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Doors Not Flush


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Hi all,

 

I am about to buy a restored 1973 2002 Touring. I just need your opinions on a few things. 

- Have you had these issues with the doors before? (Pictured)
- What is the best website to purchase new parts (Genuine Steering Wheels/ Interior Trim etc)

- What is an accurate VIN Decoder for these cars? IMG_8719.HEICIMG_8716.HEIC

 

Many thanks,
A

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This, from the BMW 2002 Car Club of Columbia, will put you in the general ballpark.

 

WWW.BMWCLASICOS.COM

Adquiere Merchandising del BMW Club Clásicos Colombia Decodificador de la serie BMW '02 Servicios y almacenes de partes BMW en Colombia.

 

If the car was manufactured in late 1973, or later, RealOEM.com might provide a month and year of manufacture if you first select the “Classic” catalogue.

 

BMW Group Archives, however, at no cost, will provide you with the actual manufacturing date and factory color. Email them the VIN and request their data on the car:

 

info.grouparchiv@bmwgroup.com

 

Welcome and regards,

 

Steve

 

 

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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Doors could be due to door seals (new/too stiff) or simply needs adjustment at the door latch. On the latter, maybe the plastic bits are missing/worn.

 

The doors look straight and well aligned horizontally at the window and trim lines. Odd that they bulge more at the bottom than the tops…

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Where we goin’? … I’ll drive…
There are some who call me... Tom too         v i s i o n a u t i k s.com   

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11 hours ago, visionaut said:


… On the latter, maybe the plastic bits are missing/worn…

 


The plastic piece circled in red is often referred to as the “corn kernel”. If it’s missing, the door is almost impossible to latch properly. If these are missing on both doors, it’s hard to say whether the car has a gasket or door alignment issue.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

5CB359A1-81F4-4760-B962-5A794F36EE74.jpeg

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1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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If your "corn kernels" are cooked and turned into popped corn, a fuel hose stub will substitute.  The fuel hose doesn't pop.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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As to not being vertically aligned, look at the FRONT of the door.

If the front also protrudes at the bottom, it's a

matter of shimming the door hinge so the door sits square.

 

However, if the front aligns well, it's been a longstanding problem with

replacement doors that they are twisted- and as you show, need 

relatively straighforward bodywork (cutting and welding the inner panel)

to square them up.  I think there's a 15- year old thread somewhere about

how it's done.

 

Certainly a negotiating point.

 

t

 

 

 

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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If the current owner replaced the door gaskets recently--especially with those available from URO (vs the OEM BMW item) a door that previously fitted just fine...won't due to the new, un-compressed gasket.  The catch plate on the door frame can be adjusted in and out to compensate.  To a point.  

 

My '73 has its original doors, years old gaskets but with the catch plate adjusted inwards as far as it'll go, the door's trailing edge still protrudes a few mm.  Short of ovalizing the mounting holes (or replacing the catch plate) I don't know of a good answer, since the latch assembly (on the door) has no adjustment, and shimming the hinges won't help the door's trailing edge.

 

Anyone have experience with a worn catch plate affecting door alignment?

 

mike

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'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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3 hours ago, TobyB said:

As to not being vertically aligned, look at the FRONT of the door.

If the front also protrudes at the bottom, it's a

matter of shimming the door hinge so the door sits square.

 

However, if the front aligns well, it's been a longstanding problem with

replacement doors that they are twisted- and as you show, need 

relatively straighforward bodywork (cutting and welding the inner panel)

to square them up.  I think there's a 15- year old thread somewhere about

how it's done.

 

Certainly a negotiating point.

 

t

 

 

 

 

4 hours ago, Conserv said:


The plastic piece circled in red is often referred to as the “corn cornel”. If it’s missing, the door is almost impossible to latch properly. If these are missing on both doors, it’s hard to say whether the car has a gasket or door alignment issue.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

6A336084-3B9E-4A05-9E60-DECA2AAC6E19.jpeg

Hi mate,
Thanks for that. By chance I got a photo of that and it looks as if it has been replaced with a substitute at some point. 

Front Left Door.JPG

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A couple of weeks ago, I bought a pair of the corn kernels from Pelican.  $2.25 each plus $3.75 shipping.  Worked fine. 

 

WWW.PELICANPARTS.COM

Uro Parts Door Latch Buffer InStock Ships Today! $2.25. Call (310)626-8765. May Qualify For FREE SHIPPING. Parts# 51 21 1 809 735 51-21-1-809-735 51.21.1.809.735 51211809735 847603027030. E10, E12, E21, E23, E24, E28, E3, E32 <a href=

 

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Maybe chassis panels (aft the doors) have been worked but not with door alignment in mind hence step. Or the doors are repaired without test fitting.

 

If there is no bondo (or maybe just a little) door (frame) can be twisted/bend to fit better - a few mm step can be cured. This really should be done before any pre paint work imo.

 

 

2002 -73 M2, 2002 -71 forced induction. bnr32 -91

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In my case the PO installed new door gaskets that were stiff and wouldn't compress.  I pulled off the door latch side of the gasket and trimmed the inner edge back by 1/4" to 3/8" and then glued it back on.  That allowed the door to fully close and it didn't compromise the seal at all.

 

Murph

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