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Bmw 2002 tii red coil for sale


Pier82

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Hello to everyone, after a little sign of life the engine (and the spark form the coil) seems to be dead . Now i need for a new coil, everyone says the Bosch red coil is the best for tii but nobody in the word sells it, does anyone here have one to sell? or can someone give me a valid alternative? thank you

 
 
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I tried to do some research: I got to this point: on rogerstii there is the Bosch 00 013 coil in the catalog as a replacement upgrade to the so-called 'red coil' which has become nowhere to be found. Well, even here it is exhausted but looking for the same replacement coil with google I came across this advertisement where it is available and declares it officiently compatible. Is anyone able to confirm me? If it turns out to be compatible, does it need to reset the Ballast? and what kind? Thank you

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Botch stopped painting their coils some time ago-

I guess it got too expensive to have more than one color

of paint kicking around.  For a while, they had a colored sticker...

 

Just about any coil will work. 

If you use a Botch coil with a high primary

resistance, you can bypass your ballast, if you have it.

I found that coil also wanted lower secondary resistance,

so a low- resistance rotor and non- resistor wires.

 

You don't say what the rest of your ignition is.  If it's stock,

with points and condenser, I'd stick with a stock- type coil.

A '-tronix' module is essentially points, but they don't wear.

 

All that said, coils are pretty durable- I've replaced hundreds of plug

wires, dozens of caps, rotors, points and even -tronix modules,

and I think I've replaced ONE coil that MAY have been intermittent.

(it was also really rusty, so I was prejudiced against it to start)

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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3 hours ago, Pier82 said:

I tried to do some research: I got to this point: on rogerstii there is the Bosch 00 013 coil in the catalog as a replacement upgrade to the so-called 'red coil' which has become nowhere to be found. Well, even here it is exhausted but looking for the same replacement coil with google I came across this advertisement where it is available and declares it officiently compatible. Is anyone able to confirm me? If it turns out to be compatible, does it need to reset the Ballast? and what kind? Thank you

i think it's pretty clear that i use Google Translate because i'm from Italy! I hope you understand what I write :D

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50 minutes ago, TobyB said:

Botch stopped painting their coils some time ago-

I guess it got too expensive to have more than one color

of paint kicking around.  For a while, they had a colored sticker...

 

Just about any coil will work. 

If you use a Botch coil with a high primary

resistance, you can bypass your ballast, if you have it.

I found that coil also wanted lower secondary resistance,

so a low- resistance rotor and non- resistor wires.

 

You don't say what the rest of your ignition is.  If it's stock,

with points and condenser, I'd stick with a stock- type coil.

A '-tronix' module is essentially points, but they don't wear.

 

All that said, coils are pretty durable- I've replaced hundreds of plug

wires, dozens of caps, rotors, points and even -tronix modules,

and I think I've replaced ONE coil that MAY have been intermittent.

(it was also really rusty, so I was prejudiced against it to start)

 

t

 

Yes the engine is absolutely stock, I bought my tii 1 week ago and i don't know is story. I know only that in two days KF belt broke than points and / or capacitor and now coil...... I read somewhere that with the red coil I have a strong spark and consequently better torque output also in stock engines. If you say it's not real, i believe you and i search for a stock coil because I don't want to go crazy for nothing

Edited by Pier82
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As Toby said, coils are coils--the only two real variables are voltage (6 or 12) and whether they have an internal resistor or not.

 

Round taillight 2002s (68-73) came with Bosch black coils that required an external resistor--that ceramic thing just above the coil on the inner fender.  Square taillight cars (74-77) came with coils that have a resistance wire (the blue wire running to the coil) that takes the place of the ceramic resistor on earlier cars.  Both resistors (ceramic and wire) come into play when the engine is running, limiting the coil voltage.  For starting, the coil gets its full 12 volts.

 

And as Toby said, coils rarely fail.  If you have a no-spark situation, begin with the spark plugs, and trace the system back to the distributor after insuring your coil is actually getting 12 volts when the ignition is on.

 

mike

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this shows that i still have a lot to learn about the old engines, in fact i checked and as you said there is no voltage coming to the coil ... the fuses are ok, there is no resistances near the coil, can i try add power directly to the coil to test it? what can be the problem?

 

Edited by Pier82
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If you do end up having to change your coil, you need to make sure that the resistor matches the coil that you're using.  The "so called" red coil requires a 1.8 ohm resistor.  The "so called" black coil requires a 0.9 ohm resistor.  And the "so called" blue coil doesn't require an external resistor.  So, if you switch to a blue, you need to bypass the resistor.  I say "so called" because these Bosch coils have changed colors over the years and are now silver with a sticker on them that says what type of resistor matches the coil if it needs one at all.  Both of my tii's came stock from the factory with black colored coils that were labelled as needing a 1.8 ohm ballast resistor.  So some folks would say they were the "red" type coils even though they were painted black.  Confusing hey?

 

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'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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1 hour ago, Pier82 said:

this shows that i still have a lot to learn about the old engines, in fact i checked and as you said there is no voltage coming to the coil ... the fuses are ok, there is no resistances near the coil, can i try add power directly to the coil to test it? what can be the problem?

 

Yes you can try running a temporary jumper wire from the battery positive to the coil positive, just don't leave it on with the engine off or you'll fry the coil.

 

I would suspect the ignition switch or wiring from it is bad since power comes directly from it to the coil.

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Just now, Pier82 said:

this is fantastic!!! :D :D:D Following the wires of the coil under the dashboard I find this key switch!!! it is an hand-made anti-theft device that cut off the power of the coil........16553189602402419559088515339590.thumb.jpg.c56252454be47b27dc9b946841cf5f69.jpg

now it's working but the minimum range oscillates by 200 or 300 rpm. Maybe that's normal, it's the first time I've seen the engine running without big problems

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That is really good news.  If you don't mind, I'm sure many of us in the USA would love to see pictures of the engine bay on your car and also what year it is and possibly the VIN.  We're always interested in seeing the European versions of the 2002tii.  Glad you got it running.   Good luck,

John

'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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