Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Building a 36-1 Trigger Wheel


jaredmac11

Recommended Posts

6 hours ago, jimk said:

I noticed they use the missing tooth H dimension that Electromotive developed eons ago and had the patent for.  The reason has to do with reading the first tooth reliably.  Many homebuilt wheels overlook that design.

That's another reason I didn't go with something bought and decided to diy.

Sorry no link to this document in english but if you go to the bosch motorsport website there might be some documents in english that cover the same topics.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, SteadFast said:

Is there a reason why you're overlooking the IE option?  Used this for my conversion and it was awesome: 

 

 

 

I would like to use AC in my car.  I know its a HP suck, but it makes for a more comfortable drive in Texas summers, springs, and falls... and half of winter.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If anyone has or plans to draw up a design for the 02 cast hub, please let me know.  I think the best option is behind the pulley, to lower the diameter of the wheel a bit and also give flexibility to use intake or exhaust side.  I would like to use intake side so that I can allow room for AC.

 

I am so, so far from a designer but Ill give it a go to see if I can get something a shop can work with.

 

I called a few shops and most were willing, considering that...

1) I have drawings for them to use

2) I can wait 4-8 months lead time.

 

Im going to slap a 32/36 on the car for now but would love to circle back to a reliable drawing that can be applied to the factory hub.

 

I have nothing against 02again or IE options but they are all single pulley set ups without considerations for AC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jaredmac11 said:

I think the best option is behind the pulley, to lower the diameter of the wheel a bit

When the pulley is installed, there is no clearance between the pulley and the case to fit a wheel.

Edited by jimk

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, jimk said:

When the pulley is installed, there is no clearance between the pulley and the case to fit a wheel.

Damn, I thought it would be tight but would work.

 

I have the e21 pulley ready to go but it's too far forward for my 02. 

I wonder if I can make due with it because I've seen other 02 with the e21 pulley (I think) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, jaredmac11 said:

If anyone has or plans to draw up a design for the 02 cast hub, please let me know.

Not quite sure if this is what you're looking for. If not, don't read or look (all mm):

 

tiiKuWeNabe.thumb.JPG.9a1ce37c064e963099c5126e53bf37c5.JPG

 

PB240013.JPG.df3870f2983d69280d75141b5d431de3.JPG

 

I chose the exhaust side for the sensor since I wasn't sure about the influence of the generator's aura on the signal.

 

henn

Edited by Henning
forgot pics
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There were several suppliers with different designs/shapes of the (non/tii) pulley and even they changed during the time.
The outer contour of the pulley from Herzing und Schroth is totally different to the one from Winkelmann und Pannhoff which itself had 17 changes between 1968 and 1979.
One has a 21° taper, the other a 16° which was later changed to 6°
So you'd need to have your pulley first and start from there.
 


 

Edited by uai
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, uai said:

There were several suppliers with different designs/shapes of the (non/tii) pulley and even they changed during the time.
The outer contour of the pulley from Herzing und Schroth is totally different to the one from Winkelmann und Pannhoff which itself had 17 changes between 1968 and 1979.
One has a 21° taper, the other a 16° which was later changed to 6°
So you'd need to have your pulley first and start from there.
 


 

 

This is great intel..  I didnt realize it was so many different pulleys.  Thank you

 

5 hours ago, Henning said:

Not quite sure if this is what you're looking for. If not, don't read or look (all mm):

 

tiiKuWeNabe.thumb.JPG.9a1ce37c064e963099c5126e53bf37c5.JPG

 

PB240013.JPG.df3870f2983d69280d75141b5d431de3.JPG

 

I chose the exhaust side for the sensor since I wasn't sure about the influence of the generator's aura on the signal.

 

henn

I found your drawing last night from another thread and saved it.  Were you able to take this to a machine shop and have them fab something up based on this drawing?  Per uai's insight, my pulley is going to be different from yours and many others so maybe my goal of finding a drawing that would be suitable is defunct.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jaredmac11 said:

I found your drawing last night from another thread and saved it.  Were you able to take this to a machine shop and have them fab something up based on this drawing?  Per uai's insight, my pulley is going to be different from yours and many others so maybe my goal of finding a drawing that would be suitable is defunct.

This is the tii hub, so the same I use as as a base. But as mentioned not suitable for AC 
The second reply to this thread is probably what you should aim for

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, jimk said:

When the pulley is installed, there is no clearance between the pulley and the case to fit a wheel.

Just thinking - The crankshaft seal can be set in the case bore at various depths to avoid wear rings on high mileage crank pulleys.  If the seal were to be set at the maximum depth, then the face of case forward of the seal might be machined off enough to gain space for a 1/8" thk toothed wheel fit and save the hub AC pulley sheeve.  A 1/8" thick wheel is enough for a Hall effect or a 1/2" VR sensor.

Refer to the attached. Disregard the sensor bracket.

Engine Mounted Bracket 01.JPG

Edited by jimk

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, jimk said:

Just thinking - The crankshaft seal can be set in the case bore at various depths to avoid wear rings on high mileage crank pulleys.  If the seal were to be set at the maximum depth, then the face of case forward of the seal might be machined off enough to gain space for a 1/8" thk toothed wheel fit and save the hub AC pulley sheeve.  A 1/8" thick wheel is enough for a Hall effect or a 1/2" VR sensor.

Refer to the attached. Disregard the sensor bracket.

Engine Mounted Bracket 01.JPG

 

I had a similar thought, 1/8" teethed wheel. That is what is on the pulley hub for the e21 pulley from my motor (e21 b18) 

 

Do you happen to know if the AC pulley is the inner most?  Is that middle pulley even used?

 

My 02 pulley looks very similar to that but it does have a small step on top of the inner most pulley. I have a biiiit more clearance which should make more room (I just slid the pulley on and haven't cranked it down yet, so maybe I dont have the room I think I do.)

PXL_20221222_180113903.jpg

PXL_20221222_180148630.jpg

Edited by jaredmac11
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jaredmac11 said:

Do you happen to know if the AC pulley is the inner most?  Is that middle pulley even used?

Yes, the innermost (closest to the engine) is used for the AC compressor belt.

The middle pulley is for the air pump on cars equipped with air injection.

If not required for smog, ditch the air pump and use the middle pulley edge for a trigger wheel.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, John76 said:

If not required for smog, ditch the air pump and use the middle pulley edge for a trigger wheel.

The teeth have to stand proud of adjacent magnetic metal.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why not change the Bracket and the pulley of the AC so you can use the second from the front for A/C and have enough space for the Trigger.
Or (what I first intended to do) fit two Photoelectric Barriers into the distributor that allow you to skip the trigger wheel on the crank completely - but one of them must be pretty good due to the very little space, the second could be for cam sensor.
Pic from 

WWW.AKI-ELECTRONIC.DE

Verteiler, Ersatz, Umbau, kontaktlos, Lichtschranke, 123

spacer.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or go with flywheel? I got my 60-2 from TTV. Sensor bracket around timing aperture.

 

1st version I made was diy oe f/wheel and 60-2 circle sourced from MB Sprinter dual mass f/wheel. Sachs mfx 200 clutch.

2002 -73 M2, 2002 -71 forced induction. bnr32 -91

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...