Building a 36-1 Trigger Wheel

[Henning]

 

What about adding a 2nd tii pulley behind the pressed-on ring? And the trigger wheel behind or in front of it? From the seal/chain cover to the ring there's way more than an entire inch for additional pulley and wheel what should be plenty I think.

Some machining has to be done and maybe the compressor has to be moved somewhat to flush the pulleys but wouldn't be this the easiest way?

And yes, the teeth have to be proud of the pulleys but not much more. Mine is so big that I have to remove the pump pulley for taking out the assembled hub.

I've never been to a machine shop since these require a data file for the cnc robby. For converting a drawing to a file they carge extra. I would have a buddy of mine do this before.

 

henn

 

 

 

[jimk]

4 hours ago, uai said:

Or (what I first intended to do) fit two Photoelectric Barriers into the distributor that allow you to skip the trigger wheel on the crank completely

The ECU tuning software would need the ability to apply filtering to the signal to dampen the jitter that is inherent in the 02 distributor drive system (cam drive chain, distr drive gear) or the rpm indicated (which affects fueling and ignition especially at low rpm) will not be stable. 

60-2 is not necessary in a versatile ECU, 36-1, 24-1 as far down as 4 teeth.  Of course the fewer the pulses per engine cycle, the less accurate the ignition in delta rpm condiions.

[jaredmac11]

On 12/23/2022 at 4:52 AM, tzei said:

Or go with flywheel? I got my 60-2 from TTV. Sensor bracket around timing aperture.

 

1st version I made was diy oe f/wheel and 60-2 circle sourced from MB Sprinter dual mass f/wheel. Sachs mfx 200 clutch.

That sounds and looks great.  Something tells me its a bit cost prohibitive to buy one outright, but if I get to time for a lightened flywheel, this could be the answer. 

[ExpensiveHoby]

On 12/22/2022 at 11:08 AM, jimk said:

Just thinking - The crankshaft seal can be set in the case bore at various depths to avoid wear rings on high mileage crank pulleys.  If the seal were to be set at the maximum depth, then the face of case forward of the seal might be machined off enough to gain space for a 1/8" thk toothed wheel fit and save the hub AC pulley sheeve.  A 1/8" thick wheel is enough for a Hall effect or a 1/2" VR sensor.

Refer to the attached. Disregard the sensor bracket.

Couldn’t you just get a competent machinist to cut a 36-1 pattern into the OD of the inner v-belt flange of the AC pulley? Then smooth out the edges and make sure you AC compressor alignment is correct to not eat the belt. 

[jimk]

22 minutes ago, ExpensiveHoby said:

Couldn’t you just get a competent machinist to cut a 36-1 pattern into the OD of the inner v-belt flange of the AC pulley? Then smooth out the edges and make sure you AC compressor alignment is correct to not eat the belt. 

I don't think that would work.  A v belt pulls by friction between the belt and pulley on the sides of the sheave, not the bottom of the groove.  The belt would either slip easily or be chewed up.

[calw]

Any belt slippage would be disruptive to timing also.

 

One could imagine a different pulley with a taller side and built in notches well away from the belt's path, but it's only imaginary until one is built.

[uai]

On 12/20/2022 at 11:28 PM, uai said:

I made a 36-2 design that will use the tii hub and bolts on.

done

[jimk]

Glad to see you recognized the needed missing tooth profile.  Many wheels are not suitable for a VR sensor with the wrong missing tooth.