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Dyno'd My Car


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My car was in for some frame rail repair, and while I was picking it up, I had an opportunity to dyno it on a Mustang Dynamometer for shits and giggles (no tuning, etc).

 

Here are the numbers at the wheels. This is a stock M10 with dual Weber DCOE 40s, and about 35 deg timing all in. Was going to post a video and the chart, but my phone crapped out, apologies.

 

It's worth mentioning, my AFR leans out a bit past 4500 RPM. Most likely a sizing issue with the main jet, correct? I'm going to pull them this upcoming week and report back on their number. I also do not have a fuel pressure regulator yet.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.82eb78986a4758e5df7c85e045c48683.jpeg

 

image.jpeg.79ede3170f320d0d4efe395df9109db7.jpeg

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'72 Metallic Malaga 2002 with a '73 M10 | Dual Weber DCOE 40s | E21 5spd and LSD | Pertronix II

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1 hour ago, NYNick said:

Can you even buy a car today with 100 HP?

Only those with a couple of sparkplugs shorted out :lol:

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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on the other hand, can you buy a car that weighs less than 3000#?

 

As to the AFR, if you can post a graph, we'd be better able to tell 

what in the carb would correct it.  

But.

Usually at high flow, smaller air correctors will richen the mixture without

messing up the lower ranges.  I'd try that first- go down 10 or so, and then

see how it responds.

 

t

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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21 minutes ago, John76 said:

How about HP numbers for a stock motor (pistons & cam) but with the dual Weber 40's??

Properly jetted and timed of course! 

 

 

close to the same.  without other changes to the engine, bolting on sidedrafts really just adds noise.  actually could loose power down low.  not enough air is drawn through the carbs when there is only one cyl per barrel to atomize the fuel correctly.  unless you are running head, cam and exhaust mods too, sidedrafts are just eye and ear candy.   

Edited by M3M3M3
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2xM3

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For the sake of conversation, I also recently had the chance to dyno my 02. Pistons are the later small piano top style that were meant for around 8.5:1 compression I think? The cam appears like it’s a regrind but doesn’t seem to offer much if any more lift than stock. Carb is a 38/38. 
we changed around the jets in the carb, set timing at 35 degrees total and stopped when we believed that the voltage regulator is keeping the car from running at 14 volts and possibly holding back power because of that. In the end making 85 horsepower and 95 torque. 
also the graph from the first session, showing that I’ve basically been driving a vw beetle until now. 

0D94FD17-B401-4063-9634-43C21F29C90F.jpeg

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42 minutes ago, M3M3M3 said:

 

close to the same.  without other changes to the engine, bolting on sidedrafts really just adds noise.  actually could loose power down low.  not enough air is drawn through the carbs when there is only one cyl per barrel to atomize the fuel correctly.  unless you are running head, cam and exhaust mods too, sidedrafts are just eye and ear candy.   


Thank you for your reasoned explanation. I was going to say — mostly

tongue-in-cheek — “90hp”… 😉

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

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1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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