How hard should it be to put drum back on.

[Highnote1]

Rear drums on Tii. All new stuff from blunt. How hard should it be to get new drum over new shoes. Pretty sure everything is on right and adjust nuts are in the best place for the least resistance. 
 

Driver side was tight and will not turn with wheel by hand and passenger side I am having to really wack with rubber mallet. 
 

thought this would be the easy part!

 

 

[tech71]

19 minutes ago, Highnote1 said:

Pretty sure everything is on right and adjust nuts are in the best place for the least resistance. 
 

Does that include the parking brake cables? They need to be backed all the way off.

I always place the new shoe into the drum and check for full contact, many times there will be a gap in the center area indicating the shoes need to be arced.  That apparently vanishing technique also helps drums slide on easier.

 

Edited June 3, 2022 by tech71

[Highnote1]

I did not do anything to parking brake except have it off in the car and then rehook onto new shoe. It seemed loose!?

 

What did I miss!

[tech71]

Take a course flat file and file a little off the outer edges of the brake linings Thats budget brake arcing.

Pic is from an Alfa forum.

[tech71]

18 minutes ago, Highnote1 said:

It seemed loose!?

May not be the same thing as backed all the way off. With all new shoes and drums you really need to adjust the parking brake anyway so loosen up the double nuts on the  P brake cables... a lot. 

[Highnote1]

Gonna be tough to get back off!!

?‍♂️?‍♂️

[paulyg]

Did you change the flex hoses? 

 

If not, I will guarantee you that the problem is that the wheel cylinders are seized in the "on" position, with the pistons pushing the shoes out. This happened to me when I set out to change the brake shoes on my '02. Hose closes off between the body hardline and the trailing arm line, fluid is stuck there, wheel cylinder gets stuck on, brakes drag for a bit, wear down, owner continues driving in blissful ignorance for decades, wheel cylinder rusts out and seizes due to lack of actuation.

[Highnote1]

New cylinders that I just put on today…so in this case I don’t think it’s that. But I should change those too!

[paulyg]

In that case, post a picture of what the shoe assembly looks like under the drum. I presume you're aware of the terrors of the w spring?

[John76]

Here's a pic of some things to double check.

Make sure the cylinder pucks are seated in the brake shoe slots, and that the harp is not backwards (preventing release of the parking brake. Also check the swivel rivet on the p-brake. I had one that was too tight and would not release the brake.

 

[Highnote1]

For sure…the hooks are hooked outside in…would that make that much difference? I  put it back together the way I found them. 
 

before pic
 

 

Edited June 3, 2022 by Highnote1

[paulyg]

It looks like the tab on the shoe on the right is not seated properly in the slot in the wheel cylinder piston. 

[Highnote1]

3 minutes ago, paulyg said:

It looks like the tab on the shoe on the right is not seated properly in the slot in the wheel cylinder piston. 

That’s a before pic…all the old stuff. 

[Highnote1]

Question in case I got the upper spring holder thing backwards…

One side has a whole fork and the other side has a notch cut out. I did the notch cut out end towards the back of the car where the e brake lever is…is that right?

[paulyg]

That sounds right. The whole assembly should feel kinda loose on the backing plate before you put the W spring on. Maybe try putting the drum on without the spring to identify the issue.