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Tii brakes need an eyeball!


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OK, that's not the best picture of that area you can put your eyeballs on it, so if your OK I'm Ok. Back to your O/P question I would imagine the whole tii brake and strut combo would run around 3k bucks, not worth it IMO.

Edited by Son of Marty

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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Car sat in a shipping container from 2009 best I can tell from the previous seller. Had the wrong fuel pump, no air box, fuel tank all mucky. Changed all the lines, boiled tank, corrected fuel pump and actually got the kugel apart and freed up…car started right up. Bled the brakes and drove it around the block. It stops ok for the neighborhood but not great…

 

so I ordered some pads after seeing how thin they were…and discovered all this! Previous owner is a faqer and didn’t know either. I think the drivers rear has a leaky cylinder but not enough to drop pressure from my bleeder over time. 
 

Local friend suggested calling Terry Sather for parts and just go get em in Austin to save shipping. 
 

Should I just go 320i brakes?

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That car needs a new brake system, period. Mine did- the only original brake parts on it now are the hard lines. Where you go from there is up to you. I personally am very happy with the braking power provided by the stock brakes, I personally think that the only folks who need big brakes are the people who race these cars. You'll probably be plenty happy with a stock setup, especially if you get a set of Tii front strut housings, rotors, and calipers. 

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Yeah you are looking at rebuilding the whole system so that makes it decision time, to replace what you have would be the cheapest but changing over to the 320i brakes while it will cost more probably not all that much more than replacing with stock, but it's been awhile since I've bought brake parts. How hard are you planning to drive the car? 

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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24 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

Yeah you are looking at rebuilding the whole system so that makes it decision time, to replace what you have would be the cheapest but changing over to the 320i brakes while it will cost more probably not all that much more than replacing with stock, but it's been awhile since I've bought brake parts. How hard are you planning to drive the car? 

 

Not hard at all…weekend garage queen for sure. I’m more thinking price vs originality vs quality of braking. Do you have to have Tii struts for 320 upgrade for example. If I’m buying rotors and calipers no matter what, if skipping original Tii struts and hubs saves money with upgraded system…score. 

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Why not do this       80-83   320i frt hubs, std 2002 inner& outer wheel brgs, std 2002 hub seal.  77  (only 1 year ) 320i vented rotors and the allen head hold down bolt.    Use 85 Volvo girling calipers and pads ( straight bolt ) on with a set of teflon brake hoses        This way you can still use your std 2002 struts, gives you a bit bigger brakes with vented rotors    All bolt on     and girling calipers from Rock Auto dirt cheap

 

Thanks, Rick

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The premium from memory is the strut tubes themselves and hubs, the rest is available from the usual vendors, if you could get the tubes and hubs from a wrecked car the rest would be straight forward.

I refreshed my Tii brakes a couple of years ago, it’s a very good system in standard form, as much as it pains me to say, If you have a Tii it’s worth getting it right, they are starting to get valuable.

There are good options for non Tii cars wrt brake upgrades, I guess it depends on what you want to do with the car.

btw my moneys on a poorly removed engine for the notch damage..

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14 hours ago, SydneyTii said:

 

… btw my moneys on a poorly removed engine for the notch damage…

 


+1

 

That’s how I’m voting, too!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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One thing to keep in mind is that if you stick with the standard tii brake setup, you'll be able to still run 13" wheels.  I believe that if you modify those, then 13" wheels are no longer an option.  That's only if 13" wheels matters to you or not.

 

As far as the rear brakes go, I wouldn't bother changing to the larger 320i rears if you stick with the standard tii fronts.  I changed the rears to the 320i setup on my 73tii and it changes the front to rear balance of the brakes and I didn't like it.  I ended up switching the rears back to the standard setup.

 

Now if you go with the vented setup in the front, then the 320i rear drums make more sense to balance the bias between the front and rear.  Also, one little tidbit that often gets overlooked is that even with the standard 230mm rear drums, the tii used slightly larger rear wheel cylinders than standard 2002's.  I can't remember the size off hand, but you can look them up on realoem.com.  

 

Edit:  I had to look it up...

 

tii rear wheel cylinders 17.46mm #34213460120

standard 2002 rear cylinders 15.87mm #34211101760

 

Good luck with your tii,

John

Edited by JohnS
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'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey Hal

 

quick question. Assembling struts. The lower dust shield bolts. Listed as m6 x 12 on Maximillian …bought new ones and I cannot get those size bolts to thread in without forcing and the bolts that were on the non Tii struts will not work either. Any ideas?

 

 

image.jpg

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17 minutes ago, Highnote1 said:

Hey Hal

 

quick question. Assembling struts. The lower dust shield bolts. Listed as m6 x 12 on Maximillian …bought new ones and I cannot get those size bolts to thread in without forcing and the bolts that were on the non Tii struts will not work either. Any ideas?

 

 

image.jpg

Do you have a thread chaser? If not, buy a set and chase everything and clean threads before assembly. Next time you take it apart it will be easy.

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72 02

73 02 tii

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