wire it up a "little" cleaner.  New rubber lines are a must, as most everything is brittle and cracking.  Might also decide to change out all the vacuum lines.  I did see a local CL post for a Weber + Manifold for $150, which should cut out the return line and half the vacuum lines, even though that's really not the ultimate setup I want to achieve.  A two stage Weber and TII exhaust manifold is what I ran on the 69.  If I do this + all the tune up suggestions, I would hope I was at the level I seem to be missing.

 

['76mintgrün'02]

3 minutes ago, Shiparino said:

I did see a local CL post for a Weber + Manifold for $150, which should cut out the return line

 

 

Not mine.  I like my return line.  If you do order a new pump, pay a little more for the long neck version (like you have).

Tom

[Son of Marty]

When you rewire your electric pump be sure to include one of these in case of unplanned stops. Inertia switch 20 bucks on amazon

 

 

 

 

[Shiparino]

@Son of Marty- Thanks, good advice.