Hood stop/bumper - proper placement

[PapaG]

I got a replacement kit for the hood latch hardware.  Just making sure that when adjusting, the plastic stops that come down on the sides fit like roughly like in the photo below. Right? Or not? The wear on the originals doesn't really help and I trust nothing about the car as it came to me anyway. The service manual shows it coming down but not an example of how the two parts interact once everything is closed up. 

Edited November 6, 2022 by PapaG

[visionaut]

You want the white stops to friction-fit against the angled sides of the 2-bolt metal flange. Properly fit, they don’t rest on the fender tops.

Edited November 6, 2022 by visionaut
Typo

[Mark92131]

Watch this Koogleworks video at the 7 minute mark to see how these pieces interact.

 

Mark92131

 

https://youtu.be/vl50JrGMIhE

[TobyB]

Nope, you want that metal clip to press against the sides of the bumpers, with the bumpers resting on the fenders.

That way, the bumper thread adjustment sets the height, and the metal clip fine- tunes the side- to- side.

 

t

does not do video.  Nor Floogleworks.

[visionaut]

If the stops sit on the fenders it wears on the paint. You still use the bumper thread adjustment to control height with them wedged against the flanges.

[02Les]

6 hours ago, visionaut said:

You want the white stops to friction-fit against the angled sides of the 2-bolt metal flange. Properly fit, they don’t rest on the fender tops.

 

Mr Dubois does not agree....

Hood installation and adjustment.pdf

 

Actually, I like the idea of the Stop resting on the top edge of the angle bracket. The BMW Repair Manual almost, sorta kinda, suggests that. One of those grey areas.

[TobyB]

Quote

If the stops sit on the fenders it wears on the paint

Yes, it does.

 

When that is an issue, you will be buying a new BMW, Ja!

 

These things are the VW Bug of the BMW line- 'Crank 'em out, Fritz, ve are making der profits in der volume, not der panel fitment!"

 

Seriously.  Look under the dash of a Neu Klasse, a 2002, and a Beetle, and 2 of those things are very similar.  Then there's the NK...

 

There's some cool Teflon with adhesive bonded to it that makes a very nice pad to sit the bumper on when 

you've repainted your car and don't fancy to be replacing it with an X2002.  It's almost clear, and durable as hell.

It also makes sense to use it where the hood hinge comes down, as the hinges come REALLY close to the tops of the fenders.

 

t

 

[Mike Self]

5 hours ago, TobyB said:

There's some cool Teflon with adhesive bonded to it that makes a very nice pad to sit the bumper on when 

you've repainted your car and don't fancy to be replacing it with an X2002.  It's almost clear, and durable as hell.

Did that several years ago, as much to eliminate squeaks as paint wear, but it does both.  Erly cars had rubber bumpers instead of the hard plastic white ones, and they worked much better as they compressed a little, and some silicone grease on the rubber end prevented both paint wear and squeaking.  Alas, that style has been NLA for many years.

 

mike

[visionaut]

You guys go ahead and mar your fenders (and bang your hood on the stops when closing it ).  Just because it’s the way Franz might’ve done doesn’t make it the only way that works. The method I’ve described also works great - try it.

 

If your hoods all aligned and closes well, and your currently using the ‘stops on the fender’ approach - do this: raise the stops on both sides about 1/8” (off the fender), then push the slotted 2-bolt flanges outward a bit over 1/16”. Now close your hood - you should see the stop now engages the angle faces on the flange coming down instead of the fender top, and ends up sitting proud of the surface, and yet your hood is ‘down’ the same amount as when it was sitting on the stops. ( It actually takes a little more trial-and-error to find the exact sweet spot). It also should no longer ‘bang’ when closed as the angles act as a spring to cushion the drop (and better secure the rear corners of the hood).

 

The angled design of the slotted 2-bolt flange led me to this. If they’re there to just snug up horizontally against the stops sitting on the fender, that tall/wide springy angle face isn’t needed. The rear of the hood doesn’t move that much left-to-right. My method takes full advantage of the flanges angled faces to both cushion hood closures and tension the hood stops when closed as well as keep the stop from marring the fender.

 

I think my method is very similar to the known tip of how to keep the folding arms off the fender tops by taking advantage of the slotted connection there.

 

Tom-too