Mystery items in Engine Bay

[Caffeine_Gasoline]

Hi Squad,

 

In looking over this new to me 74 02 it appears the previous owner made some modifications under the hood that I’m trying to understand.  What I’ve figured out is that much of the emissions equipment was removed, such as charcoal canister and  trunk mounted evap tank and both lines that run from tank to front of car (blue and clear) along passenger inside frame have been removed.  As such I’m also finding a few unused wires and capped vacuum lines and I want to ensure these are no longer needed.  I appreciate your guidance in advance.

 

First picture is of two vacuum lines that have been cheaply capped coming off what I assume is a valve that is plugged into an electrical connector.  I assume this went to the deleted emissions equipment?  If so can I just removed the entire valve unit or will unplugging the electrical connector throw a light?

 

 

 

Second picture is black wire with female connector that is loose near the ignition coil.  Does this have a place where is should go?

 

 

Third picture shows two separate loose wires with female connectors.  One is brown wire abs the other has two black wires into 1 female connector.  Any idea what these are for?

 

Fourth and fifth picture is a green wire with small black female connector coming off rear of engine/firewall.  Any idea where this should go?

 

Final picture is of an open harness near drivers side headlights /battery that appears unused?

[Carlos_M]

A lot of those empty electrical connectors are for accessory items.  If you look through the FAQ and locate the wiring diagram for your car you'll be able to find the color of the wire and determine what it should/could connect to.

 

Carlos... 

[Stevenc22]

Yes, your emissions equipment has been partially removed. The unused solenoids and extra wiring near the fire wall can ripped out. The wiring harness will have some extra connectors in it that are unused for things like fog lights or tii fuel pump. 

[visionaut]

1 hour ago, Caffeine_Gasoline said:

will unplugging the electrical connector throw a light?

No CELs or codes here. lol

Pretty sure last one is wired-in Fog/Driving Light connector.

 

And the bell things are emissions doo-dads (technical term).

 

Is your car Automatic? The extra wiring around the coil/dizzy might be that if not emissions…

 

Also search for John76’s wiring sketches -- his emissions one it way betterer than the OE diagram.

[Son of Marty]

The connector above the battery is indeed for the seldom (atleast in N America) fitted aux lights, the relays on the fire wall are bypassed and can be removed, your smog wirering should all be in the same wire sheath the sheath was at one time blue but the colors may have faded.

[Conserv]

23 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

The connector above the battery is indeed for the seldom (atleast in N America) fitted aux lights, the relays on the fire wall are bypassed and can be removed, your smog wirering should all be in the same wire sheath the sheath was at one time blue but the colors may have faded.

The blue conduit was certainly used, to carry emissions wiring, on 1975-76 cars. But I don’t know if the blue conduit was used on 1974 cars. In my mind — simplifying, no doubt — I view 1975-76 U.S. engine compartments as distinguished by fan shrouds, coil on right inner fender near the radiator support, windshield washer reservoir mounted on top of brake booster (because the coil “took its spot”), and… blue conduit. I’m happy to remove blue conduit from my 1975-76 “short list” if that’s a 1974-76 thing.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

[Conserv]

The un-occupied rectangular connector above the battery — once nearly clear — is, as others have already reported, the factory feed for auxiliary lights. Square taillight cars actually have two of these: one, left of the radiator, for driving lights; the other, right of the radiator, for fog lights. (I might have the sides reversed!)

 

They are, in fact, triggers for relays. The fog light connector is only powered on low beam and the driving light connector is only powered on high beam. I use them and love them. Why? I  don’t drive with fog lights on unless it’s foggy. And I don’t drive with my driving lights in places where high beams would be inappropriate. When I’m in the car at night, I virtually always activate the driving light pushbutton. But the driving lights do not actually illuminate until I engage high beams. Given I’m not quite ready for LED’s (or even Xenon’s) on an ‘02 — I’m getting there, but slowly — the combination of old school high beams (Cibie Z Beams) and driving lights (Cibie Series 45) is pretty darned good… ?

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

[johnny02]

36 minutes ago, Conserv said:

The un-occupied rectangular connector above the battery — once nearly clear — is, as others have already reported, the factory feed for auxiliary lights. Square taillight cars actually have two of these: one, left of the radiator, for fog lights; the other, right of the radiator, for driving lights. (I might have the sides reversed!)

 

They are, in fact, triggers for relays. The fog light connector is only powered on low beam and the driving light connector is only powered on high beam. I use them and love them. Why? I  don’t drive with fog lights on unless it’s foggy. And I don’t drive with my driving lights in places where high beams would be inappropriate. When I’m in the car at night, I virtually always activate the driving light pushbutton. But the driving lights do not actually illuminate until I engage high beams. Given I’m not quite ready for LED’s (or even Xenon’s) on an ‘02 — I’m getting there, but slowly — the combination of old school high beams and driving lights is pretty darned good… ?

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

Can one get the relays to use these for fogs/drivers on the late cars?  Do you have pics of what it looks like in your car?   Thanks- John 

[Caffeine_Gasoline]

Thank you all for the quick feedback!  Beers all around!

[visionaut]

58 minutes ago, johnny02 said:

Can one get the relays to use these for fogs/drivers on the late cars?

The late models with dual Aux Lighting taps use your existing high & low beam relays, paired up ala Steve’s high/low beam circuit explanation. Earlier cars employ only a single factory relay, so adding relays to add lights is also common.

 

On cars with two: the drivers side is white-violet, and the pass is grey-white. The white-violet is also on the cars with just one. (so the grey-white goes to the later-only high beam relay.)

 

Steve's pics will tell…

 

Tom-too

[Conserv]

20 minutes ago, visionaut said:

 

Steve's pics will tell…

 

Well, maybe not… ?

 

Here’s what I have in the ‘76’s photo album — car is currently one state over. On the left side, where there are too many wires, the harness is wrapped as it passes the battery’s corner, and the connector is now within the wrap — I think.

 

One of the two additional relays, the fog light relay, occupies the originally-open slot on the standard square taillight four-relay rack. The other new relay is mounted directly to the inner fender just below the four-relay rack.

 

The first photo unfortunately shows nothing of the fifth (driving light) relay. The second photo shows the connector to the right of the radiator, with its white and gray wire now powering that fifth relay.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

[Conserv]

On 5/25/2022 at 2:53 PM, johnny02 said:

Can one get the relays to use these for fogs/drivers on the late cars?  Do you have pics of what it looks like in your car?   Thanks- John 

The relays we used on my ‘76 are the same relays my car has had since new for the horn, low, and high beams. During some window of time, ‘76’s used ugly tan-gray plastic-case relays, the same as some early e21’s. The plastic cases age to various other shades of tan-gray. ? Many other square taillights used round metal-case relays. They all did the same thing and you can find period examples of the various original relays used on ‘02’s. Collect more than you absolutely need, they do occasionally fail. At this point, however, with five matched relays on the ‘76, I am, sort of, carrying a spare… ?

 

And, obviously, new relays exist which can handle the same functions. But I don’t have a ready reference, as I use “classic” relays on both ‘02’s.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

[John76]

Attached is a sketch of the emissions system for all '75 (50-state) cars and the '76 California cars.

Your '74 car did not have an air pump, diverter valve, or check valve for air injection. It did have the same EGR system that continued with the '75 cars (and the Calif. '76). Those two dome-shaped electro-valves in your first picture controlled the vacuum to the EGR control valve (the red hoses) and the vacuum to the throttle dashpot (the white hoses). You don't need these if your smog stuff is gone.

The original '74 distributor had only vacuum retard, so disregard the black electro-valve controlling the vac. advance in my sketch.

The single black wire with connector in your picture #2 normally connects to the Coil (-) terminal. The other end goes to the Speed Relay located on the firewall behind the brake booster. Not needed since you don't have the white electro-valve or the dashpot. Your speed relay can also be removed but make sure the wire terminals are wrapped with tape to prevent grounding. See attached sketch of the dashpot.

The two black wires to the female connector near the distributor is the original black wire to the Coil (-) and the Tach. This plugged into the distributor condenser/points. If the brown wire is actually brown...it is a ground and may have connected to the #85 terminal on the choke relay. If it is Brown/green, then it is for the oil pressure switch. If it is Brown/black, it connects to the EGR relay terminal #85.

The green wire with small black connector is probably Green/blue (look closely). If so, it connected to the thermo-start valve on the original Solex carb and is not needed.

 

 

[Caffeine_Gasoline]

3 hours ago, John76 said:

Attached is a sketch of the emissions system for all '75 (50-state) cars and the '76 California cars.

Your '74 car did not have an air pump, diverter valve, or check valve for air injection. It did have the same EGR system that continued with the '75 cars (and the Calif. '76). Those two dome-shaped electro-valves in your first picture controlled the vacuum to the EGR control valve (the red hoses) and the vacuum to the throttle dashpot (the white hoses). You don't need these if your smog stuff is gone.

The original '74 distributor had only vacuum retard, so disregard the black electro-valve controlling the vac. advance in my sketch.

The single black wire with connector in your picture #2 normally connects to the Coil (-) terminal. The other end goes to the Speed Relay located on the firewall behind the brake booster. Not needed since you don't have the white electro-valve or the dashpot. Your speed relay can also be removed but make sure the wire terminals are wrapped with tape to prevent grounding. See attached sketch of the dashpot.

The two black wires to the female connector near the distributor is the original black wire to the Coil (-) and the Tach. This plugged into the distributor condenser/points. If the brown wire is actually brown...it is a ground and may have connected to the #85 terminal on the choke relay. If it is Brown/green, then it is for the oil pressure switch. If it is Brown/black, it connects to the EGR relay terminal #85.

The green wire with small black connector is probably Green/blue (look closely). If so, it connected to the thermo-start valve on the original Solex carb and is not needed.

 

 

 

You sir are the man!  Thank you!

[Caffeine_Gasoline]

3 hours ago, John76 said:

Attached is a sketch of the emissions system for all '75 (50-state) cars and the '76 California cars.

Your '74 car did not have an air pump, diverter valve, or check valve for air injection. It did have the same EGR system that continued with the '75 cars (and the Calif. '76). Those two dome-shaped electro-valves in your first picture controlled the vacuum to the EGR control valve (the red hoses) and the vacuum to the throttle dashpot (the white hoses). You don't need these if your smog stuff is gone.

The original '74 distributor had only vacuum retard, so disregard the black electro-valve controlling the vac. advance in my sketch.

The single black wire with connector in your picture #2 normally connects to the Coil (-) terminal. The other end goes to the Speed Relay located on the firewall behind the brake booster. Not needed since you don't have the white electro-valve or the dashpot. Your speed relay can also be removed but make sure the wire terminals are wrapped with tape to prevent grounding. See attached sketch of the dashpot.

The two black wires to the female connector near the distributor is the original black wire to the Coil (-) and the Tach. This plugged into the distributor condenser/points. If the brown wire is actually brown...it is a ground and may have connected to the #85 terminal on the choke relay. If it is Brown/green, then it is for the oil pressure switch. If it is Brown/black, it connects to the EGR relay terminal #85.

The green wire with small black connector is probably Green/blue (look closely). If so, it connected to the thermo-start valve on the original Solex carb and is not needed.

 

 

 

You sir are the man!  Thank you!