Kugelfischer oil seals

[Razzman88]

Bringing back an old thread! My car is stalling at idle after a short drive. It struggles to maintain idle after a few miles of driving. I just recently changed my alternator, battery charging. Thought I might have a vacuum leak somewhere so I smoke tested the car. The only area smoke came from was my Kugelfischer pump. I'm thinking my gaskets and seals are giving up? 

[bergie33]

Is this a new problem, or has it been like this awhile? Is the car new to you? 

[dlacey]

4 hours ago, Razzman88 said:

I smoke tested the car. The only area smoke came from was my Kugelfischer pump. I'm thinking my gaskets and seals are giving up? 

The only part of the pump that's connected to the air plenum is the warm up regulator on the back of the pump. If you did the smoke test with the engine cold, this "air leak" at the WUR could be considered normal operation.... If the engine was warmed up fully during the test then your result suggests the WUR is leaking (not working) or the pipe WUR-plenum compromised.

[Razzman88]

3 hours ago, dlacey said:

The only part of the pump that's connected to the air plenum is the warm up regulator on the back of the pump. If you did the smoke test with the engine cold, this "air leak" at the WUR could be considered normal operation.... If the engine was warmed up fully during the test then your result suggests the WUR is leaking (not working) or the pipe WUR-plenum compromised.

Thank you Dave! Your response lead me to a previous post you had explaining the rebuild of the WUR. Now I just need to find someone to do it.. I’m a little intimidated in doing this myself. Thanks again

[Razzman88]

5 hours ago, bergie33 said:

Is this a new problem, or has it been like this awhile? Is the car new to you? 

Hi, I started noticing idle changes from a constant 1500 rpm to 1000 back to 1500. The car is new to me. Wen through decades

 

 

of records and nothing touched on the pump. I’m the 2nd owner. Dave thinks it’s the WUR, and after doing some reading I think it might be. Do I send the entire pump in for a rebuild or replace the WUR?

[dlacey]

2 hours ago, Razzman88 said:

Do I send the entire pump in for a rebuild or replace the WUR

I would start by doing the WUR rebuild, it's a separate part on the back of the pump. KF pumps themselves are extremely rugged, I would leave it alone unless you know there's something definitely wrong with it (tests in blue book )

 

[SydneyTii]

You can buy the WUR parts in the faq store or I think that Pro Bimmer do rebuilds its  not a terribly hard job to do the WUR and if you have a Tii the sooner you can learn about and maintain it the better off you will be, it’s a clever piece of kit and as already noted pretty rugged. Good luck report back interested minds need to know😉

[Razzman88]

On 4/6/2024 at 8:57 PM, dlacey said:

I would start by doing the WUR rebuild, it's a separate part on the back of the pump. KF pumps themselves are extremely rugged, I would leave it alone unless you know there's something definitely wrong with it (tests in blue book )

 

Hi Dave, so I’ve ordered the WUR that’s available on the Faq store, and I’m going over the instructions and I noticed my linkage. does this link look right? 

[bergie33]

That looks a little homemade to me, but from what I see, as long as it moves freely and is the correct length, there shouldn't be an issue with it.

[SydneyTii]

I don’t think I’ve seen one like that before! But if it works then it works, I just couldn’t live with it, guess I’m retentive 🙄 it’s such an good solid system it’s worth getting right and the linkages aren’t that expensive.

[JohnS]

On 4/8/2024 at 1:55 PM, Razzman88 said:

Hi Dave, so I’ve ordered the WUR that’s available on the Faq store, and I’m going over the instructions and I noticed my linkage. does this link look right? 

 

Made me think of the late Paul Winterton and how he re-made a lot of those "magic" linkage pieces for our group.  

Lot's of information about that specific linkage piece here:

 

[Stevenc22]

I think that is the stock plastic linkage that crack and got smeared in metal epoxy putty.

 

I remade that linkage using 8mm ball joints and a stainless steel rod cut to length and then set to factory length per the manual.

 

 

Amazon.com

WWW.AMAZON.COM

 

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WWW.AMAZON.COM

 

 

Edited April 12 by Stevenc22

[Einspritz]

I think I still have a few that I made last year for sale.

 

I don't recall the price, but if you can wait untill after the 23rd I'll let you know as I'm in South Florida until then.

 

Pm me if you're interested.

[JohnS]

1 hour ago, Einspritz said:

I think I still have a few that I made last year for sale.

 

I don't recall the price, but if you can wait untill after the 23rd I'll let you know as I'm in South Florida until then.

 

Pm me if you're interested.

I knew that somebody else had re-made them too but couldn't remember who it was.  Yours also had the plastic ends didn't they?

Edited April 12 by JohnS

[Einspritz]

Yup. Stainless steel rod, plastic ends