Update! My wiring nightmare... where do I go with it?

[Rob Zaeos]

8 minutes ago, John76 said:

Is the new PXL flasher relay ungrounded?    The brown ground wire on the stock 4-wire plug is not used.

Yup! Ungrounded relay. I did not use the brown wire but good suggestion!

[Rob Zaeos]

Another update... with the black and white blinker indicator wire that goes to the dash unplugged from the flasher relay, the blinker functions as normal, meaning it doesn't blink on its own when car is running. I'm assuming there is some voltage leak in the instrument panel maybe, or possibly something shorted.

I'm correct to assume there shouldn't be any voltage in that black and white indicator wire unless the blinkers or hazards are on right?

 

 

Edited October 20, 2021 by All Day

[ray_]

That's weird. Yeah that wire just feeds the trace to the indicator bulb. 

 

Check the unplugged lead and see if you are measuring voltage there.

 

I'd suspect the relay before thinking the cluster trace is compromised. 

 

Cheers,

[Rob Zaeos]

2 hours ago, ray_ said:

That's weird. Yeah that wire just feeds the trace to the indicator bulb. 

 

Check the unplugged lead and see if you are measuring voltage there.

 

I'd suspect the relay before thinking the cluster trace is compromised. 

 

Cheers,

Checked the unplugged indicator lead (Black/white) and got 3mv with key in on position and 5mv with the engine running.

The +12 green violet in had 11.6v key in on position and 12.7v engine running as I believe it should.

 

Would 3mv be enough to give a faint glow and 5mv be just enough to trigger the flasher?

[Tommy]

1 hour ago, All Day said:

Would 3mv be enough to give a faint glow and 5mv be just enough to trigger the flasher?

No, 3mV won't glow a thing. About the relay functioning - sorry can't say anything.

[Rob Zaeos]

12 hours ago, Tommy said:

No, 3mV won't glow a thing. About the relay functioning - sorry can't say anything.

Thanks for this. Apologies for my electrical ignorance! It seems like an extremely low voltage, so I'm going to assume it is a faulty relay even though its new. I'll purchase another and see if it fixes it.

[Rob Zaeos]

SUCCESS! Apparently my new relay was faulty.... replaced with a new one and blinkers, hazards, lights and instrument cluster all functioning normal! Seems as the PO wired in the extra wires for the blinker switch on the column. Thanks @Mike Self and @ray_ for leading me to the answer, and everyone else for all of your advice and encouragement.

 

Now onto fixing and cleaning up the harness and re-wrapping.

The one thing I am unsure or how to route are all of the power wires that are connected to the starter to distribute. ( See attached )

Should I buy a distribution block of some sort that I can attach to the firewall? I'd like to make this as clean looking and functional as possible.

 

Thanks again! Really appreciate this forum!

-Rob

[Son of Marty]

Yes a dist block would clean that up nicely make sure to get one thats large enough t handle more than the anticipated load and then run a large wire jumper from the starter to the dist block or visa-versa. You can also remove the starter bracket just ahead of your shorter starter to clean things up a bit.

[John76]

17 minutes ago, All Day said:

Should I buy a distribution block of some sort that I can attach to the firewall?

My vote would be "yes".

Looks like the PO tapped the starter to power all the extra "stuff".  Not a pretty sight!

[mgben]

You definitely can clean things up with a distribution block.

I like @calw cal's idea for a junkyard repurpose. You see below he feeds to the top from battery then a large fuse to the starter (I presume) and 3 fat wires can lead to fuse blocks or backfeed from your alternator.

Though with your trunk mounted battery your "Megafuse" should probably be back there I would not want an unfused short in that long run to the front.  Though my MGB etc do it unfused but OEM is well clamped.

How many feeds do you need in your engine bay for fuse blocks? So the starter will have 2 or 3 items; Battery, distribution block fat wire, 

and Alternator fat wire (6 ga?) to the starter or your distribution block depending on how things look tidiest.

You can junkyard dive for your fusible links and panel like Cal or buy a VW style new.  Choices are endless. 

Look at my first pages' post vendor for Remote Battery kit and just do your own thing with parts you google. 

If you search the FAQs on battery relocation you get some good pics and ideas.

(some like the E30 parts one do have broken pic links)

 

 

 

Edited October 20, 2021 by mgben
added link

[Son of Marty]

I agree that all remounted batterys should have a cut off switch and a large enough fuse to guard against a dead short close to the battery. I run a small wire with a 1 amp fuse bypassing the switch for the clock and radio presets the reason I use a 1 amp for that is there is not enough juice being passed to run the car if hot wired.

[tech71]

1 hour ago, mgben said:

You can junkyard dive for your fusible links and panel like Cal or buy a VW style new.  Choices are endless.

A distribution box from a later BMW can be an option if you happen across the right car at the junkyard. Think my stuff came off a 98 5 series, probably many models years had something similar. Sturdy, well isolated and protected with a decent number of pick offs available. Got the box and battery cable for about $30 3 years ago.

I used a fuse integrated relay for my fan.

Judging by the shambles you are dealing with I suggest you give the trunk mounted battery install a thorough looking over.

Sooner than later?

Edited October 21, 2021 by tech71

[calw]

33 minutes ago, tech71 said:

A distribution box from a later BMW can be an option if you happen across the right car at the junkyard. Think my stuff came off a 98 5 series, probably many models years had something similar. Sturdy, well isolated and protected with a decent number of pick offs available. Got the box and battery cable for about $30 3 years ago.

I used a fuse integrated relay for my fan.

Judging by the shambles you are dealing with I suggest you give the trunk mounted battery install a thorough looking over.

Sooner than later?

 

The mega-fuses and bus bars for mine came from the trunk of an E39 (late 90's 5 series) but I don't recall which specific model.

they are mounted on a thick scrap of G10 epoxy board (think PC board) with another piece backing it up to make certain that +12V and Ground won't become one.  The 200A mega-fuse was used to connect the in-trunk battery to the car in the E39, but I didn't worry about that since the battery's under hood within inches of the distribution block. (one concern with remote batteries should be the possibility of a short to ground on the long lead from trunk to engine compartment)   I've got it connecting the battery to the starter.  200A is very likely overkill but you run what you brung (or found at the junkyard) and it'll keep the starter from burning down the car. The other three smaller mega's connect the battery to underhood/cabin/trunk users of power.   Haven't had to replace any of them but have several spares of each in the tool kit just in case...

 

 

 

 

[Son of Marty]

Years ago when I first moved the battery to the trunk on a 8'f morning about as cold as it gets in Seattle I measured something in the area 270 amps for a second or 3 with a cold engine and oil so as most of these cars don't get driven as daily drivers in the winter calws 200 amp fuse should be good maybe go to a 250a if you can find one that fits. As for fusing a remote battery in the first place regardless of routing and clamping you need to take into account accident damage ETC. The best fire extinguisher you can have is one you never need to use. 

[Tommy]

Also starter post as distribution block can be made look nicer by connecting the small wires to one larger cable shoe and nice wrapping. Or running one thicker wire from starter and splicing them in the loom. Sure, fusing the different circuits is always good idea but sometimes clutter free outlook is more important. Be sure to make good connections and protect them well especially if they are hidden!