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MVP aftermarket turn signal problem


slowbert

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I bought a set of MVP aftermarket turn signals. They are beautiful and solidly made. 
 

However, the electrical connection on the side sticks out quite a ways and hits the inside of the well in the fender. I tried it on aftermarket plus original fender sheet metal and have the same interference problem, but have not found a solution or ideas for how to overcome the interference. 
 

Has anyone solved this problem? 

 

 

D35E91E9-B9F7-45FD-86ED-3ED1D7B61BEB.jpeg

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1 hour ago, slowbert said:

the electrical connection on the side sticks out quite a ways

 

Have you added the wires and measured?

That spring clip connector will substantially compress with the wire installed 

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The spring clip appears to touch the rear of the opening, which would short it out. In fact, the spring clip scratches the inside cavity and there is a gap of maybe 1/8 inch where the screws do not fully seat the unit. 
 

Your are right that the spring clips will not be as extended when they have a wire in them, but I have never been able to get the turn signal fully seated even when the spring clip is compressed. 
 

I have been thinking of designing a different attachment to replace the spring clip. 

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Yes, it will short and the fuse will last about 1 microsecent.  The solution another FAQer did was bend the bracket.  But a better one would be to invert the wire connector if possible. Or do away with the small bulb.   Isn't the big bulb dual filament working as clearance lamp and turn lamp?

@irdave also saw this problem while on a trouble shooting excursion.

Edited by jimk
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40 minutes ago, jimk said:

 Isn't the big bulb dual filament working as clearance lamp and turn lamp?

I dont think so, single filament bulb there only 1 connector.

Bummer, MVP take notice!

1 hour ago, slowbert said:

I have been thinking of designing a different attachment to replace the spring clip. 

Maybe try drilling a hole utilizing the existing insulators  and attaching a short wire (ring connector on one end quick disconnect on the other) with a screw/nut.

Or return it before its unreturnable.

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2 hours ago, jimk said:

 Isn't the big bulb dual filament working as clearance lamp and turn lamp?

 

The original bulb was a dual filament bulb with two connections neatly tucked away.  You can see it in the picture above.

The MVP replacement has two bulbs, each with their own connection.

I am thinking of making a little copper tab that rivets to the plastic piece and is a spade connector for the wire.  I will have to add the spade connector after the wire is run.

Dunno if this will work out or not.

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14 minutes ago, slowbert said:

The original bulb was a dual filament bulb with two connections neatly tucked away.  You can see it in the picture above.

The MVP replacement has two bulbs, each with their own connection.

Early US spec cars (68, 69 and possibly early 70s) with flat lenses came with this same setup--a small bulb for the parking light, mounted just as the pictured reproduction, and a larger, single filament bulb for the turn signal.  Reason:  US cars were required to have sealed beam headlights, while Euro cars had non-sealed beams that incorporated the parking light in the headlight reflector.  

 

You should be able to remove the spring-loaded parking light bulb terminal and replace it with an insulated male push-on terminal, bent to one side.  Crimp a female terminal on the appropriate wire and you're set.

 

But before going through that, try bending the ears on the spring clip 'till they're nearly flat, and then see if it clears the fender.

 

mike

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17 minutes ago, Mike Self said:

But before going through that, try bending the ears on the spring clip 'till they're nearly flat, and then see if it clears the fender.

Thanks for the background on this.  Mine is a '72.

 

I will try bending the ears of the spring clip and see what I can do.  That is a good idea.

 

I'm hesitant to cut into a brand new $425 set of lights...

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35 minutes ago, slowbert said:

I'm hesitant to cut into a brand new $425 set of lights...

I'd also have a chat with the maker/supplier.  For that kind of money, they ought to fit right out of the box...

 

mike

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I think I would try drilling out the rivet that holds the spring connection and removing the spring connection. Add a  male spade terminal on top of the one that goes to the bulb facing the other direction and rivet the whole thing back together. Here is a rough sketch. 
 

03C624C2-C84D-4BEA-8626-940BF726E9E1.thumb.jpeg.a1f9d22d8d2a660efd00c0939bfad3fd.jpeg

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6 minutes ago, Lorin said:

I think I would try drilling out the rivet that holds the spring connection and removing the spring connection. Add a  male spade terminal on top of the one that goes to the bulb facing the other direction and rivet the whole thing back together. Here is a rough sketch. 
 

03C624C2-C84D-4BEA-8626-940BF726E9E1.thumb.jpeg.a1f9d22d8d2a660efd00c0939bfad3fd.jpeg

This is what I was thinking, too.  Exactly.

 

The only real reason why they have the funny spring connectors is that the wires feed through a rubber tube that bridges from the headlight bucket area, through the wheel well, and into the light cavity.  The spade terminal does not fit through all that, but I would rather have it work than be a slave to authenticity.

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12 minutes ago, Mike Self said:

I'd also have a chat with the maker/supplier.  For that kind of money, they ought to fit right out of the box...

 

mike

Agreed.  I'm surprised that @Forrest_KoogleWerks didn't find this problem in his video review of the MVP lights.  And I am surprised that I could not find this problem anywhere on the forum.

 

I tried them in both factory and aftermarket fenders, and both had fitment problems.

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1 hour ago, Mike Self said:

I'd also have a chat with the maker/supplier.  For that kind of money, they ought to fit right out of the box...

 

Like their square tail light lenses with the threaded studs angled so they don't fit?

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