Help needed. No start after I...

[Scottjeffrey]

1974 Base Model. The other day, my temp gauge started moving when braking, turning on lights or using the turn signal. It might move a little or all the way to the top. I removed my instrument cluster today to check the ground strap I affixed to the temp and fuel gauge posts years ago. All looked fine. After checking this, I can't start the car. Nothing when I turn the key other than the two red rights at the top of the temp and fuel gauge, accompanied by the temp gauge going all the way up.  Nothing at all at the starter. When I turn the key one step from off to the little circle before Fahrt I get a whining noise behind the dash it seems. The parking lights are also not coming on now. When I activate the emergency flasher, the green blinker light comes on and the large relay under the dash to the extreme left clicks repeatedly.  When I push my cigarette lighter in, the two red lights on the temp/fuel gauge go on but no heating of the lighter element. All fuses are fine. In case it is relevant, when the car is running ( before today, lol), I can remove and reinsert the key into the ignition). I do not have a clue as to what is wrong. Stared fine without any problems except the temp gauge movement when brake or blinker or lights engaged.

Sincere Thanks,

Scott

Edited July 22, 2022 by Scottjeffrey

[Mike Self]

When you reinstalled the instrument cluster, did you firmly seat the multi-prong plug into the socket in the cluster?  Is your extra ground strap for the fuel and temp gauges grounded to the car's body somewhere?  

 

In reaching under the dash to R&R the instrument cluster, it's easy to dislodge wires on the back side of the ignition switch, so check them too.  

 

And when you said you "checked the fuses" did you actually remove those that are involved in the inop systems, check the fuse ends for wear and corrosion, and then check the brass clips for corrosion.  Wiggling the fuses doesn't always clear up a corrosion problem.

 

Let us know whatcha find for further long-distance diagnosis...

 

Mike

[Scottjeffrey]

38 minutes ago, Mike Self said:

When you reinstalled the instrument cluster, did you firmly seat the multi-prong plug into the socket in the cluster?  Is your extra ground strap for the fuel and temp gauges grounded to the car's body somewhere?  

 

In reaching under the dash to R&R the instrument cluster, it's easy to dislodge wires on the back side of the ignition switch, so check them too.  

 

And when you said you "checked the fuses" did you actually remove those that are involved in the inop systems, check the fuse ends for wear and corrosion, and then check the brass clips for corrosion.  Wiggling the fuses doesn't always clear up a corrosion problem.

 

Let us know whatcha find for further long-distance diagnosis...

 

Mike

Hi Mike, Hope you and yours are well. The ground I installed went to the car's body via a screw. I left it off after I got into the starting problem. Nothing changed. Will recheck the ignition switch in a couple of hours, have to do my day job from three to five as well as a cleaning of the fuse prongs and installing some new ones.

Thanks as Always,

Scott

Edited July 22, 2022 by Scottjeffrey

[Scottjeffrey]

Mike, I did firmly seat the multi prong connecter.

[tech71]

This has been said so often that it borders on cliche but might as well say it again.

Check/clean your electrical grounds, big one from battery to chassis, big one from chassis to engine, tab with all the brown wires near relays and alternator to engine

[TobyB]

Do you have spark?

 

If you short the wire to the tach, you won't...

 

t

 

[dlacey]

Yep same two points: Your original issue & symptom are a ground issue, but likely a ground by the battery

Secondly, the black wire behind the cluster that plugs on to its own terminal behind tacho - if that gets shorted then coil wont operate.

[Scottjeffrey]

31 minutes ago, dlacey said:

Yep same two points: Your original issue & symptom are a ground issue, but likely a ground by the battery

Secondly, the black wire behind the cluster that plugs on to its own terminal behind tacho - if that gets shorted then coil wont operate.

 

52 minutes ago, TobyB said:

Do you have spark?

 

If you short the wire to the tach, you won't...

 

t

 

While I have 12v at my starter, it isn't doing anything when I turn the key so I can't check for spark. Did take readings at various grounds under the hood and they are fine.

Thank You,

Scott

[ray_]

What dlacey and tech71 said.

[tzei]

Try different altenator (and/or regulator if old type remote is in play). That if all earth points are truly 5 by 5 - i mean literally removed, inspected and cleaned!

[Son of Marty]

Read up on the 74 seatbelt interlock system.

[Scottjeffrey]

....

Edited July 22, 2022 by Scottjeffrey

[Scottjeffrey]

1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

Read up on the 74 seatbelt interlock system.

It hasn't worked since purchase four years ago and I removed all the wiring at the seat belt receptacles and it isn't hooked up at the little rectangular box on top of the dash. Car has been perfect regarding the no crank issue and its accompanying no parking lights. I am stumped. Could the starter have failed without warning?

Thanks Much,

Scott

 

[ray_]

What dlacey and tech71 said.

[Son of Marty]

Removing the seat belt senders just fools the box in to thinking no ones in the seat and lets the interlock close the interlock relay can fail giving you a no crank situation.